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J

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Discussion Starter #1
I just installed an Arizona clutch and an RPS pressure plate. I replaced the flywheel and both bearings and everything else that could be replaced. Upon trying it out I couldn't get it in gear, but I was able to shut the car off, put it in gear, and start it up. It wouldn't creep and I could let the the clutch out and move as normal.
Now I turned the pedal adjustment as far it can go, to depress the clutch as far as possible. With the pedal to the floor, it bangs into gear like the clutch is half depressed, however once it is in gear the clutch doesn't ingauge or start to make the car move untill the pedal is half way out. When shifting it takes a second untill the rpm's drop to make the shift but it doesn't grab again untill the pedal is halfway out.
What I was wondering , is this in anyway normal for this clutch, or well it get better after it breaks in more? I have looked at some old posts on this clutch. Most of them talk about the clutch being installed backwards. The Arizona I got had "flywheel side" written on one one side, and that side is towards the flywheel. I honestly don't remember which side the snout was facing. It ingauges smoothly and there is no chattering or noises. But it is so hard to get into 1'st and I can't get it into reverse without shutting the car off, driving it is a real chore.
I would greatly appreciate any imput or advice anyone can give me.. Thanks
 

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You should beable to get it adjusted prefectly with the Peddle adjustment. I had the same problem with a clutch I experimented with. The difference of a couple turns is huge with that rod. I turned it all the way out till it calasped then, I threaded it back in a turn at a time untill I got the pedal feel I was looking for..Hope that helps.

Matt
 

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I had this problem. Had the disc replaced twice. Had the dealer warranty the hydraulics (new line, new master cylinder, new slave cylinder) and the problem didn't go away.

Then I tried replacing the pressure plate. That fixed it. I had a bad one.

You probably do too.

Andi
 

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I just put this combo in my car about two weeks ago. I didn't have any of the problems you are, but when you get it figured out, expect it to be quite a bit stiffer than stock. It's also extremely grabby to the point of being difficult to back up. Just to give you a reference of what to expect. Mine's not broken in so I can't comment on how it will be later on. The snout goes to the back. Give the adjustment another try like Matt said. Good luck.
 
J

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Its not really how it engages or where that point is. its that when I turn the rod as far as it can go to push that pressure as far as possible, the clutch is still rubbing a liitle bit some how, where I can't hardly get it into gear. Reverse is more difficult because it is geared higher than first. However its fine once its in gear with staying in one spot with the clutch in and is fine with letting it out
 

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JohnHenry said:
Thanks for the info, my hands are still bleeding from the last time I took it apart. Maybe I'll just change the pressure plate, if I do I'm gonna have to loose more money and more blood. Good thing I like that car so much
Well.. it COULD also be the disc.... a warped disc or a warped pressure plate could cause it... or a bad pressure plate spring, etc......

In my case it was the pressure plate, I narrowed it down to that after I still had the same problem after changing discs and hydraulics (basically everything but the pressure plate).

The way I really diagnosed that it wasn't fully disengaging was that I raised up the rear end of the car a few inches, till the tires were off the ground. I started the motor, fully depressed the clutch, and put it in gear..... and the wheels would turn. Not good.... and this was with the clutch pedal adjusted to engage ALL the way at the top.

Andi
 

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JohnHenry said:
Thanks for the info, my hands are still bleeding from the last time I took it apart. Maybe I'll just change the pressure plate, if I do I'm gonna have to loose more money and more blood. Good thing I like that car so much
If it is a bad pressure plate, Rob at RPS should be glad to warranty it for you. If yours is bad it will be the third one I have heard of in the last month.

I am using the AZ clutch and did not experience the problems you are mentioning.

Try adjusting it first. If that does not work, call Rob at RPS.

-pete
 
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Discussion Starter #8
I have the exact same problem. I'm going to call RPS to get it replaced. Hopefully they won't give me any hassle. Thanks for the heads up, guys...this was getting really frustrating.

Sean
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Isn't the clutch disc unidirectional, meaning you have to put it in the correct side facing the flywheel? If it is, make sure of this too. I think I read something about the hub being cone shaped and that it has to go in a certain face first.
 

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Maao said:
Isn't the clutch disc unidirectional, meaning you have to put it in the correct side facing the flywheel? If it is, make sure of this too. I think I read something about the hub being cone shaped and that it has to go in a certain face first.
Read the post. The disc was labeled: flywheel side
He said that's the side he put on towards the flywheel. Probably not the problem.

I sure hope everyone gets these problems worked out with the AZ clutches. I was thinking about getting one, but am know having second thoughts.:(
 

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Ryan P said:


Read the post. The disc was labeled: flywheel side
He said that's the side he put on towards the flywheel. Probably not the problem.

I sure hope everyone gets these problems worked out with the AZ clutches. I was thinking about getting one, but am know having second thoughts.:(
Note that I don't even have an AZ clutch... I have an RPS Stage 3 solid.. but they both use the same pressure plate, and in my case it was the pressure plate that was bad.

Andi
 
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Discussion Starter #12
I'm sending my pressure plate in for repair very soon. I wish there was a way to do this without downtime, but the end result will be worth the week without my Supra. Thanks for the help, Andi.

Sean
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Clutch

i had a similar problem with my 98 eclipse when i put my centerforce dual friction in. it was always notchy when u try to put it in gear and u could never power shift the thing like when it was new. After doing the tranny 4 times i finally got one that worked! the first time the flywheel wasn't stepped correctly; the second time the pressure plate was defective; the third time the actually clutch was defective, one side was bent so it would always push on the flywheel so no matter how much i adjusted the clutch it would still not act right, only when i backed it out all the way did it seem normal but when i did that it wouldn't ever engage above 45k rpm.
just yank that thing out and take a look at it, have everyting checked. Hope i was able to help.
 

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Hey everyone, I brought this thread back to life because I am having the same problem with my AZ/ Wotm clutch with the RPS pressure plate. It's hard to go into 1st and reverse even after adjusting the rod behind the pedal. Did anyone find out what the problem was and how to fix it?
 

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^ Anyone?
 

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Damn, I just put 150 miles on my RPS Carbon/Carbon. Today, it couldn't get into reverse unless the car was shut off and first gear is a bit rough to engage. Is tehre a fix for this? It's impossible I didn't install it properly since all the plates were labeled. Is there a fix?
 
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