AZ clutch question...

5032 Views 74 Replies 17 Participants Last post by silvino, Apr 25, 2002

G

Discussion Starter · Nov 24, 2001

I've installed WOTM 6-puck clutch kit, and have ran into some problems.

The clutch disk was installed following the Toyota Service Manual - taller cone portion of the friction disk towards the front (flywheel).

When I press the pedal, as I'm pressing it, half way down OR up - it chatters (actually more like grinds). Doesnt matter if I'm in Neutral, or in gear (driving). Each pedal travel cycle ends up in grinding noise half way into it.

After talking to Ryan Woon, he said disk installs the other way around, the taller cone (on the 6-puck disk) towards the back of the car (facing tranny). He also said he got only one Supra running properly with WOTM clutch - when cone was facing the flywheel, but that it should be the other way around. Damn thing came with no instructions, how was I supposed to know that?

I am using this with resurfaced stock flywheel.

If you are using the same clutch, how did you install the disk? Any similar sounds/problems?

Thanks.

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G

Discussion Starter · #2 · Nov 24, 2001

I just had this clutch installed last week along with an RPS pressure plate and new stock flywheel. Being the talentless chump that I am, I paid someone else to install it so I don't know which way they put it in.. What I *can* tell you is that it definitely doesn't make any sort of grinding noise. In fact, now that it's broken in, it's quieter and easier to smoothly engage than the stock clutch was. So far I think it's a great setup... hope you get yours sorted out.

-R

Magic

· #3 · Nov 25, 2001

Robin said:
I just had this clutch installed last week along with an RPS pressure plate and new stock flywheel. Being the talentless chump that I am, I paid someone else to install it so I don't know which way they put it in.. What I *can* tell you is that it definitely doesn't make any sort of grinding noise. In fact, now that it's broken in, it's quieter and easier to smoothly engage than the stock clutch was. So far I think it's a great setup... hope you get yours sorted out.

-R

This is the same story I have. I paid someone else to put in my clutch. I have no idea if they put it in correct. Also it never makes any grinding noise. It took a good 800 miles to break in. It was super grabby at first but now I have about 1000 miles on it and it is very very streetable. I seems to hold power pretty good. I will be taking it to the track in a couple weeks and should have more info on how it holds up to high rpm slip launches.

I would switch it around to the install Ryan recommends, he knows his shit.

-pete

G

Discussion Starter · #4 · Nov 25, 2001

Thanks for replying guys.

Did you have it installed by Toyota or a performance shop?

Anyone that has installed it on their own?

TIA

G

Discussion Starter · #5 · Nov 26, 2001

the disk is installed backwards.
i wouldn' drive around like this. the rivets on the disk are actually hitting the flywheel bolts when you release the disk and are being banged up(eating up the rivets in this process) this is causing that horrible metal to metal sound you hear.

G

Discussion Starter · #6 · Nov 26, 2001

Well, that's what I thought as well......BUT.....I got to talk to another forum member, who had the EXACT same noise after installing his WOTM clutch, and his went away after 10 miles of driving. I only drove my car for 1/4 mile, if that, and am hoping it'll go away. His clutch is holding up great after some 1000 miles so far. I have thought about switching the disk around, but he told me he tried that too, and the disk was not allowing for the tranny to attach properly....somethign along those lines. I've installed the disk following the Toyota service manual, and think that's the only way disk will line up.

I was gonna drive it for a while (~ 20 miles) and see what happends.

Javeman, email me privately if you can, tell me what you think.

G

Discussion Starter · #7 · Nov 26, 2001

it's installed incorrectly.
i thought along the same lines as you did and i had to pull the tranny and turn the disk around. It WAS the problem. you can see where the rivets were hitting the flywheel bolts. the rivet hitting the flywheel bolts has a sound that increases the longer you hold the pedal down(if this is how yours sounds. that's the problem).

the reason the noise went away is because all the rivets got ate up and it "self clearanced"

the proper way the disk is supposed to sit is with the snout facing the rear of the transmission.

G

Discussion Starter · #8 · Nov 26, 2001

Hmmm...that makes sense......except that my clutch is quiet when I fully press the pedal, or when it's fully released.....it only grinds when i'm half way up or down with the pedal.....

If I pull the service covers, unbolt the PP and pull it back, will I be able to see potential damage/scratches on the flywheel bolts w/out dropping the tranny?

Thanks!

G

Discussion Starter · #9 · Nov 26, 2001

you should be able to see the damage on the flywheel bolts. they will only be scratch marks as the material used for the rivets on the clutch plate is a lot softer than the flywheel bolts.

theman

· #10 · Nov 26, 2001

the reason you don't hear the noise when your pedal is fully depressed is because you've got the pressure plate far enough away from the flywheel at that point for clearance. And when you have it fully released the disk is moving with the flywheel and PP as one unit, so no more things clipping things as they spin by.
The other dude that had the problem go away is lucky for now...

Also if you notice any chatter when you do get this back to being right without any metal clanging, it's because you had the stock flywheel machined and the weighted dampening has been screwed up.

good luck, hope you get it straight...

Adrocktt

· #11 · Nov 27, 2001

Kean,
How have you liked the WOTM clutch so far? I heard it shatters to all hell when it gives out. Is that true? How is it holding up to the T88? Do you drag with it a lot? How is pedal preassure and driveability? Would you reccomend this over the RPS Stage 3 sprung hub lightened flywheel combo? Thanks!

Adam

G

Discussion Starter · #12 · Nov 30, 2001

Damn, it's 4am EST, just got back from the garage.....flipped the fuckin disk around, and you guys were right, it was hitting the flywheel bolts. There was no serious damage, as I barely drove it. Thanks for all the advice.

PS WOTM disk installs with cone facing the TRANNY, not the flywheel.

theman

· #13 · Nov 30, 2001

No problemo, that's what the forum is for. And you can be glad you caught it so early, unlike the other dude who kept driving it until the nasty sounds went away.

G

Discussion Starter · #14 · Dec 1, 2001

AZ clutch install

I went throught the same shit. I cant believe that this has not been resolved yet! :wtf: All it takes is a little friggen effort to include some instructions with the AZ disc. I waisted a hole day on my back.
If your rivets got a little chewed like mine did...I would suggest that you take a die grinder with a 150 grit sandpaper roll and polish and round over any sharp edges on the rivet heads. This way it lessens the chance of the disc exploding. If not...your still probably Ok...but its not such a bad idea.

Cheers:beerchug:

Adrocktt

· #15 · Dec 1, 2001

Anyone have a response to my questions on the behavior of this clutch? Upward in the post. Thanks

Adam

rpstc

· #16 · Dec 2, 2001

"I went throught the same shit. I cant believe that this has not been resolved yet! All it takes is a little friggen effort to include some instructions with the AZ disc. I waisted a hole day on my back."

RPS sells the same disc for $220.00 and we even put a sticker that tells you which way to put it in.

G

Discussion Starter · #17 · Dec 2, 2001

rpstc said:
RPS sells the same disc for $220.00 and we even put a sticker that tells you which way to put it in. [/B]

D'OH! You mean I just paid $450 for a clutch that you sell for $220???? What's all this then?

-R

rpstc

· #18 · Dec 2, 2001

Robin said:
D'OH! You mean I just paid $450 for a clutch that you sell for $220???? What's all this then?

-R

Did you pay $450.00 for the whole clutch? I am only talking about the 6-puck solid hub disc.

supra400hptt

· #19 · Dec 2, 2001

Rob,

What exactly is this "Arizona" disk? Are you the one manufacturing it? I've heard a lot of good things about it and was planning on going with it and your pressure plate around January. I want to avoid the twin and triples but will need something to handle around 600rwhp that will last and is somewhat streetable. I know it's a tall order. Thanks.

rpstc

· #20 · Dec 2, 2001

supra400hptt said:
Rob,

What exactly is this "Arizona" disk? Are you the one manufacturing it? I've heard a lot of good things about it and was planning on going with it and your pressure plate around January. I want to avoid the twin and triples but will need something to handle around 600rwhp that will last and is somewhat streetable. I know it's a tall order. Thanks.

The AZ clutch is a twist on the RPS Stage 3 solid hub. Our "standard" solid hud 6-puck uses 1/2 composite pucks and 1/2 ceramic pucks. The AZ disc uses all ceramic pucks.

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