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experiences good or bad please...compared to an safc and emanage blue
thanks
thanks
anyone using a aem fic on their 1jz
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1,768 Posts
FIC = garbage
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Can you give me more than that. Have you used it. Have you used emannage? Please elaborate
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what more do you want? it is garbage. the only thing aem makes electronic that is good, besides their wideband, is their ems, which I suggest going with or the stinger ems.
here is the problem with the FIC, taken from aem's website...
"The F/IC can retard timing from the factory system based on engine RPM and load inputs. This is achieved by intercepting and delaying the outputs from the cam and crank position sensors to the engine- with no adverse affect on applications equipped with variable cam timing."
A device that can only retard timing isn't going to work if you want to make power. You need to be able to advance timing, that is where you can really start making power. That is why a standalone is a better way to go.
here is the problem with the FIC, taken from aem's website...
"The F/IC can retard timing from the factory system based on engine RPM and load inputs. This is achieved by intercepting and delaying the outputs from the cam and crank position sensors to the engine- with no adverse affect on applications equipped with variable cam timing."
A device that can only retard timing isn't going to work if you want to make power. You need to be able to advance timing, that is where you can really start making power. That is why a standalone is a better way to go.
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thanks for the input and link to your point....any others have input or experience...
i would love to do a standalone but trying to build on a budget
i would love to do a standalone but trying to build on a budget
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1,768 Posts
If you are on a budget then, I suggest just going with a safc, wideband, fcd, and maybe a flashed ecu like Mines or Blitz. But at that spending point you might as well go with a stinger ems. It's like $1,200 for the ems and harness.
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i currently have a chipped stock ecu with a afc and a wideband.......so just trying to figure a better plan on a budget
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I tried the FIC with my 2JZ single turbo. It was not reliable at all, kept shutting off the engine when it wanted to. And could not get it to run strong. So I have ordered the AEM series 2 EMS now. Better to go standalone and get rid of the original ECU and piggyback. 
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Stinger 4424? If you're going to spend that much money, get a standalone. You can find these used on the cheaper side.
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I am sorry but I was browsing the entire forum for information on the AEM FIC and came across this post and must clear up some point you made.
First off I have personally seen the the AEM FIC tested and tuned properly with amazing results.
The commend regarding advancing timing to get more power is one I hope everyone ignores as it obviously comes from a well meaning individual with no understanding of ignition in a turbo car. It is common knowledge as far back as the muscle car days that you generally retard the timing 1 degree from stock for every PSI of boost you are running
The only car that advances timing during boost is the Mazda Millenia S edition where they use the Miller Cycle http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miller_cycle
I will be purchasing the AEM FIC if all goes well and doing a good write up on the product.
"If you are on a budget then, I suggest just going with a safc, wideband, fcd, and maybe a flashed ecu like Mines or Blitz. But at that spending point you might as well go with a stinger ems. It's like $1,200 for the ems and harness."
Please also ignore the above comment as well as I myself have a SAFC and a wideband and a BCC. The values you read off of the wideband are okay but take a lot of coordination to see the values match it to a rpm value and then tune the SAFC for a point roughly around that rpm value. Since the SAFC is a beginners tuning device it doesn't have the tuning points that are required to get detailed tuning for fuel which could mean momentary lean or rich points. The SAFC also only changes the signal coming from your MAF, MAP, or Karman vortex sensor. What essentially happens is that the stock ecu thinks that there is less or more air than there actually is and therefore uses a different point in the stock injector map. The even bigger problem with the ECU being fooled into using the "wrong" value in the injector map is that there is an ignition value that is coordinated with the fooled map/maf signal which is also used incorrectly by the stock ECU.
So we are now at the point where we can see that simply fooling the stock ecu is not what we want to do. We need to properly change the values the injectors are seeing and the values that the coil packs are seeing for timing on when to fire. This way the stock ecu actually sends out the proper signal and all we do is modify it +/- a slight amount to fine tune what should be really happening on a modified car.
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1,233 Posts
Well, I got my FIC installed and it been quite a workout.
I had it wired in by one of the best , if not the best, wiring guys down here in SF.
So I drove the car home on the jumper cable. Got home and plugged everything up.
Car ran fine, after I loaded the basic set up file.
So the following day I started the car and all sounded fine, as I was pulling out of my driveway car just dies. I was on my way to the dyno so I plugged up the jumper cable and drove to the dyno. Well needless to say no one could get it to work. I show no rpm signal on the screen. Tested both cam sensor.
And nada. So as of now I am off on the wrong foot.
I think the unit is defective but I am not aem to make that claim. Thankfully I bought at Murry's which they are a big performance shop down here.
Stay tuned..! Also if anyone can offer some insight, will be appreciated.
I had it wired in by one of the best , if not the best, wiring guys down here in SF.
So I drove the car home on the jumper cable. Got home and plugged everything up.
Car ran fine, after I loaded the basic set up file.
So the following day I started the car and all sounded fine, as I was pulling out of my driveway car just dies. I was on my way to the dyno so I plugged up the jumper cable and drove to the dyno. Well needless to say no one could get it to work. I show no rpm signal on the screen. Tested both cam sensor.
And nada. So as of now I am off on the wrong foot.
I think the unit is defective but I am not aem to make that claim. Thankfully I bought at Murry's which they are a big performance shop down here.
Stay tuned..! Also if anyone can offer some insight, will be appreciated.
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not good to hear...im hoping to pick up an eman blue and some bigger inj to make some more power
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yeah no kiddin... stick with the evil you know, I am always told...:soapbox:
Get the E blue. It's a no brainer, leave the wheel reinventing to me...lol.
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I am picking my FIC up on Wednesday afternoon.
drewgo, how far have you gotten and what were the issues you ran into. I will probably be working on getting it installed within the next 2 weeks and hopefully get the car tuned with the 550s by the end of August.
What are your current mods and what are your goals.
drewgo, how far have you gotten and what were the issues you ran into. I will probably be working on getting it installed within the next 2 weeks and hopefully get the car tuned with the 550s by the end of August.
What are your current mods and what are your goals.
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1,233 Posts
installed and ran for a few minutes and that's it. i got it calibrated but all of a sudden just died. Sent it back today so I am S.O.L. for a while......
My set up is good for 700 but more like 600 to be realistic.
I am not discouraging you against it. I recommend you do plenty of research and shop other form or piggy back before going with this. Simply put, there are only a few people who've had success with it. Of which I am not one...LOL
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1,163 Posts
600 here I come. Good luck with your new setup Drew.
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Aristo ecu running sequential injection and with a safc. No timing management just tuned conservatively in mid 11's. SAFC works and will make decent power just don't go crazy with pulling too much fuel so your timing won't retard too much. Looking to go with aem ems later on.
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