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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Tuesday, on my day off, I went over to the machine shop. My heads and parts were sitting exactly where they were dropped off.. Sum of five weeks ago after being quoted 4 days.. I packed my shit up and am moving on. I’ve got someone taking it to their builder for me. They’re buddies so he said no problem to get a quick turn around and they do great work because they’re friends. Seems to be the only way to get a machinist to do good work around here. Frustrated…
 

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well the good news is that August quickly approaches...
Get that shit into Larry's hands and you will be good to go.
 
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I had a similar experience many years ago. Dropped off a head at a local "race shop" who was highly recommended and he said he'd have it back by the end of the week. Nothing. A week later I called - no idea who I am, the owner will call me. No call. Jumped in the car and the head was sitting right where I put it. Started carrying the head and other bits to my car and an employee tried to stop me. I bristled and let him know with clenched teeth that was not a good idea. I'm not a fighter or that type of personality but the personal disrespect to me was more than I could take. That's how I discovered an absolutely amazing shop, however, and I wish the same outcome on you here!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
So my hang up with the machine shop is the valve adjustment. I've never done it so I'm nervous about that hence paying to have it done. Does anyone know where I can get the SST? All the shops are concerned with how time consuming it is.. OR would buying the BC shim kit eliminate the need??
I met with the machinist last night, he said the head looks like it had bhg and never ported. He is going to check it out and go from there. He said he didn't have the tools to do the valve adjustment, but was going to put me in touch with someone who did ports and adjustments for Kevin and Larry at SP. And low and behold that guy is literally in my back yard. So I'm waiting to hear back from them and as a contingency plan, I will adjust the valve lash at the shop where I can waste my own time.
 

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it is VERY time consuming and time is money ($/hr).

Easiest is a spreadsheet with current measurement (shim and clearances) and then see if musical chairs with the shim will bring them into spec. Then for those that cannot, need to buy new shims. of the correct size to get to clearance.
 
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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
I do have 3 whole sets of shims and buckets from my heads I've accumulated. Now, is it better to do on the car or head on the bench?
 

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I hope your machinist checks the cam bearing clearances. My experience has been the caps wear pretty badly to the rear of the head farthest from the oil feed and need to be closed up with lapping. If you have 10 mil of clearance in the bearings then you can never set the lash with any accuracy.
 

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It's easier on the bench with the cams in at maybe 75% torque (you don't want to keep using aluminum threads - heh) on the bench where you're not leaning into the engine bay. Check my "Father/Son" thread active in the forum for what I did to clean up the cams and journals. I lapped my cam journals slightly, cleaned the bearings slightly, cleaned the cams slightly and ended up with what should be good oil film surfaces that will run with good oiling. The tool is available online for $25 or so. I bought one and it's still in the package as I opted to "tip" my valves to get final adjustments on the valve lash.
 

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My guess would be the head was slightly warped (machined flat but warped if the cams turned) and caused the cam to bind, (the smearing of metal to metal) this then caused too much friction which caused the dowel pin to bend in the cam and fall out. You lost compression because there was a bent valve maybe or just the cam wasn't turning causing the car to shut off
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
The machinist did say tipping the valves is a potential option, but he said it’s not incredibly accurate as in .001-.002” off potentially. I bought the Lexus valve adjustment tool off Amazon today and some stem seals as it’s looking like that’s the way I might have to go if I want this back in time for SP in august.
 

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The machinist did say tipping the valves is a potential option, but he said it’s not incredibly accurate as in .001-.002” off potentially. I bought the Lexus valve adjustment tool off Amazon today and some stem seals as it’s looking like that’s the way I might have to go if I want this back in time for SP in august.
I stripped the threads on one of the cam caps in the process of removing and replacing the cams multiple times. Be sure and observe the tightening sequence or you can potentially bend the cams. I finally bit the bullet and took it to a shop. Quoted $350 and one week. Cost $600 and took 3 weeks. Instead of tipping my valves he replaced them all. I provided a tray of 60 shims plus what was on my head. He used his own. I provided valve shim seals. He used his own. I provided helicoils and tool. He used a nut-cert. I didn’t want to install the cams again. They only torque lightly, like 14 ft lbs, and I’d already screwed one up. He left the cams off saying they had to be to reinstall the head. Not really true with the right socket but what do I know? I checked all the clearances after the head was back on the car and they were all in the right range. I feel lucky to be gone from there. Won’t give him a bad review, but would hate to need him again.

I asked how long it took in hours. He said six, but if his good guy was still there, two hours. It would have taken me forever.
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Picking up Lisle tool 36050 to do the springs and retainers. I've watched some videos on setting the clearances and it doesn't look too bad if you have the tool to lock the buckets.
 

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Picking up Lisle tool 36050 to do the springs and retainers. I've watched some videos on setting the clearances and it doesn't look too bad if you have the tool to lock the buckets.
That laughing icon isn't laughing at your statement. I thought that was the case, too. I don't want to begin trying to tell you all I went through. It really shouldn't be a tough job. Good luck! Keep us posted :)

David

P.S To anyone is San Diego. The secret FB group has a tray of shims that may be passed around. Pick one, Replace one. Note a member? Ask me and I'll get you in the group.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
I have the BC 272 and they only allow a .002'' range, might make things more difficult?
 

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I have the BC 272 and they only allow a .002'' range, might make things more difficult?
about half the range with your cams vs, OEM setup

262591


People say they have success shuffling things around... probably possible. The main issue that I had was that when the head was machined and the valves were cleaned up, the stems were too long, requiring all the shims to be on the thinner side. I wanted my values "tipped". The head shop wanted new valves... and with new valves, the shims were back in the middle of the available range. I hated using the tool and tried to do the measurement on one cylinder at the time... removing the other buckets and shims, and just working on one cylinder... removing and replacing the cam each time. Obviously, this was a bad idea as I stripped the threads on the third try (i.e., I had two cylinders right on the exhaust cam, and I stripped the threads on the third). Made me nervous and I fussed over it for months... and finally went to the head shop. I'm pretty sure that if you master that tool that locks the buckets that you can get it. The right shim will be a bit harder to find though. Shims are available from a couple of brands of motorcycle dealers. Presumably we're talking 7m. They are 25mm width. They are also available from the dealer, and on Amazon. For some reason, I don't think DriftMotion sells them for the 7m. If you get in a bind, give me a thickness and I can check my tray that has 60 +/- in it. Shipping is always the killer though... That's only a good idea in a pinch :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
I called Toyota and they still offer them in 4 sizes at a whopping $11/ea! ouch... but they are available. TSRM lays out a way to do it with feeler gauges and turning the cams over and working on paired cylinders on the camshaft at the same time, measure, see if they're on the tight or loose end, then move to the next cylinders. Sort out the exhaust side, then move to intake. I have the benefit of three sets of shim/buckets from my three heads. If I could just get some good machine work, I don't even mind paying. It's getting close to a need it done, not want it done. Supra withdrawls
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
New development. They want me to send out the head to someone in Minnesota. I'm not down for this. Why is it so hard to get some simple machine work done? Its not a ford or chevy so no one wants to touch it. May end up going back to the first shop for just machining. Called SP's shop they use and got voicemail, I'm sure they're swamped.
Frustrated. This shouldn't be so hard.
 

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New development. They want me to send out the head to someone in Minnesota. I'm not down for this. Why is it so hard to get some simple machine work done? Its not a ford or chevy so no one wants to touch it. May end up going back to the first shop for just machining. Called SP's shop they use and got voicemail, I'm sure they're swamped.
Frustrated. This shouldn't be so hard.
There has to be someone closer than that... it's hard for me to imagine not. If nobody here chimes in, post on a couple of the FB groups. Baffling situation.
 
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