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RIP 86.5 N/A, Hello 90T
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Discussion Starter #1
Well It all started as a little kid I always wanted an mkiv so I've decided to geta FFIM so I can atleast look kindof like the 2j.

Haha just kidding.....


(Here's what I started with)

Anyways I've decided to go with one of RON's FFIM which is the reason for my relocating the battery. I decided to use 1/0 gauge welding cable (positive), the reason for this is 0 gauge battery cable as i've found is something like $4 a ft. If you goto a welding supply store you can pick up 1/0 gauge for around $2 a foot.

So I ran this 1/0 gauge wire through the trunk, behind (under) the black metal bracing for the wooden plank. then I drilled and opened (unibit) a hold behind there to run the wire though that metal opening.


Then fed the wire down and through the little room between the framing and the driver's side rear passenger armrest plastic. Then if you pry up the carpeting you will notice that there is a ducting made for your eletrical wires that run along the edge of the carpeting (near where the bottom of the door comes to the body when closed) there's just enough room but no more than that to fit the 1/0 wire and the wire that's already in there.

(green line represents where the wire is)

that ducting runs all the way through to the front of the car where the fuse block is, run the wire straight up and drill open (unibit) a hole about 1" down and 4-5" to the right of the cluthc master cylinder.

(green line agian represents where the wire is)



From there route your cable into the enigne bay to where ever you have mounted your distribution box (I chose one from off of an old chevy caprice). Bolt it up, run another cable to the starter. (I used the original cable I ran to the starter when the battery was in the front).


Run the aux power cable to the distribution box.

Set up the ground for the battery. I used one the bolts that holds the trunk latch in place. (M10 bolt)



(I cut the wood out for the box to fit)

(also cut the carpet to sit in nicely)

Double and triple check all your cables, connections, all moving parts near the battery and distribution box. Button everything up, and fire her up.

~Dan

If you want more pictures of anything in specific let me know, I'll take some for you. Also any questions, ask away, ill do what i can to answer them.
 

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Captain Hammer
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2,020 Posts
My cents... =)

First off, welding cable lacks the number of strands, and although it is a larger gauge, it flows less electricity as it has fewer stands.

Also, running the cables under the car works very well, and the benifit of that is it prevents electromagnetic interfence.

And I also STRONGLY suggest running a optimia style battery, or use a sealed box with external vent for the battery.
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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5,911 Posts
raven97990 said:
My cents... =)

First off, welding cable lacks the number of strands, and although it is a larger gauge, it flows less electricity as it has fewer stands.

Also, running the cables under the car works very well, and the benifit of that is it prevents electromagnetic interfence.

And I also STRONGLY suggest running a optimia style battery, or use a sealed box with external vent for the battery.


Thats what I did.
 

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RIP 86.5 N/A, Hello 90T
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2,293 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Turbo: Thanks

Raven: I will be using an optima battery I used this one for mock up and to make sure everything worked fine. I in no way suggest using a standard battery, for the fact that it would be venting in the vehicle.

Thanks for the comments.

Also this cable works perfectly fine, Dave (FSTOY) is running 2 gauge welding cable and he's got plenty of juice, he hasn't had a problem yet and has been running it for quite some time. I decided to go with 1/0 just for the simple fact that by going about 13' further than the stock location I wanted it to be able to transport the electricty.
 

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2JZ Mk2
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1,183 Posts
FYI If you want to drag race you gonna need a sealed box and rear shut off switch. You have to have a sealed box, not the one like in the photo. This means Moroso or the fancy aluminum boxes.
 

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Registered
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5,110 Posts
For my setup I used 1/0 monster cable brand power cable, ran it through the plastic plug in the spare tire well, underneath the car all the way to the stock battery location where I mounted a 150 amp breaker and tied it in to all of the stock wiring. I'm also running an Optima style battery in an eight dollar wal-mart battery box.
 

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7M POWAH! baby ;)
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2,396 Posts
awesome write up... it'll definitely help those in future need of a guide :)

you've routed yours basically the same way i did mine, but where you went thru the firewall i (rhd) went up by the fusebox in the kickpanel and out thru the guard/fender to the first hole (where my abs is) and gonna feed the starter there ;)
pretty much the same tho
 

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going broke fast
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2,401 Posts
the pwoer cable you used is plenty big enough.
10 gauge,8,6,4,2,1 then 1/0,2/0,4/0

just for those that don't know that 1/0 is bigger than 1 gauge
 

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raven97990 said:
My cents... =)

First off, welding cable lacks the number of strands, and although it is a larger gauge, it flows less electricity as it has fewer stands.
Umm what?

<-- looks at all my physics books, Looks at high voltage transmission theory, Looks at normal eddy currents and electrical theories.

Bud what in the name of hell are you talking about?

The only thing that a high strand cound does give you PLIABILITY and breaks up the copper more to break up skin effect (same reason why transformers use plates and not one piece of Iron). If the guage is the same You could have ONE HUGE copper strand, it WILL flow the same just heat up more, not because of higher resistance no, because of higher inductance on due to skin effect, the bad part is that it will not bend at all.

raven97990 said:
Also, running the cables under the car works very well, and the benifit of that is it prevents electromagnetic interfence.

And I also STRONGLY suggest running a optimia style battery, or use a sealed box with external vent for the battery.
If the battery is in the inside of the cabin of our cars. Regardless of manufacture .Every single battery must be in a box that is vented. Yes EVEN dry cells like the Odessy! Optimas vent so they must be put in a vented battery box and if participating in NHRA or going to NHRA sanctioned track, must have a kill switch!
 

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RIP 86.5 N/A, Hello 90T
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2,293 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
With that said figgie. I wasn't going to argue with anyone but welding cable has many more strands than regular battery cable. It is much much much (to get the point across :)) pliable. It bends much easier than even the 2 gauge battery cable im running.

Thanks for all the kind words guys, helpful this will help someone with questions later on. Thats the reason I spent the 10 minutes writing it up :)

~Dan
 

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Destroyer of Turbos
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4,461 Posts
looks good dan! just throw the red top in there and your golden i think. do you have a circuit breaker there or a fuse?
 

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Always playing catch up
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1,632 Posts
nice, 2nd that venting :p

how much that whole thing cost to do?
 

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Premium Member
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6,130 Posts
dziuggy said:
this should go to FAQ. nice job man

btw is it enough to ground battery in the back only? since in the front it is grounded to engine and alternator
as long as its on the frame and the block is grounded your good, i'm in the middle of this right now, using 1/0 cable, cut off switch, box and everything :) aight peace :chicken:
 

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Powderin my balls since07
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2,175 Posts
SupraMkiii24 said:
Well It all started as a little kid I always wanted an mkiv so I've decided to geta FFIM so I can atleast look kindof like the 2j.

fuck u and ur MKIV

JK...very nice writeup, i was thinking of doing this as well...but i wasn't sure about tha battery types and what exactly needs 2 b done...
either way clean install...
 

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RIP 86.5 N/A, Hello 90T
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2,293 Posts
Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Well dziuzzy : In many ways I agree with you. The reason I did it the way I did (One ground) was to see if I would get ANY voltage out of the system. It turns out it started and ran perfectly fine. I've have no problems. I will probably add another strap to the battery just to be safe, as well as another beefy strap from the chassis to the block, just to be safe. Thanks for that input, I thought of it but forgot about that point in the process of building.

Nate (Snake Eyes): Good Question, I do believe many would like to know this so I will try and set out an itemized list for everyone.

18ft of 1/0 Gauge wire at 2.13 a ft + Tax ~$43

Battery Box ~ $12

Heavy Duty Terminal (for 1/0 gauge wire) ~ $4

Battery Tray and J hooks to bolt down box to tray ~ $8

All misc peices : ~ $11
1/0 gauge eyelet for connecting positive to distribution box
2 gauge eyelet for connecting starter cable to distribution box
16-18 gauge eyelet for aux. cable to distribution block (cabling coming from wire loom
near fuse block)
4 x 1/4" fender washers
4 x 1/4" lock washers
4 x 1/4" metal screws 1/2" long

Fee to get in Pick a Part $3

Sticking the distribution block from a chevy caprice in your pocket because you know they will want your leg/arm/first born child/ and testicles.................. PRICELESS......

Anyways so without figuring in time to this equation of money becuase it was done in free time as it's something i enjoy doing.

I figure I spent right around ~$81 + figure in the money for the new battery.

~Dan
 

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RIP 86.5 N/A, Hello 90T
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2,293 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
ahmedootie said:
fuck u and ur MKIV

JK...very nice writeup, i was thinking of doing this as well...but i wasn't sure about tha battery types and what exactly needs 2 b done...
either way clean install...
HAHA I saw your response and almost spit my water onto my monitor.

and Bert, BTW my turbo OWNS you :)
 
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