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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, when my Supra sat in a barn for 19 years, somewhere along the way, the battery must have frozen and cracked. And leaked and rusted under the tray. I'd like to patch the hole and also sandblast and repaint before I put the engine back in. Does the tray come out? I see a thick line of factory sealant around its edges and am guessing it's welded on under that seam sealer - not bolts I'll find if I pick through the sealant. Welded?

Thanks
 

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the tray is welded in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OK. Crud, I'm going to have to pick up a small sand blaster that works with air, because I'm not going to be able to get to all those nooks and crannies. No worries - I'll get 'er done.
 

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Wire wheel and rattle can black here. It is my understanding that most cars rust here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Yeah, mine is clearly a battery issue as the car is dry and solid everywhere. There's about an 8 inch blast radius where the fumes attacked the electronics directly behind the battery, and the paint, then it clearly cracked/froze and leaked acid down through the tray. A few minutes ago, I finished pulling the inner fender back enough to see what I've got to do. I have a portable sand blaster from Harbor Freight and will pick up media later today. A wire wheel won't get down into the areas I need down to bare metal.

My plan is to use marine grade fiberglas to repair the hole, then put a drain in there as it looks like it was a pocket that water could sit in that could/should have a drain hole. This are essentially serves as a battery tray support, and to seal the engine bay from road grime, so I just want to restore its function properly.

Once the repair is done, I'll replace the body sealant I will be digging out so I have complete bare metal in the area to apply fresh sealant on the tray's forward seams. Once that is done, I'll use epoxy over the repair, then spray it red with a rattle can to match the body color.

I'll see if I can post pictures along the way, but I want this to be quick with the engine coming together.
 

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if going to glass it, why not cut out the cancer and attach new mild steel, weld then do what you need to do after. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It's in an awkward spot, with part of the damage directly under the tray. So the tray would also have to be cut out, then welded back in. Since I don't weld, I'd also have to have the car towed in to a shop. The blasting will remove the rust and paint to bare metal. The fiberglas will be strong and permanent. Once the battery is back in place, the entire area is completely hidden, though I will properly finish it body color anyhow.

I hear what you're saying and if I welded, I'd give that a go. In fact, once I get in there, I may change my mind after I finish sandblasting it clean. Removing the seam sealer is going to be rough. That is tough stuff and I don't think the sandblaster will remove "soft" things so well. So I may be going at it with edged weapons!
 

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interesting enough, just today i saw this.
cutfrontenginebay.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wow serious lightening process and the battery probably went rearward somewhere. I'm partway there:
260302
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So I am almost done getting stuff out of the way in that whole corner to sandblast it and then repair it. I hope there are still some folks on here parting stuff because I will need an igniter and the finned thing it sits on, whatever the electronic thing that sits rearward of that and its bracket, etc. The bolts are ruined and the brackets are too. Most of the painted areas here will be hand sanded, primed and painted easily but that hole and a few inches in each direction will get blasted to clean them up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah, so the igniter sits on the resistor pack - thanks. There's no good underhood labeled diagram in the service manual that I've found yet. What is the smaller finned item that's farther rearward, and aluminum finned as well? It's directly between the shock tower and the fender atop the inner fender. Still looking for a good underhood diagram while asking....
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
So the black igniter(?) is directly behind the underhood fuse block, atop a thick, finned aluminum component, which I'll need (I think I have a new igniter). It has a few metal relays which were affected by the gas on the outside, not sure if they were functionally damaged inside - may need those. Then the thing farther back by itself at the shock tower is labelled a "solenoid resister" in my FSM and it's bracket which I'll also need. There are a few other things as well, and mine is a non-turbo which I think means there are a few component differences? Does the "parts wanted" get much response on this website?
 

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... Does the "parts wanted" get much response on this website?
you can try it but the best place is currently FB groups. Lots of people selling but got to be careful. Pay with paypal goods and services. Do not pay with zelle, venmo etc if you do not know the person.
 

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The igniter looks like this for the turbo. The NA also has the coil which may be the black object you speak of. Post up a picture. The injector resistor (solenoid resistor in toyota speak) sits to the rear of the igniter.

Picture of igniter (turbo).
260308
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks - that last one with the "3572" tag is what I'll be needing. So, I will never sand blast again as long as I live. More by serendipity than actual knowledge, I decided to do this before pulling the car into the garage. But after 60 seconds, you realize the grit goes everywhere. Like I'm aiming it into the front corner of the engine bay and it's somehow clear back on the hatch window. Wow.

It worked well and I will have a solid fix, but that was truly nutty. I cannot imagine blasting an entire car, or even just a frame. 2 square feet was enough to make me batty as these small sand blasters clog and even a fairly large air compressor like mine is barely adequate.
 

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Doug, please tell me you were wearing a respirator and goggles when you did that one? Silicosis is a hell of a condition to develop my friend. There's a reason that most people who do blasting outside of a cabinet look like they're wearing full hazmat suits...

On my car, there were a few spots of rust, we used a solution called Corroseal, it seems to have worked well enough. POR-15 also works well, but again, mind your environment and protective gear, it's nasty stuff. Eastwood also sells a variety of rust encapsulators that you might wanna look into. Basic idea is to knock the looser stuff out as much as possible, then cover with a rust converter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yes, thanks te72. I did not use a product with silica in it and that's wise advice. I used a safer black product my doctor buddy had on hand (borrowed his blaster, too), plus a hood and steered clear of the debris flow. I had a small area to do and I think I was actually blasting for perhaps 10 total minutes. The rest of the time was swearing at the machine, banging on the clog, stopping to wait 15 minutes for my compressor to catch up, looking around in the dirt for the cotter pin when the machine's leg fell off, peeing in the shrubbery and remembering the game camera was on and deleting the footage.

So the speed bump I'm parked against at the moment is widespread internet advice not to put fiberglas on bare metal, but you must prime it. And not any primer - epoxy primer. Which I found out this evening after being giddy to prime it is not available at normal stores. So tomorrow I am off to the expensive auto parts paint supplier. Do you know if that is true? Apparently, POR15 you have to sand it after it dries to accept fiberglas. What say ye?
 
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