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Discussion Starter #21
Okay, I managed some time today to check wiring. Note that I'm using a borrowed old tech battery for now.
Battery power cable to starter looks good and connection at starter is tight. Ground cable to engine block is also tight.
I found the starter relay and pulled it out for testing. Hooked up to power supply (pins 1&3) and heard a click and there is continuity showing between 2 & 4; so relay is good. I replaced starter relay and turned on ignition to check if it will click and it did (twice). The 3rd time, nothing; dashboard indicators are not working also (as well as power seats & power windows).
So, I start checking fuses at left kick panel and engine bay. I found that my 40amp FL AM1 fuse (J/B no 2 next to battery) has blown. This fuse protects the starter relay, alternator TCCS ECU & headlight cleaning motor.
I'm not really wanting to replace this fuse yet since not sure why it blew. I only checked wires and starter relay before the fuse blew.
Anyone have ideas?

My next step is to remove the starter motor; it looks like I also have to remove the engine torque damper assembly since it's in the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Engineer here. Agree it’s a likelihood that the battery internals transiently shorted to some extent. The kind of deformation you’re describing requires temperatures well beyond underhood temperatures during hot day hill climbs.
The car was running 75mph (most of the way) in 100deg F weather for 330 miles before hitting Barstow and cooler weather (85-90deg F). Then another 100 miles or so to my final destination.

I also suspect the wiring to the starter, or even the starter’s internal wiring, could have played a role. Even so far as to initiating a failure that cascaded to your battery. A hot short through the relay (no fuse protection) comes to mind.

In other words, I’d suggest replacing the starter, inspecting/repairing the starter wiring, and a new (any kind) of battery.
Yes, it looks like that's part of my things to do. The previous owner had informed me that the starter was replaced about 8K miles ago, but not sure these days how reliable rebuilt starters are.
Thanks for your feedback.
 

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Fuses are cheap.
Verify that the main ground from the battery to the engine block is clean on both sides. Seen a lot of weird/random issues with car electrical systems due to a bad ground connection.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
This starter removal stuff is becoming annoying, I managed to break off one of my knock sensors when trying to loosen the top mounting bolt. Did more reading on the forums and I'll try extensions & swivels over top of transmission to get to top bolt; the lower bolt looks easy.
 

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I’ve even pulled the trans crossmember so as to let it droop tail-down, making it super easy to get a socket on long extensions to those starter mounting bolts. Makes a big difference just to tilt it down those two inches. Good luck!
 

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I extended the life of my last lead acid battery to 5 years (Advance Auto silver) by surrounding the side that faces the radiator and the back with some left over silver foiled sun shield material. I also cut that stuff up and use it to cover the front of the dashboard where a corrugated sunscreen can't reach. Further, I used some cut up for the rear windows and also lay one on top of the tonneau cover when I'm going to be parked for an extended period. Lastly, I cut one up that fits exactly into the passenger side window to keep the sun out!
 

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Engineer here.
I don't know you, so forgive me if I come across as an ass here, just having a little fun with how this post read in my head.

I have to ask, "how does that line work with the ladies?" If well, I might have to consider going back to school! =P

OldBonus, you asked if the anti-theft computer might have anything to do with the situation. Have you tried resetting it? Last I remember, all you need to do is lock the car with the key from the outside, then unlock again. For good measure, I'd try doing this at both doors. However, if the anti-theft were interrupting the situation, pretty sure it would be more than eager to let you know!
 

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Ha! You’re not wrong about the “lady-repellant” nature of engineers. That is, until you’re in your 40s- then they think a flight test engineer is kinda cool.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
OldBonus, you asked if the anti-theft computer might have anything to do with the situation. Have you tried resetting it? Last I remember, all you need to do is lock the car with the key from the outside, then unlock again. For good measure, I'd try doing this at both doors. However, if the anti-theft were interrupting the situation, pretty sure it would be more than eager to let you know!
Yes, resetting the theft deterrent system was one of the first things I did (and verifying that clutch start switch is working properly).
Locked the car with keys, wait a few minutes then unlock the passenger side and when that didn't work, I re-locked it and waited then unlocked the driver's side (which also did not let me start the car).
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I extended the life of my last lead acid battery to 5 years (Advance Auto silver) by surrounding the side that faces the radiator and the back with some left over silver foiled sun shield material. I also cut that stuff up and use it to cover the front of the dashboard where a corrugated sunscreen can't reach. Further, I used some cut up for the rear windows and also lay one on top of the tonneau cover when I'm going to be parked for an extended period. Lastly, I cut one up that fits exactly into the passenger side window to keep the sun out!
This is the battery insulation kit I'm looking at getting in the future:

 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
I’ve even pulled the trans crossmember so as to let it droop tail-down, making it super easy to get a socket on long extensions to those starter mounting bolts. Makes a big difference just to tilt it down those two inches. Good luck!
I'm getting ready to remove the crossmember to let the transmission droop down; did you also unbolt the center bearing support assembly? I didn't see it mentioned in some of the older posts for starter removal.
 

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Ah, I had previously installed a 1-piece aluminum driveshaft, so I didn’t have to worry about the driveshaft center support bearing.

So you may need to drop that, yeah. Put some paint marks before loosening it! It’s fore-aft location is important to maintain, so mark that carrier bearing assembly‘s location well.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
So, all of my time yesterday trying to get to the bolts using extensions and loosen them from transmission side did not go well for me. This is with letting the transmission droop down and also loosening the center bearing support. Laying down on the garage floor and maneuvering the extensions, etc. just wasn't working and my neck was also giving out.
This morning, I resorted to Plan "B" and finally got it out in about 4 hours.
251943
251944
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
My multimeter is showing some continuity when I connect my probes to end of starter wire (terminal 50) and to engine block (ground). My multimeter is showing 17 ohms.
I'm attaching a copy of starter wiring from TEWD. Highlighted yellow is the wiring I'm referring to.
252120


Does this indicate that my starter wire is shorted to a ground somewhere?
 

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Discussion Starter #37
The B-W wire is coming from ignition switch (Canada only); my USDM wiring is the black wire to starter relay including clutch switch.
Here's the entire starting system diagram off TEWD:
252142
 

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I am sure the battery tray is nice on a stock car, but on a modified one, it just takes up space that you need for anything that is hard-wired to the battery, or to reach your hands in the engine compartment to work on something in that area. I tried putting it back on recently, but just couldn't do it.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #40
The battery tray came from the factory with a plastc jacket that shields it from the worst of the engine bay heat. I've still got mine.
I haven't found that that plastic jacket; the previous owner removed it when installing the Optima battery. The Optima battery is not quite the same size as OEM so it was removed by the PO :(.

I am sure the battery tray is nice on a stock car, but on a modified one, it just takes up space that you need for anything that is hard-wired to the battery, or to reach your hands in the engine compartment to work on something in that area. I tried putting it back on recently, but just couldn't do it.

Al
Yeah, I've been keeping this Supra as close to OEM as possible. So the stock battery location doesn't bother me too much; I just like to insulate it against heat from engine bay during long road trips in hot weather.
 
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