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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 90 Turbo Auto (with manual swap), and ABS, that's in need of a dash harness. I've posted in the WTB section and have had many responses. My question is, will any MKIII dash harness from any year or Model work? Does it need to from an Automatic? Does it need to be from a turbo?
 

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All the dash harnesses are different, but with the right connectors/diagrams you should be able to make it work. You said you have the manual tranny?

I have the dash harness and electronics from an 89 5-speed. I don't think I have a guage cluster for it tho.

What exactly is wrong with yours, where you feel you need to replace the whole thing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My car has never run properly and over the last 3 years it has been slowly built back from frame up. The original dash harness has 50+ crimps throughout it along the side of the climate control and along the Airbag computer. I figured that I might as well just replace the whole thing.

I have a manual tranny installed, but not wired up yet. I plan on still using the Automatic ECU.

What harness do I need? Would one out of the pre-89's work if it was a turbo?
 

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Too many differences between the pre89 and 89+, unless you do some wiring mods.

I'd go with the 89+ auto harness and just leave the ECT unplugged. Is your dash out and the wiring easily accessible? If so, you may just want to patch it up. I promise that it would be easier than replacing the dash harness.

I've swapped mine out a few time and now have a solid 91T/auto harness in there, but swapped the front body harness to match up as well. I have some pics of this weekend, where I extended an engine wire harness. Send me your email addy and I'll send you the pics, so that you can see what I did. For about $35 in wiring, heatshrink, flux/solder, and some patience.. I extended over 60 wires in a few hours. Basically you'd be doing the same, replacing those Fed up sections in between your solder-points.

if you were close by, I'd give ya a hand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Entire car is gutted. No interior, no engine, no panels......nothing. Just 8 gallons of Sound Spectrum Deadener sprayed throughout and underneath. I already aquired a suitable engine wire harness replacement, however, my mechanic really wants me to get an interior harness as well since the current when is cut to shit.

Your probably right. Patching up the current harness might be the best route, but I'm not sure if my mechanic is willing to put in the effort. And unfortunately, he won't let me near it due to "insurance reasons". However, I was planning on extending most the wires anyways. I need to relocate the ECU and Fuse Box to free up the kickpanels for my components.

If you've got pics of the work you did that'd be great. Send them to: [email protected].

Many thanks,

Dov
 

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Buddy thought I had a NA
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no
 

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Hey,
Here're the links to the pics I was able to get from the cellphone. Basically just shows you what I did... I'll try to get better pics of the finished product later. But this should help you. Get your "kit" together and since the harness is still in the car, bring your kit in there and get comfortable. Took us a few hours from start to finish (Satan's was helping ;-).... including all the prepping and heatshrinking the finished product.

Before you start…. Go to Frye’s and get a couple of rolls of some good wire, solder/flux, soldering gun, heatshrink that fits the size wire you get… I got 2 100ft rolls and cut about 75 20” sections and still had plenty left over.

Once you have everything soldered and done, slide the heatshrink over all the solder points and use a blowdryer or heatgun to shrink it. Hopefully you have not made big-ol' globs and the heatshrink slide over it easily enuff. I promise, by the time you get thru, you will know how to twist 'em and solder professionally!! :1poke:


1. Separate the wires in bundles of 10 or so, where you can distinguish individual wires (no same colors in bundles).

2. Cut and strip the car wires.




3. Measure, cut, and strip the new wires (make sure and slide 2 pieces of heatshrink, before stripping both ends). Get enuff ready for the whole job and make sure and COUNT on having some left over. It's okay to have some left over, but not okay if you don't have enuff. Make sure and cut and place 2 pieces (about 1" long each) of heatshrink on each wire.




4. Splice 'em together and solder 3-5 wires at a time, from a bundle. Splice/solder the remaining ones in the bundle and then repeat the same for the remaining bundles of ~10.


 

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Buddy thought I had a NA
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ummm if you are plaing on cutting the ecu wire's and exteiding them i whoudl avise great car in this since some of the wire are shielded and if you chop em you can open up gate way to crap

if any thing add 3 shrike wraps to the shielded wire or use sheild shink wrap

but extenidng the fuse box is fine there no sheiled wire there only at the ecu


wire si knwo are sheiled are


cps
ecu temp
nock

that it
 

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He's patching up dash wiring, so he won't need to worry about that. I did not run into any shielded wiring (yet), only did the ones I had to for now. I also plan to run separate coax to the knock sensors anyways. Just posting up a method for fixing bundles of wiring... tho I figured it'd get some criticism for my choice in wires and process. Just the way I do it... many other ways out there.
 
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