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1988 Supra, NA, Auto, 116K Miles
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After a month I FINALLY got my rear window shade and quarter window louvers from these guys all the way in NZ. The shipping was a lot, but they weren't asking all that much for custom fiberglass and looking at their pictures I just couldn't say no. I assume I'm not the only A70 owner that has lusted after these parts so I'm asking to anyone that actually has them:
HOW DID YOU INSTALL THEM?
I'm already planning on taking these parts to a shop for painting because the louvers actually shipped in white (why?) and I'm not sure if sanding is needed or not.
I assume 3M tape is how it's done, but I have serious doubts it's robust enough for how stiff these are. I see in the picture below they straight up screwed on the panels...not sure I want to destroy my car like that if it isn't necessary.

Main reason I started this in the first place is because I was looking for a complete rear window louver and it looks like they were only made for the MKII Celica Supra. It could fit on the MKIII I suppose, but too risky. The two newer options still being made look quite cheap and just not the same.
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I installed my rear hatch shade/visor using double sided tape: Scotch Mount 30LB Extreme. Supposed to be plenty strong so hopefully it doesn't fly off one of these days.

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I've used same as above on my rear window visor on dc5 and rear roof spoiler on my is350, it was on there for 6 straight years and never had an issue with either .just make sure mounting surfaces are clean
 

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1987 MK3 Supra Non-Turbo (Getting 2JZ-GE Swapped)
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After a month I FINALLY got my rear window shade and quarter window louvers from these guys all the way in NZ. The shipping was a lot, but they weren't asking all that much for custom fiberglass and looking at their pictures I just couldn't say no. I assume I'm not the only A70 owner that has lusted after these parts so I'm asking to anyone that actually has them:
HOW DID YOU INSTALL THEM?
I'm already planning on taking these parts to a shop for painting because the louvers actually shipped in white (why?) and I'm not sure if sanding is needed or not.
I assume 3M tape is how it's done, but I have serious doubts it's robust enough for how stiff these are. I see in the picture below they straight up screwed on the panels...not sure I want to destroy my car like that if it isn't necessary.

Main reason I started this in the first place is because I was looking for a complete rear window louver and it looks like they were only made for the MKII Celica Supra. It could fit on the MKIII I suppose, but too risky. The two newer options still being made look quite cheap and just not the same.
View attachment 264494
If you are going to install them with tape, you NEED, not should, NEED, to install them with 3m VHB. For Automotive applications, I like using 3m 5952 VHB personally. It is stupidly strong though, Once you get it on, it is not going to come off without a major level fight. If your worried about the strength, most major OEM's in both the US and Germany have been using VHB to put on stuff like trim moldings and emblems for the past 10ish years, and most of the lip kits that are sold today are stuck on with VHB. I've used it to mount a solar panel on the top of a Volkswagen Van, and it's stayed on at highway speeds in the rain. For anyone who's reading this, who wants an exact shear strength, its 4.4lbs/in^2.

The reason that the louvers shipped in white is that Agile Performance sends out their parts un-prepped, Seemingly directly out of the mold. That's one of the reasons they are able to sell them so cheap, so you do need to sand, fit, and paint them yourself. If you do paint them yourself, which is what I would do, buy a primer that's marked as "High-Build". It'll fill in all the little gaps and pinholes that are left behind from the lay-up process. Once you finish them, post em up!
 

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1988 Supra, NA, Auto, 116K Miles
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you are going to install them with tape, you NEED, not should, NEED, to install them with 3m VHB. For Automotive applications, I like using 3m 5952 VHB personally. It is stupidly strong though, Once you get it on, it is not going to come off without a major level fight. If your worried about the strength, most major OEM's in both the US and Germany have been using VHB to put on stuff like trim moldings and emblems for the past 10ish years, and most of the lip kits that are sold today are stuck on with VHB. I've used it to mount a solar panel on the top of a Volkswagen Van, and it's stayed on at highway speeds in the rain. For anyone who's reading this, who wants an exact shear strength, its 4.4lbs/in^2.

The reason that the louvers shipped in white is that Agile Performance sends out their parts un-prepped, Seemingly directly out of the mold. That's one of the reasons they are able to sell them so cheap, so you do need to sand, fit, and paint them yourself. If you do paint them yourself, which is what I would do, buy a primer that's marked as "High-Build". It'll fill in all the little gaps and pinholes that are left behind from the lay-up process. Once you finish them, post em up!
Thanks a lot for the advice and info, Soupra. I only really trust 3M products to get the job done, though I don't really trust myself with the sanding part sadly. I should do this myself to save money, but I also want it done perfectly and the rear hatch will be a tight fit from the part I was sent. I'm glad to know that the tape is the real deal however, I'll be sure to ask about it at the body shop.
The users in this community never cease to amaze me in their scope of experience and willingness to help! Once I get the work done you WILL be seeing it here.
 

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1987 MA71 R154 Pearl White, Blue Velour
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Also, try to never, ever, drill a Supra to install an add-on. (within reason)

That's just me, but one of the things I'm the most proud of is putting 6.5" 91-92 door speaker adapters in an 87 without modifying the door panel. In short, whatever sound might be blocked by the older door card I could care less vs. cutting up the panel. :D The end result was Fosgate 6.5 mids with tweets up near the mirror bracket, and some subs in the rear, all off an original head unit (Bluetooth to RF cigarette lighter adapter)

In the end, no Supra was harmed in this process lol
 

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1987 MK3 Supra Non-Turbo (Getting 2JZ-GE Swapped)
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Also, try to never, ever, drill a Supra to install an add-on. (within reason)

That's just me, but one of the things I'm the most proud of is putting 6.5" 91-92 door speaker adapters in an 87 without modifying the door panel. In short, whatever sound might be blocked by the older door card I could care less vs. cutting up the panel. :D The end result was Fosgate 6.5 mids with tweets up near the mirror bracket, and some subs in the rear, all off an original head unit (Bluetooth to RF cigarette lighter adapter)

In the end, no Supra was harmed in this process lol
If it's any consolidation, the one on Agile Performances website seems to be a drift car, so it would kinda make sense to screw the panels in. I do wish they sold a full fiberglass set of trim though, maybe if I send them some emails they might consider it. That, and I wish they sold this hood to the United States.
 

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Sorry, A little bit of a thread revival, but still, good news!
Agile Performance said that at some point, they are going to release a full set of trim.
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1988 Supra, NA, Auto, 116K Miles
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
They didn't sound like they were willing to ship larger pieces outside NZ, though. Not a huge deal, but I don't know where else you would get front/end/side trim outside a custom shop.
 

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1988 Supra, NA, Auto, 116K Miles
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for buying NZ made (y)😎
My other car is a Camry too LOL. 94' 71K miles picked it up for under 4K this year.
The power steering rack in my Supra is staring to leak, but I can't tell if it it's just because I put some power steering fluid in there instead of the ATF you are apparently supposed to. Even the autozone comuters steered me the wrong way there.
Hopefully I don't need a new PS rack if that would even fix it.
 

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Snap. Yours has very low miles given its age!!! Mine is a 96 wagon, and heading towards 300,000km....almost half worn in haha

Have you done a full drain and swap back to ATF in your PS rack?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Have you done a full drain and swap back to ATF in your PS rack?
I can't decide if I should have a shop do it, or if a mitypump tool would be enough to suck it all out. I don't want to mess with going under the car and jacking it up.
 

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If you arent comfortable with undoing any hoses and draining the system that way, you can easily suck out the fluid in the reservoir, and refill with ATF, run the engine, then begin turning the steering wheel from one side to the other, to circulate the fluid, and repeat that process until your entire system is full of ATF.
 

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1988 Supra, NA, Auto, 116K Miles
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
My Supra is still in the shop for power steering leaks, sounds like gasket changes for those. New master cylinder and timing belt. Big job, but it's been over two weeks and they don't call back soon at all.

I'll get the shade done after the car is fixed, maybe even tint back and side windows, because I don't know if tinters could do it with the shade in place.

Anyway here is a direct follow up to the screw-on-frame quarter window panel shades job that the original car posted first in this thread had from the owner:

Gyazo
 

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Tint film goes on the inside of the glass, so your window shade installation wont affect the film :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Tint film goes on the inside of the glass, so your window shade installation wont affect the film :)
I actually had no idea it worked like that! That's a huge relief, now I can get the panels on as soon as the car is ready.
 
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