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Discussion Starter #1
Ok i posted about this a few months ago, that was before i checked out all the usual suspects.
The problem..
I have a sony HU (mex 1hd if that matters) . 250/1 JL amp (for sub only) and a custom enclosure 2 8" jl subs. Sounds good so far. All this sounds great when i get in the car and go to work every morning.

About 15-20 minutes into my comute my subs start crapping out. I have turned up the vol or anything, just crusing on the highway, rpms between 2-3. Its weird. The bass just dying dying out and then quits. The power light on the amp stays on and no warning lights come on. The amp is not hot either. The other speakers work fine... After about 15-20 more of driving he subs start to come back and its gradual like its stugling for power (aha!).
Furthermore, If i stop at a light while the subs are in crap mode, then put the car in 1st and give it gas and go, the subs start to come back and then die again as soon as im crusing.. WTF.

This happens every time i drive the car by the way. And let me tell you, its farking annoying as anything.

Now, i dont know shyte about batteries and such. I did check all the connections and they look fine. It really sounds like the battery cant provide the power over an extended period. (i could be wrong about this - its just what it looks like to me). The battery i have is an interstate battery and i have never had a problem starting the car up. Its about year and half old.

Has anyone seen this type of problem before? Should i get one of those yellow top batteries.? I dont know how to read voltage and shit so if you suggest that please point me in the right directing...

help!!
--bass deprived


thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yeah i got installed at best buy. It was friend of a friend who worked there type deal. I guess i should take it them.
The AMP and Subs i bought from someone off of SF. Its a JL Audio amp, no sure about the warranty stuff. Anyone know??
Also is it possible to test the amp to make sure...
 

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rowdiboy2 said:
yeah i got installed at best buy. It was friend of a friend who worked there type deal. I guess i should take it them.
The AMP and Subs i bought from someone off of SF. Its a JL Audio amp, no sure about the warranty stuff. Anyone know??
Also is it possible to test the amp to make sure...
JL Audio does not offer any warranty for any of their stuff that is bought online. That's why there is no such thing as an authorized internet reseller for JL Audio products. And since you bought them used, they're not going to warranty anything. Unless you're really buddy buddy with a local shop who can help you out, then you're out of luck if the stuff is bad.

Couple things you can try out yourself.

Hook up another pair of subs from someone else to your system and test out the amp. If it craps out again, could be the amp.

If the system runs fine, hook up your subs to a friend's system and see if the subs die. (I doubt its your subs)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I mean my setup isnt ridiculus or anything, it just an amp or sub so i figure the battery should be able to keep up.

yeah, i was thinking i maybe the alternator, but ive never had problems starting the car or anything. I guess it cant hurt to get it checked out. I also want to hook up other subs, its just a matter of finding someone with subs not fixed in thier cars LOls.

Any other suggestions guys. Thanks so far. I feel the more things i can troubleshoot i will find the problem.

Does anyone know how to check volatages on the battery or amp. I know i would need a voltmeter and all, I dont even know how to use all that stuff...
 

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rowdiboy2 said:
I mean my setup isnt ridiculus or anything, it just an amp or sub so i figure the battery should be able to keep up.


Does anyone know how to check volatages on the battery or amp. I know i would need a voltmeter and all, I dont even know how to use all that stuff...
Ya know I started off thinking the same thing.I only got 1 12dvc and 1 4x75 watt amp and 8 guage wire, (80 amp in line fuse)so i figured Id be ok. Boy was I wrong First off I melted the 80 amp fuse fromt the battery with one of the autocraft silver battery's( i believe thats what there called). Secondly with my amp under volume and cruise at 2500 rpms i should have seen 14.4v volts, nope. I was getting 12v's.When I had accercories running like rear defrost, heat, lights, and brakes on at a light i was killing the voltage sub 11's,yikes.

The first and simplest upgrade would be a deep cycle battery. An optima yellow top should do it, but if you need something with some more kick go with a kinetik power cell(www.kinetikpower.com).I installed the hc1400 in my 90 supra and it did wonders. At idle my juice is still lower around 12.5 with all acceries and system playing including rear defrost and breaks on.It usually holds for a good 30 seconds before I dip in to its "monster power".So as I rev or take off voltage is instantly there.The only way to really improve idle voltage is to upgrade the alternater system.Im checking in to an Acme rewound deal, hopefully Ill be able to get 150 amps or so out of the stocker.

As far as multimeters go, its pretty simple.Set your metter to the 200v section and it should read 0.00 and then place the read lead on the + side on the power input on the amp and the black lead from the multimeter to the - side of the power input and it should give you a reading like this 12.3 and it will be in voltage.I also upgraded to 4 gauge wire with the bigger batteyr setup, excactly what gauge are your running because that does affect current draw on your system
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Fuzz420,
Thanks man, Very helpful. im going to check it out with the multimeter first and then see what i need. I thnk i may have to invest in a yellow top type deal.
 

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Ganja Smoker Extrordinair
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I forgot to mention a friend of mine had almost the same problem. The car would just die and he would need a jump the hi current battery solved this for him. Hope the same to you good luck

Fyi.
if you interested in a kinetik call your local audio stores as the prices on the website are high and in town it was over a 100 dollars cheaper and well worth the cash
 
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Check the ground for the amp wires.. then upgrade ur car electrical system. (alternator, battery,starter) From what u described all of that would fix the problem.
 
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