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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i was just about to buy a relocation kit for the battery. it occured to me that it might put a strain on my charging system. does anyone have some info,suggestions,bad/good, advice?
 

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Damn Spaniards
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As long as it is properly installed, you shouldn't have any problems. If it is going to be inside the passanger cabin, I suggest using a dry cell battery because there are fumes that come out of wet cell batteries that you don't want to inhale. You might be able to get away with an Optima since they are supposed to be completely sealed.
 

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Ive never considered it a real option for several reasons:

the large cables add more weight
extra cost for sealed battery
extra cost for battery enclosure
more work than its worth.


Obviously if you want to remove weight off the front of the car which has a real handling benefit, maybe consider going with a lightweight battery instead.
 

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I've been considering one as well... all the fun options almost require fro the battery to go somewhere else. For the 7M, it's nearly impossible to install a FFIM without removing the A/C and the battery. In the 1J and 2J swaps, the battery is in the way of the best route for the IC pipe to go... not to mention you need a place to put the coolant reservoir when you install that [email protected]$$ intercooler (24x12x4).

I didn't wanna do it for all the same reasons twinturbozs says, but with the next 2JZ swap, I am very tempted.
 

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Damn Spaniards
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twinturbozs said:
the large cables add more weight
extra cost for sealed battery
extra cost for battery enclosure
more work than its worth.


Obviously if you want to remove weight off the front of the car which has a real handling benefit, maybe consider going with a lightweight battery instead.
The cable isn't that heavy and it is just as much work as to install an EBC or Turbo Timer. The only thing you really need to consider is the cost/benefits. He didn't ask if you thought it was worth it, just if anyone has had an problems with them.

I have installed them a couple times when I have done SR swaps in a 240SX. Mostly because I had to since the piping for most Japanese made FMICs runs right through the battery location. This is because Japan uses smaller batteries than the US. If weight distribution matters to you or if you are going for great coner ballance I say go for it. There IS a noticeable difference that you just moved 50+ lbs out of the front of your car.
 
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Where's the best place to buy the heavy duty thick gauge cabling and nice gold plated battery terminals and other accessories to relocate the battery to the trunk?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i want to get a bit closer to the 50/50 weight. i also want the room in the engine compartment. i think it is well worth the $100 optima battery and the $100 relocation kit.

i am more focused on handling right now. i realy think its more bang/bling for the buck with my budget. i am going to make my own battery box and mounts so my only cost is the cable and battery...so about $120-130. what the hell else can you buy for that much. ive already got intake, full exhaust, safc, strut bars, springs and struts (in the mail).

i am just worried that the amp draw will hurt the charging system. btw my car is a 83 supra which has a low output alt. i do know that the longer the wire the more initial amp draw. anyone know if this matters?
 

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or u can just go with a lightweight battery. for me relocating the batt to the back is only moving 11 or 12 lbs to the rear so not worth my effort/money
 

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The cable can be purchased from a welding supply house. The ends can be purchased from any car stereo shop.

If your goal is handling or drag racing there is an advantage to relocating the battery to the back. More even weight distribution between the front and back and better traction. It can even change the weight distribution of a car by 1%. Imagine moving 40lbs from the extreme front to the extreme rear.
 

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Boost Dealer
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I actually used a very long heavy duty set of jumper cables that I got for $20. Worked like
a charm! (and way cheaper than the $$ stuff) $15 boat battery box from wal-mart with tie
downs. And a power distibution block from wal-mart for stero stuff, and I already had the
optima battery, total cost $45

Jeff
 

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just keep in mind if relocating the box to the rear of the car that it must have an exhaust vent and be sealed especially if you are part of a sanctioned race body (SCCA, IMSA, NHRA etc). Also don't forget the MANDATORY Kill switch for all those race bodies!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ok, i found some info online about cable size on the ?lignfelter? ( i dont remember how to spell) corvette site. they have a battery relocation kit for the c5 vette. they use 1/0 guage instead of 1 guage wire. they say there is an excess draw on the battery for cold starts,sterio,etc. if it is for racing only they reccomend that you go with 1guage for weight and for daily driver you should go with 1/0 guage to minimize voltage drop.

i trust this info but i am going to look around more 1st!
 
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Does it have to be an optima battery if it sits in a battery box like from summit and has a vent hole on the bottom?
 

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Okay, so let me see if I can get this right.

You can use any battery, so long as you put it in the sealed box, which is being vented somehow (to the oustide I assume).

So I can use my existing battery, get a box, cable, and distribution block/circuitbreaker?

By the way, I'll be using a 2JZ alternator... I believe they push 120 amps, compared to 80 on the 7M alternators.
 
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