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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am thinking of buying another supra to make into a drag car, nothing crazy just 9-10 sec. Here is my question:

I have $26K to spend,
would it be better to buy a NA and convert it to TT to use most of the money on upgrading parts (ie motor, trans, rearend).

Or

buy a "higher" mileage TT and upgrade what i can with the leftover money?


I am thinking since i would be swapping out for new parts anyways it would be better to go NA, rather then buy a TT and have little money to spend on upgrades. Any input would be appreciated, or how easy of a swap is it (if i did do swap i would be using the F.A.S.T. system with flying lead, so no wiring issues)
 

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Registered
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618 Posts
If you want a drag car, get an NA and put a GTE motor in it. A lot of what differs between an N/A and TT will be things you will change anyway. i.e. turbo, brakes (rear), suspension, diff, trans (assuming you would go auto, like all real drag cars).

Plus you wont be butchering a TT Supra.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I will be going auto (th400, 4-4500stall). I assume if i am running the F.A.S.T. all wiring issues would be taken care of (Dist. vs DIS), TH400 conversion would take care of most of driveline issues, i was going to swap out gears in the rear (does anyone know if doing so would eliminate the need for the TT Diff??) Suspension/brakes was up in the air about.

I think that is most of the issues addressed when doing the swap, is there anything i am missing???
 

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Alpine Hardtopper
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1,096 Posts
I started a reply yesterday, but have to leave before I finished it. Some of my questions are answered already though. Have you put together a spreadsheet of parts you're looking at? When I start the process of picking a project car, I usually create a spreadsheet with the following information for 3-5 different "builds":
Initial vehicle price
All planned modifications
Components necessary for each modification
Distributors for those components and current prices

With your 9 second goal in mind, if you're starting with a N/A car you'll want to buy a GTE engine, SP400 transmission, F.A.S.T ECU, harness, and sensors, an upgraded fuel system, new cams, a nice turbo manifold, expensive wastegate that goes with it, fairly large turbo, IC and piping, boost controller, pretty large exhaust, significant weight reduction, lots of ECU tuning, a TT rear end/driveshaft, roll cage, and drag wheels/tires, and drag shocks/springs.

Other potential expenses might be: New intake manifold, head work, pistons/rods, stroker crank, drag brakes (to fit 15" wheels), fuel cell.

I have no idea if what your plans are can be done with the budget you outlined. Depends a lot on how much work you'll be doing yourself.
 

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1,150+ rwhp club
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4,438 Posts
Honestly off the top of my head, the only thing that you may not replace on a TT would be the rear end. An Auto rear is ~$1000. I don't think selling HIGH milage TT stuff will get you cheaper then a NA.


I say NA.. lighter, easier to find, cheaper.
 

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Alpine Hardtopper
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1,096 Posts
Oh ya...I totally forgot to mention. If you go N/A, you can get a hardtop! Good luck finding a cheap TT hardtop <grin>.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have all my parts written down on. I know 26K including the price of the car isn't great, but its a healthy start. I will be doing all the work myself, so its basically parts cost that i am calculating. I have built a 600hp H22 Accord (hense my sign on) i know honda's are easy to build, but i come from the domestic world originally and have had my hands on a Quick 8 mustang, 1400horse alcohol Camaro, and a 350 Supercharged Blazer (we converted it) so i know what i am doing. The import stuff is relatively new to me, but i am picking it up rather quickly, its all relative.

cord4530:
Thanks for you input man, i appreciate it. I have weld pro stars in my garage that will fit, and some universal parts left over from my honda (ie wastegate, BOV, etc). The SP400 kit comes with driveshaft and linkage so that will be handled. I was going to make the roll cage (done it numerous times in other cars) and as for fuel system, i have an entire spool of Aviation grade braided steel hoses & fittings (had a hook up at McGuire AFB, and its better then automotive grade). I have my parts list and at first i was going to skimp on some stuff just to get going. THings such as a HPF turbo kit, then swap out manifolds, and downpipe for a Full Race, no head work until everything is done, and money is again available, keeping the stock intake for a while, etc. And use the VWR or Boostlogic 4 or 5 inch cat back exhaust.

Basically upgrade the important parts first, Turbo, cams, rods, pistons, rings, tranny, valve train, intercooler, rear. Then go to the finer parts larger valves, port/polish, new intake, exhaust manifold..etc..etc. I know i will need a re-tune on each change after but its better then going into dept.

So i start off with a nice 11 sec ride, then each upgrade get to where i want to be.

It looks like the consensus is to go NA to TT route, which is what i figured. Does anyone know if the TT's pumpkin casing is any stronger then the TT or is it just the gears themselves??

I appreciate your guys feedback and i look forward to anyone else's concerns or input on my idea(s).
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i would like to also say you guys are much nicer, and more knowledgable then the pricks on the honda sites.......just my 2 cents...again i appreciate it and not flaming me with "do a search bs"
 

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Alpine Hardtopper
Joined
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1,096 Posts
No problem. I've found the Supra community extremely supportive. I really like that. I've also come from Hondas and old muscle cars in my past. There is a fair amount of crossover.

Considering the new information you presented, I think $25k isn't too far out there. If you buy a TT engine and rear diff (I believe the whole diff is different, not just the gears...but I've never looked in to it myself), turbo kit, build the lower end of the block (throw some head studs in there even if you don't get to the head work), and buy the SP400...you're going to be well on your way. Considering you have the wheels and can build a cage and most of the fuel system (Still going to need a chunk of money for fuel rail and injectors) With those mods I can't imaging you *not* being in the 11's.

Oh ya..."Go do a search you hoser!"
 

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(overspooled)
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2,836 Posts
hardtop na hi mileage maybe salvage 9-12k
rearend 1k
th400 4-5k
jdm engine swap 3k
fuel system 2k
74-76mm turbo system 4-5k
Head work springs atleast and arp hardware 1k
Intercooler 1200
suspension 1200
150 shot 500
and atleast 2k for electronics and misc stuff...

you could build a quick car on that budget....(9's might be pushing it though ;))
especially if you buy used parts on the forums and can do your own fab work.

On 25k, I think you can probably make a couple passes before you tow it home. There are quite a few costly supporting mods that would need to be done to make this thing reliable. Most people running sub -10's have spent that on their motors and head alone...

but if you're successful, I might have to get another one just for the hell of it!

Good luck...
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i was reading and i came across numerous threads about the stock long block handling 7-8-900whp, i know it probably isnt' too reliable at that level, but has anyone have personal experience with longevity?

If that is the case i can leave the short block along and mod the bullsh!t out of the head (since that is basically where all the power is made) and come pretty close to where i want to be.

While reading, I have also come across +2mm valves , but yet can't seem to find anyone selling them, anyone know anything about these?

If the short block is capable, i would imagine a race port polish, +1 or 2mm valves, springs/retainers, 280 cams, VWR intake, Full Race mani, and T76, 4 inch exhaust, fuel system, ems, tranny and i would be pretty close........any thoughts on this set up?
 
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