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Discussion Starter #1
How hard is it to do this? I assume its easy to put it in the back, but i think i may be wrong. I assume all you do is extend the battery cables and make a box and put the battery in the trunk somewhere. Total cost (w/o box) around 30 bucks. Am i right, and who has actually done this and has a pic.

Thanks,
-Mike

ps. I did do a search and turned up nothing
 

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-Getting High on KAI-
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This exsaktly Q was asked like 2 weeks ago, should be out there m8... ( there was a few replyes to it, witch maybe could answer your Q )
 

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Not hard to do BUT, if you want to run at a NHRA track:
The box must be sealed and vented to the outside.
You need a battery kill switch on outside of car.
 

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I had a 70 Camaro w/ the batt in the trunk. Even with 00 wire, it still cranked slow. Always started, but just sounded kinda ghetto. (not that the gray primer helped)
I got tired of it & moved it to the front & using the same battery it would crank immediately. But it would be nice to take ~40lbs off the front & put it over the rear end. I think Moroso makes battery boxes & all the needed hardware.
 

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GTE: I am not familiar with "00" gauge wire? Also, how much did it help your 60's?

I was going to use 17 ft of 2 gauge to connect to the existing pos. cable up front. Then have a neg cable running to the body in the back, with maybe an extra ground strap.

Al
 

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Battery Relocation Requirements
-2 gauge wire (Monster brand works well) $25-90 (expect to pay $80 for monster)
-Lots of electrical tape and loom $4
-Universal terminals (good luck finding 2 gauge ones) $2
-Custom mounting apparatus to hold the battery down
-A new ground closer to the battery and ground mount.
-Fuse, or switch rated at 100amps+ (found at any car stereo shop) $35-80 (depending on how basic/ ricey you want to go)


I ran 18ft of 2 gauge for my battery relocation. The hardest part was manipulating the 2 gauge from the engine bay through fender to the gromet by the clutch.

I ended up removing the vac line from my boost gauge and pulling it as far as I could back into the engine bay, yet leaving the lower part of the vac line still through the clutch gromet. I then quick tied the 2gauge to the boost gauge vac line as close to the fender opening as possibly. Then just pull the vac line towards the seats while you have another person feeding you the 2 gauge wire through the fender. When the 2 gauge hits the back side of the gromet you will need to enlarge the gromet hole to fit 2 gauge through it (a flat head works fine for this) be careful not to damage the vac line or any electrical items running through here)

The fuse/switch is not required, but its not a corner worth cutting. I also used the old negative battery terminal as a third ground, it was very easy as well as I just used one of the screw keyways where one of the old battery mouning bracket was connected through.

I will make a more detailed write up once I get a new camera.
 

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Thanks for the info! I was thinking about running the wire under the car - following the same path as the NOS line, then drilling a hole near the spare tire. NAPA has 2 gauge, and claim they have the connectors.

Any starting problems with the setup? Where did you connect the main battery ground to in the back? Also, the most important question - how much did you gain in 60' times?

Thanks!
Al
 

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I just put it in 2 days ago so I cannot give you a quote about the 60' times, however I noticed a substantial differance in hard braking and traction (take into note I have no rear interior). I could not find a good spot to drill by the spare tire (the fuel tank is right below), even if I had found a spot, 2gauge is a pretty big chuck of metal to take out. Theoreticly you could use the large empty gromet next to the right rear ABS gromet (under where stock sub was). I dont know if I would take the chance of running it below, Im just paranoid like that. Initial start up I had some problems, my optima was not charged, so make sure the rear battery is charged before you put strain on your alternator. If you are not making a sealed/vented box you must use a sealed battery like a optima (for health reasons). Most tracks require a sealed battery box (even if it is optima) and rear switch. (so FYI).
 

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How much volt loses is there when you add 3meters thick cable?
i'm thinking of doing this to and thank you premierpanda for the tips:)
 

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You can't just mount a regular battery in the passenger compartment. They can leak toxic fumes.

I don't think it would be a good idea to run any battery in the passenger compartment without a sealed box.

Also make sure its mounted to something strong. Its basically a 40 pound weight in the trunk. You don't want that flying around in an accident.
 

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I did it 6 month ago, I used 4 gauge and the starter cranks very fast. You can't have voltage drop in 5 metters of 4 gauge cable!!
You can put a sealed battery, ask for a battery for BMW, many of them use the battery under the rear seat (that is the passanger compartment) If any one wants more info I can send photos of my isntallation. The traction imporved a lot

Andres
 

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greensoup said:
You can't just mount a regular battery in the passenger compartment. They can leak toxic fumes.

I don't think it would be a good idea to run any battery in the passenger compartment without a sealed box.

Also make sure its mounted to something strong. Its basically a 40 pound weight in the trunk. You don't want that flying around in an accident.
As I noted, a optima is a sealed battery and does not vent any toxic fumes.
 

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another option is the hawker battery, but you have to recharge it if you don't drive it for a week. Not that big of a deal if you get a charger.
 

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4G63 said:
another option is the hawker battery, but you have to recharge it if you don't drive it for a week. Not that big of a deal if you get a charger.
Is the hawker sealed? Another problem with the mini battery you might want to consider is running electronics w/o the engine/alt on could bring a dead mini battery fast.
 

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Premier Panda said:
Is the hawker sealed? Another problem with the mini battery you might want to consider is running electronics w/o the engine/alt on could bring a dead mini battery fast.
That's true, I wouldn't run the car without the engine/alt for very long at all. I plan on running the 13 pound hawker up front.
 
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Discussion Starter #18
I know there is a site that sells a kit to move the battery to the back. It even includes a box for the battery. I will try to find the site and let you guys know.
-Mike
 
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Discussion Starter #19
Summit racing has alot of kits for relocating batteries. They have lots of boxes too. I saw one in person, and it seemed pretty nice. It was on a gsx though.
-Mike
 

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GTE said:
I had a 70 Camaro w/ the batt in the trunk. Even with 00 wire, it still cranked slow. Always started, but just sounded kinda ghetto. (not that the gray primer helped)
I got tired of it & moved it to the front & using the same battery it would crank immediately. But it would be nice to take ~40lbs off the front & put it over the rear end. I think Moroso makes battery boxes & all the needed hardware.
You probably had a bad ground... this kind of stuff happens all the time.
 
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