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Hi. I'm a bit new and have been finding some things a little confusing. I have a 1988 7MGTE. Mostly stock.

I have heard of the early 1UZ-FE AFM Piping and 550cc injectors. I can pick some 550s up off a 7M-GE-T Build and the lex afm off ebay for a total of like $500 CAD.
I'm just wondering if I have to go with a better fuel pump (walbro 255 in line seems common?) or if I should do anything else with the car (fuel rail, adjustable fuel pressure regulator?).
All I have done to it so far is a 3in turbo back and an apexi intake.
I've had interest in doing this mod for a bit now but I just don't want to blow anything or ruin driving it.

I'm relatively new to the JDM community and am not used to having so much freedom in parts and mods choices (euro guy...), I'm finding it quite overwhelming figuring out how to mod these cars and NOT ruin stuff!

Any input is appreciated, Thank you :)
 

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Hi. I'm a bit new and have been finding some things a little confusing. I have a 1988 7MGTE. Mostly stock.

I have heard of the early 1UZ-FE AFM Piping and 550cc injectors. I can pick some 550s up off a 7M-GE-T Build and the lex afm off ebay for a total of like $500 CAD.
I'm just wondering if I have to go with a better fuel pump (walbro 255 in line seems common?) or if I should do anything else with the car (fuel rail, adjustable fuel pressure regulator?).
All I have done to it so far is a 3in turbo back and an apexi intake.
I've had interest in doing this mod for a bit now but I just don't want to blow anything or ruin driving it.

I'm relatively new to the JDM community and am not used to having so much freedom in parts and mods choices (euro guy...), I'm finding it quite overwhelming figuring out how to mod these cars and NOT ruin stuff!

Any input is appreciated, Thank you :)
The Lexus AFM and 550cc combo are tried and true. Supporting mods recommended are an AFPR, bypassed J tube, fuel pump (Walbro 255 definitely works) and wiring in a relay with new power wire from the battery to feed the pump. Also helpful is a way to tune the fuel delivery such as an HKS SAFR or an Apexi SAFC. It helps to have a wideband O2 sensor and EGT readings to help tune.

I've just finished a rebuild an after installing my wideband UEGO and verifying I was super rich at WOT, went ahead and put the Lexus AFM on with a completely stock fuel system. I saw my idle ratio go up about a point to 15.5-7 and WOT moved from the 10s to 11.5-12.5 but started, idled and pulled great. After those runs I installed the AFPR and bumped up the fuel pressure to return my idle to 14.7:1 and this brought the WOT runs to a max of 12.2:1. I found fuel cut again around 14.5 psi but that was on a hard 4th-3rd downshift so I think there might be a little more left.

However, my target was a conservative 11.5:1 AFR so I could tweak the AFM bypass screw to richen the mixture a little but with good idle and cruising ratios I don't want to mess with it too much. My 550ccs are going to get cleaned and installed soon, along with the Walbro 255 sitting in the garage.

I just wanted to prove this out as I'd read multiple threads arguing for the Lexus AFM/440cc combo. For reference, I adjusted the FPR to TSRM specs and was in the 17:1 range with a very rough idle, so adjusted by ear at first then fine tuned with the UEGO and ended up about 48 psi base pressure, almost 25% increase over factory - makes sense as the AFM is approximately 25% larger as well.
 

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Also, check your local junkyards for the AFM - I pulled the 1UZ housing for $10 and used my stock electronics as they're the same unit.

Edit - reread your post and didn't see anything about your head gasket, so you've either replaced it with a MHG and ARP hardware or will need to factor that in as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Also, check your local junkyards for the AFM - I pulled the 1UZ housing for $10 and used my stock electronics as they're the same unit.

Edit - reread your post and didn't see anything about your head gasket, so you've either replaced it with a MHG and ARP hardware or will need to factor that in as well.
Been scouring my junkyards for a month now. An LS400 popped up and I got there the day the listing was posted and the ing pulled was the AFM housing. Go figure. I think I'll just pull one off ebay for $100, as it seems there's a few MK3 Owners in my city that also want the junkyard deals (W220 Brake Calipers, also gone the day the listing was posted...)

Could you elaborate on the J-tube bypass? What benefit will this give me and well, which J-Tube are you referring to ?

As for the relay/power wire for the pump, is this the "12V Fuel Pump" modification I've seen in a few posts on the forums? (Wiring scares me😢)

I found some slightly used 550cc injectors, an aftermarket fuel rail, and a Aeromotive FPR for only 450 CAD all together! I'll probably snake this deal and find the AFM somewhere. There's a deal on ebay for $100 USD for one, as opposed to a lot of others listed for 250 or so.

Funny you say that, I made a post about my HG and it looks like It's probably toast. Burping coolant from puke tank.

I can't afford to rip the block out for machining to do a MHG properly. I'm going to tear off the head and go accordingly from there but it looks a lot like I'll be going stock HG with ARP studs, unless my head needs a lot of machining and I'll need a MHG to get to stock CR. But we'll go accordingly to the teardown. I plan to take out the engine in a few years anyways for a JZ swap but right now it's not realistic while in school. Here's hoping it's not that bad. I have no leaks or anything, but I think one of my inner cylinder/coolant passage pieces of the gasket is a little blown out.

Please tell me anything that might not be widespread knowledge on these cars when tearing off the head. I will likely make a post with my parts list to double check that I am not missing anything.
(I have done the research but there is a lot of conflicting info it seems and not all lists are the same.)

But as aforementioned, I don't plan on a 7MGTE build, just want some minor mods to keep up with my buddies😉

Thank you for the input! And apologies if any of my questions are stupid. I'm still new !
 

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Look under your intake, between the AC compressor and the intake brace, and you'll see a section of steel fuel line in between two fuel hoses - this is your J-tube, and it's got a small orifice on the downstream side sized to maintain fuel rail pressure in the event your regulator fails. Drilling this orifice out effectively eliminates a failsafe but also allows you to run higher flow rates. If you buy an adjustable regulator kit (say from Driftmotion) it usually comes with a line that bypasses the J-tube altogether. This sends flow from the rail through the regulator and back to the tank through new lines.

The 12V mod for the fuel pump you've seen might be installing a jumper that gets rid of the variable pump voltage feature these cars come with stock. At idle and light load the pump runs at 9V or so for all sorts of reasons, then switches to 12V at high demand. This is one of the simplest things you can do, as easy as installing the jumper to pull codes.

I was suggesting you run a separate wire directly from the battery to the hatch and connecting it to the fuel pump via a four- or five-pin relay. There are plenty of guides on the forums (I'll be using one on Supramania) and it's one of the better tasks to learn wiring on. Very simple with a lot of diagrams makes it easy, I think you could do it no problem.

Typically the original fuel rail has no problems supporting your goals, so I'd use that over an aftermarket rail. Make sure to get the injectors cleaned and flow tested as cheap insurance, and if the Aeromotive regulator doesn't come with the steel braided lines and fittings get a price on those as well, I've heard it's pricey to make them and cheaper to buy a kit. Here's the one I finished installing this weekend:



Do a few tests to confirm a blown head gasket - check for presence of exhaust gas in the coolant, try a compression test to see overall health of the engine, and don't rip things off of the engine without knowing what they are and why they're there (such as your EGR). Composite HGs are fine as long as you do quality work getting everything clean, flat and torqued properly - ARP studs will help quite a bit. Just remember you can't go overboard with the boost, which I guarantee you'll be itching to do.

While the head is out, make sure you drill and helicoil for 7/16 exhaust studs.

After pulling the head in-car on the GE, then deciding the block needed machining, pulling a GTE out of a junkyard, and pulling the GE to swap for the GTE, I'd elect to pull the engine when working on the head gasket - it's a little more work but makes everything so much easier on an engine stand, and you can address a lot of things that you'd normally let go with the engine in-car. Not necessary but preferred.


I don't see the need for the mandatory JZ swap attitude that Reddit and all non-Supra owners seem to have, the 7M is still formidable as long as you address the weaknesses. In most cases, for the cost of a JZ swap done correctly you could build a very nice 7M.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Look under your intake, between the AC compressor and the intake brace, and you'll see a section of steel fuel line in between two fuel hoses - this is your J-tube, and it's got a small orifice on the downstream side sized to maintain fuel rail pressure in the event your regulator fails. Drilling this orifice out effectively eliminates a failsafe but also allows you to run higher flow rates. If you buy an adjustable regulator kit (say from Driftmotion) it usually comes with a line that bypasses the J-tube altogether. This sends flow from the rail through the regulator and back to the tank through new lines.

The 12V mod for the fuel pump you've seen might be installing a jumper that gets rid of the variable pump voltage feature these cars come with stock. At idle and light load the pump runs at 9V or so for all sorts of reasons, then switches to 12V at high demand. This is one of the simplest things you can do, as easy as installing the jumper to pull codes.

I was suggesting you run a separate wire directly from the battery to the hatch and connecting it to the fuel pump via a four- or five-pin relay. There are plenty of guides on the forums (I'll be using one on Supramania) and it's one of the better tasks to learn wiring on. Very simple with a lot of diagrams makes it easy, I think you could do it no problem.

Typically the original fuel rail has no problems supporting your goals, so I'd use that over an aftermarket rail. Make sure to get the injectors cleaned and flow tested as cheap insurance, and if the Aeromotive regulator doesn't come with the steel braided lines and fittings get a price on those as well, I've heard it's pricey to make them and cheaper to buy a kit. Here's the one I finished installing this weekend:



Do a few tests to confirm a blown head gasket - check for presence of exhaust gas in the coolant, try a compression test to see overall health of the engine, and don't rip things off of the engine without knowing what they are and why they're there (such as your EGR). Composite HGs are fine as long as you do quality work getting everything clean, flat and torqued properly - ARP studs will help quite a bit. Just remember you can't go overboard with the boost, which I guarantee you'll be itching to do.

While the head is out, make sure you drill and helicoil for 7/16 exhaust studs.

After pulling the head in-car on the GE, then deciding the block needed machining, pulling a GTE out of a junkyard, and pulling the GE to swap for the GTE, I'd elect to pull the engine when working on the head gasket - it's a little more work but makes everything so much easier on an engine stand, and you can address a lot of things that you'd normally let go with the engine in-car. Not necessary but preferred.


I don't see the need for the mandatory JZ swap attitude that Reddit and all non-Supra owners seem to have, the 7M is still formidable as long as you address the weaknesses. In most cases, for the cost of a JZ swap done correctly you could build a very nice 7M.
I will most likely just bypass that J-Tube with a new fuel line rather than drill it out.

Do you have a link to the one you plan on using? I was up last night researching and was planning on this one:
MKIII Fuel Pump re-wire HOW TO: as it seemed the most straight forward guide I could find (meaning it had pretty pictures).

Thankfully the Aeromotive AFPR comes with the lines off this used car.

Yea I will be getting flow test/cleaning done and new o-rings/seals of course. Hopefully none need rebuilding/replacement... Maybe I'll pass on the fuel rail then, or take it and keep for later potentially.

As for the helicoils, can my engine shop/machine shop do this? I've never heard of helicoiling studs until yesterday in a headgasket discussion. This is done to strengthen the stud's connection to the head/avoid damage to the head? 7/16 inch exhaust studs, will need to remember that.

Yes. We recently moved and got rid of our engine crane/stand. If I take it out, it will only be if I see something that requires a rebuild or machine work. Whether or not I go JZ swap or build the 7M, the engine will be coming out sooner or later. Right now, money and energy is an issue due to being in school and there is no way I'll be able to properly afford an engine out service over the winter, and have time for such a thing. This head probably won't be getting back on for a couple months anyways... we'll see how everything goes. I most likely will wait until I actually see my block face to decide on my plans.

Oh, and a compression test will be done. Hopefully I can get everything back together and replace everything that I need to. I have a feeling it is my head gasket as I have absolutely no other indications of an issue anywhere else.

Thank you again.
 

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Here's the link, I was going to use this one and the one you linked in tandem:


I've helicoiled two heads now, both with a hand drill while the head was off. Just go slow and steady and the aluminum is easy to work with. Helicoiling replaces the smaller diameter aluminum threads with larger steel threads from the thread insert, and the 7/16 stud helps with getting the correct torque (which sometimes strips the smaller original studs). Again, DM sells a good kit with the helicoils, studs and nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Here's the link, I was going to use this one and the one you linked in tandem:


I've helicoiled two heads now, both with a hand drill while the head was off. Just go slow and steady and the aluminum is easy to work with. Helicoiling replaces the smaller diameter aluminum threads with larger steel threads from the thread insert, and the 7/16 stud helps with getting the correct torque (which sometimes strips the smaller original studs). Again, DM sells a good kit with the helicoils, studs and nuts.
Will definitely be picking up the DM kit.

As for the wiring, when you say "in tandem," do you mean you plan to use the link you provided as guidance for how to run wires through the car to the battery, and then the link I provided to wire up the fuel pump relay and such? My apologies for seeming like a complete newbie, but I know next to nothing about wiring and electrical stuff...

I don't have huge goals right now. I planned to get coilovers, brakes and even paint before doing any engine/power upgrades, so I think a stock style HG will work fine for now. I've kept up on my maintenance in all corners of the car and it was essentially perfect with a few old car quirks. Once I get this headgasket done and get in there and replace stuff, I think everything will be good to go for modifications.

I will be making a thread with all my links and parts I plan to get for this headgasket job, just to double check and make sure I have everything needed/recommended, and maybe provide other Supra owners with some help if they experienced the same that I did with the mismatched information across forums. I know it's a topic that has been heavily covered but I have yet to see an up-to-date list with links to parts and part numbers all in one place. I've spent a total of 7h looking these past few days.
 
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I knew next to nothing about the Supra's wiring or in general really but several nights with the TEWD and the fact that I needed to figure it out to make the 1990 harness work in my 89 helped. I'll be using both in the way you guessed. Once you sit for a little while tracing where wires go and what they do, it's a lot easier to understand.

While you have the fuel tank out make sure you change the fuel filter too. It's an easy job but took me ten years to get access to it when I swapped differentials a few weeks ago.

Another few things to note - make sure you have an M12x1.25 thread chaser or bottoming tap to chase the holes in the block before you install the ARPs. I used Enginetech upper and lower gasket kits from RockAuto - they were dirt cheap but I had absolutely no issues with any of them, even came with OE style turbo and downpipe gaskets. The composite HG is still sitting in the box but looks exactly like the Felpro I used on the GE rebuild.
 

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Just going to throw my 2 cents in here.

It's been about 15 years since I had a 7m-GTE. I'm all about using a little as possible to get me there.

If you are going down the lexus/550 there are a lot of cons since it only addresses the ability to add 20-30% more airflow before hitting fuel cut. That can be in the form of more boost on the stock turbo or a bigger turbo at lower boost. Regardless, you are still limited to the level of power unless you add other items like fuel control and fuel cut defeats.

I didn't want to mess around with trying to tick the stock ECU with a range of electronics and making a mess of my wiring harness. If this was 10 years ago, I had plenty of success with Emanage, but times have moved on.

Since the biggest blocker here is the stock ECU, I ended up going with a PNP standalone. I chose the MS3 pro from Perfecttuning since I didn't need to replace ANY sensors if I don't want to and can use all the factory sensors. HUGE bonus, because running sensor wires and messing with wiring is a big PIA especially if your wiring is good.

As for upgrades, to meet my 450 WHP power goal, I didn't make it easy, since I had some items to check off my list.

#1 car had to be quite
#2 car should look as stock as possible
#3 car should be reliable

I believe I've achieved all these goals with my build. I've come very close to my target of 450 WHP by hitting 430 WHP @ SIV2020 after the main dyno session going back and fixing my boost and afr's.

My mods are very tame compared to the open cutout dumps I used to have when I was 20 something. I have created a stock like driving car with more than double the power.

HKS 3" turbo sport exhaust - Very quiet but also restrictive
3" Downpipe with elbow
3" Carb compliant Magnaflow CAT from a GM truck - Not great for flow but better than stock but also do not smell like exhaust all the time which is great.
Spector drop in Air filter on stock airbox - People claim you get huge gains from intake, I beg to differ, all you do is suck in hot air. The worst part of the stock intake is the filter it's self. Get a high flow filter and you probably 85-90% the same as a cone filter.
Silicon intercooler pipe replacement (ebay) - Stock will blow up around 15-20 psi easy.
Walbro 450 - A must, stock pump ran out of fuel at 325 WHP during my testing with 850CC injectors
Flex sensor - Run E85 when I can and jack the boost up...
Cut the Jpipe at the end to remove the restriction
Perfect tuning MS3PRO standalone - no more fighting the computer.
850CC injectors - Have older style low Z injectors, maybe newer ones would behave better for idle, but idle is not horrible at 800 RPM.

I participated in the track lapping day, dyno day, drove there and home, and didn't run into any problems. (small problem with fuel pump under 1/2 tank fuel)

While I'm not saying 550/lexus is bad, I'm saying you quickly outgrow it, and everything that goes after it becomes bad. Besides, why upgrade to 550's injectors when you can make easily 400 WHP on the stock injectors. In fact, if I used a fuel pressure regulator instead of replacing my injectors I could have increased the base fuel pressure to compensate for small injectors and probably reached my goals on stock injectors. However, I wanted overhead in case I decided to put a bigger turbo on.

Oh btw, I'm on stock headgasket... I have arp studs @ 80 LBS in there, but I know it's a ticking timebomb so I have an MHG ready to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I knew next to nothing about the Supra's wiring or in general really but several nights with the TEWD and the fact that I needed to figure it out to make the 1990 harness work in my 89 helped. I'll be using both in the way you guessed. Once you sit for a little while tracing where wires go and what they do, it's a lot easier to understand.

While you have the fuel tank out make sure you change the fuel filter too. It's an easy job but took me ten years to get access to it when I swapped differentials a few weeks ago.

Another few things to note - make sure you have an M12x1.25 thread chaser or bottoming tap to chase the holes in the block before you install the ARPs. I used Enginetech upper and lower gasket kits from RockAuto - they were dirt cheap but I had absolutely no issues with any of them, even came with OE style turbo and downpipe gaskets. The composite HG is still sitting in the box but looks exactly like the Felpro I used on the GE rebuild.
Posted the head gasket parts list and credited you.

I swapped my diff and should have done the fuel filter... I will for sure do it with the pump.

Just going to throw my 2 cents in here.

It's been about 15 years since I had a 7m-GTE. I'm all about using a little as possible to get me there.

If you are going down the lexus/550 there are a lot of cons since it only addresses the ability to add 20-30% more airflow before hitting fuel cut. That can be in the form of more boost on the stock turbo or a bigger turbo at lower boost. Regardless, you are still limited to the level of power unless you add other items like fuel control and fuel cut defeats.

I didn't want to mess around with trying to tick the stock ECU with a range of electronics and making a mess of my wiring harness. If this was 10 years ago, I had plenty of success with Emanage, but times have moved on.

Since the biggest blocker here is the stock ECU, I ended up going with a PNP standalone. I chose the MS3 pro from Perfecttuning since I didn't need to replace ANY sensors if I don't want to and can use all the factory sensors. HUGE bonus, because running sensor wires and messing with wiring is a big PIA especially if your wiring is good.

As for upgrades, to meet my 450 WHP power goal, I didn't make it easy, since I had some items to check off my list.

#1 car had to be quite
#2 car should look as stock as possible
#3 car should be reliable

I believe I've achieved all these goals with my build. I've come very close to my target of 450 WHP by hitting 430 WHP @ SIV2020 after the main dyno session going back and fixing my boost and afr's.

My mods are very tame compared to the open cutout dumps I used to have when I was 20 something. I have created a stock like driving car with more than double the power.

HKS 3" turbo sport exhaust - Very quiet but also restrictive
3" Downpipe with elbow
3" Carb compliant Magnaflow CAT from a GM truck - Not great for flow but better than stock but also do not smell like exhaust all the time which is great.
Spector drop in Air filter on stock airbox - People claim you get huge gains from intake, I beg to differ, all you do is suck in hot air. The worst part of the stock intake is the filter it's self. Get a high flow filter and you probably 85-90% the same as a cone filter.
Silicon intercooler pipe replacement (ebay) - Stock will blow up around 15-20 psi easy.
Walbro 450 - A must, stock pump ran out of fuel at 325 WHP during my testing with 850CC injectors
Flex sensor - Run E85 when I can and jack the boost up...
Cut the Jpipe at the end to remove the restriction
Perfect tuning MS3PRO standalone - no more fighting the computer.
850CC injectors - Have older style low Z injectors, maybe newer ones would behave better for idle, but idle is not horrible at 800 RPM.

I participated in the track lapping day, dyno day, drove there and home, and didn't run into any problems. (small problem with fuel pump under 1/2 tank fuel)

While I'm not saying 550/lexus is bad, I'm saying you quickly outgrow it, and everything that goes after it becomes bad. Besides, why upgrade to 550's injectors when you can make easily 400 WHP on the stock injectors. In fact, if I used a fuel pressure regulator instead of replacing my injectors I could have increased the base fuel pressure to compensate for small injectors and probably reached my goals on stock injectors. However, I wanted overhead in case I decided to put a bigger turbo on.

Oh btw, I'm on stock headgasket... I have arp studs @ 80 LBS in there, but I know it's a ticking timebomb so I have an MHG ready to go.
Thank you for your input.

I haven't thought about an ECU at all yet, it seems like overkill for my current plans. I was planning to get fuel controllers and a boost controller, and have my car professionally gone through to optimize everything. I definitely do not plan on any track days or drag strips currently. My supra is just a summer daily that I want a little faster. Like I've said on this thread, electronics scare me.

Here is my modifications plan

3in turboback, resonator and "muffler" (done)
Apexi Intake - Bought it more for the intake sound, wasn't expecting gains (done)

Lexus AFM + 550cc injectors
Aeromotive AFPR
J-tube bypass
Walbro 255 In-tank pump with 12V mod
A boost controller, probably electronic if I can afford it. I'm really only looking for 12-15 psi from the turbo.
AFR + Boost Gauge + Water Temp + EGT (?) Gauges.
Intercooler pipes ( I can buy some used heatwrapped hardpipes for like $100 CAD or so)

I have no idea if my goals are attainable with my plans. Looking at other's cars, it seems like it will be?

My goal for Summer 2021 is at least 300whp. 350 is the ideal goal right now. Once I get the money (IE: Once I'm not in school) I was planning on the bigger and better stuff then.
 

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I'm also with ZaZZn on this, a standalone is the way to go if you're serious about it. Fortunately my W58 keeps me from shooting for the moon so I'll be going with the Lexus/550 combo for now. When the time comes (and it probably will sooner than later), I'll either try MAFT Pro, or the AEM Infinity or MS3. One benefit (restriction actually) to the Infinity is the speed shop around here won't tune anything but Haltec or AEM.

I just got done with the AEM UEGO and boost controller install, wish I had EGT and oil temperature gauges. Which reminds me, I spent a massive amount of time and thought on a remote oil filter/cooler setup (overbuilt it all). Might be something to look into to help with oil supply since you're not going to be shimming the oil pump.
 

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Man 440s on stock ecu can support
13.3 trapping 110 mph on my setup

That's 330-360 whp I estimate

How? Jack the fuel pressure up 15 psi over stock , add a 255hp (that's important bc as pressure goes up flow goes down on a fuel pump) , rewire a new 12v relay and big power wire and BOOM you have shit tons of fuel next tune the car so it's not piggy fat ass rich (not 9:1 like oem is haha). That means you scale the afm signal down and get more overhead

Maft-pro on my car (no afm, using map speed density) supports 15psi on a 56 trim with stock 440's

Just can't ramp into full boost below 4k or you will hit fuel cut

Lots of power available on CLEAN FLOW TESTED 440's !!

Plus without that lex afm you won't blow your shit up via advanced timing everywhere...(wreckless that ur que...)
 

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Just played with my fuel pressure yesterday and blocked off some of the AFM unmetered air with a modified SONIC screw - stock 440s and stock pump - hitting 12psi now and AFRs at about 11.8:1 max as I get into high RPM and the pump starts running out of steam. Had been running without the screw, max AFR around 12.3:1 (little high for me).

The difference - Vf without the screw was at 5V, Vf with the screw back down to 2.5-3.75V. I did lose two psi but got some margin back for the ECU to add fuel if needed. New pump going in soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yea I'm not shooting for the moon currently, even though I do have an R154.

I might look into a standalone. I have absolutely no experience with an ECU, even a stock one. When you mention "plug n play," is it literally plug and play with the stock ECU connections? I assume I will need someone to tune it.

I was working on my car last night, I have most of the wiring harness unbuttoned, and the only things that need to come off are the turbo/manifold, intake runners, and that's it. I haven't found any surprises yet. The wiring harness is a lot simpler than originally thought thankfully. I've labelled all my sensors and most of my vacuum lines. Looking at it right now, it's a complete mess.

My intake and intercooler system is pretty full of oil, my plenum and manifold are completely black... I will be getting the head off today.

The EGR is providing difficulties. for bolt access. What's worst case if I just block off both ends with EGR delete plates and remove the system?

I have no idea how some I'm going to get some of these bolts back on... it's a very busy engine bay. I want to clean it up and remove stuff I really don't need. Does anybody know any components I can get rid of ?
 

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Don't get rid of anything right now, it's all got a purpose. Keep the EGR as it helps to lower cylinder temperatures. I assume you're following some guides online or better yet, the TSRM, so you'll be following the detorque pattern specified.

Also if you got the bolts off, they'll go back on. Gets easier with some practice. Try throwing a pair of nitrile gloves on with a small neodymium magnet in the index finger - helps to get bolts and nuts started when you're doing it by feel.

Some companies (DM included) offer the standalone ECU, a jumper to connect to the stock wiring harness, and some form of remote tuning to get you started. However, for your goals the stock ECU is more than capable of delivering with reliability and safety that aren't guaranteed with standalones (without some serious time and know-how).
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Don't get rid of anything right now, it's all got a purpose. Keep the EGR as it helps to lower cylinder temperatures. I assume you're following some guides online or better yet, the TSRM, so you'll be following the detorque pattern specified.

Also if you got the bolts off, they'll go back on. Gets easier with some practice. Try throwing a pair of nitrile gloves on with a small neodymium magnet in the index finger - helps to get bolts and nuts started when you're doing it by feel.

Some companies (DM included) offer the standalone ECU, a jumper to connect to the stock wiring harness, and some form of remote tuning to get you started. However, for your goals the stock ECU is more than capable of delivering with reliability and safety that aren't guaranteed with standalones (without some serious time and know-how).
Actually haven't been really looking at anything. Just took a quick few glances at the manual every now and then to see.

Detorque pattern for the head? Yes I know how to do it. If you're referring to a detorqueing pattern for anything else, I probably didn't do it.

Having some issues taking the turbo off, it is quite stubborn. There is a metal line, I assume an oil return line?, that doesn't want to come off at all.

This will be quite fun putting back together.
 

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Yeah, detorque for the head.

The oil feed and returns are a PITA but can flex just that little bit needed to remove them.
 
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