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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

My motor is currently under the knife, and I'm wondering about oil passages. What, if anything, needs to be done to them? If something needs to be done, can you specific? Does everyone else just build the motor by constructing the components, and ingnoring the oil passages because they're so good?

Thanks

Eric
 
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The only time anything needs to be done with the oiling pasages is when there is a problem with oil gettin to certain places. I have not heard that this is a problem with the 2JG-GTE Engine. Please someone correct me if I am wrong.

Did your motor fail, because of a oil starved bearing??
 
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U should remove all the balls that Toyota installed out of the motor and clean all the oil passages out thouroughly. anything that you leave in them will find there way into the new parts that you install on the engine. It is not easy to do and most machine shops don't do it but it is the only way to make sure that all the debris is gone from inside the engine.
 

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Sooooooo JDM
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1,221 Posts
Check oil return passages on the rods themselves. I have found that Toyota drills the holes in the rods (it's stepped), coutersinks it and then balances the rods. The problem is that they occasionally (more so then not) balance the rod by removing metal directly over the oil return (this is the hole that passes through the rod bearing). They don't bother to re-countersink the passage. Inevitably this leads to the hole being a smaller diameter than it should be. It could potentially lead to rod bearing failure. Obviously check the mains too, make sure the hole in the bearing line up correctly. On the last two blocks I have done I have also found dessicant beads floating around also. I think I counted 15 in the one I finished up tonight :rolleyes: . Interestingly enough, the dessi packet was OUTSIDE the plastic and not ruptured. I'll get around to taking pics one of these days :)

Ryan
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Cool, I just brought the oil pump we're going to be using to the shop to be blueprinted to the block, and will be chamfering all of the rod bearing oil holes. Anywhere that oil needs to travel through, we're going to make a little bigger to flow the best it can.

Eric
 
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if you are going to open up the oil passages you might want to either trim (very carefully and very little) or pre-compress the spring (to shorten it over all) in the Oil pump that holds the oil pressure check ball

by opening up your passages you are lowering the oil pressure that flows around and, while it has the capacity to flow more oil, the volume of oil will still be the same since the check ball in the oil pump is the actual regulator....and it doesn't know or care what oil pressure is doing elsewhere in the engine

an aftermarket higher flow oil pump would also help in this situation to keep the overall flow velocity high enough to keep everything well lubed

be carefull though if you do increase the oil pressure...you might blow up your oil filter...on a Race Porsche I worked on we installed an external Canister style oil filter that could hold the higher pressure of an upgraded (external) oil pump (150psi) but going that high in a motor not prepped for it can also damage other things (a turbo can not stand those pressures)

on the Porsche engine all Oil passages were bored out and all corners radiused...all check balls were removed.....all ports were retapped...alll bearing surfaces ports were tear dropped and all bearings channeled...and a high pressure Oil cooler was added (as well as a 14 qt capacity dry sump)....and you wouldn't beleive how much smoother the engine ran
 
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