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911 Turbo Now
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Discussion Starter #1
hey, i did a serch but dident get a good answer.
My question is, what is the BEST thing to wax a car with other then by hand. What should i buy to wax/polish my car with. Its black too if that matters. Basicly, i just dont want to spend so much time doing it by hand anymore thanks.

price cap is about 200. Thanks
 

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I have to disagree, both Makita, and Dewalt make VS polishers that go 800-3000 rpm. If you compound/polish the bumper covers, and mirrors at ~>2500 rpm, you are asking for it. Check the 3m polishes, the recomended speeds are pretty low. also slower speed+ less chance to screw up if you are learning. Now, they are big, but the 3M fness it foam waffle pads fit it perfectly. They are also more money (~179-229.00) But, I've never burned my 97 RSP with that combo. Carl
 

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911 Turbo Now
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
i also have swirl marks, would that be too advanced for some one like me to tackle? (i have ZERO experiance with a PC or anything like it, ive allways just done it by hand)

Also, my primary concern is i dont want to make my paint WORSE. thanks
 

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i'd definitely recommend the porter cable buffer for a beginner...the dewalts and mikita's are awesome buffers....all the car dealerships use them as well but they should be left for those who really know what they are doing...you can easily burn your paint
 

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How is this one?

I bought the PC 7336SP recently, but haven't had the time or weather to use it....How does it rate?

Thanks,
 

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For ALL detailing needs:

www.autopia.org

Get a nice set of Excel pads, some poorboys polishes, and whatever wax you have good success with, and your paint will be the envy.
 

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I second the autopia referral we have a few supra owners there as well. It is to detailing as this site is to supras. I have the pc and it is not magic but it is about process. ie using the proper tools and different grades of polishes to get the result you want. There have been some amazing brought back from the dead posts on autopia yes the pc will get rid of mild to mdoerate swirls
 

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Mamba Still On Top
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I love my PC. It will accomplish things that cannot be done by hand while still being safe (ie: not burning your paint off). I recommend getting the PC 7336 from Lowe's and then a the backing plate/pad kid from exceldetail.com. Get several blue, green, and yellow pads. Choose your compounds (I am happy with my Meg's #83 and #80) and start slow.

Read Autopia.org and you will find tons of information. :)
 
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To key to using the PC, as MD said, is to start slow and move up slowly in speed to work the wax/polish into the paint and clearcoat. #80 made my car scream as far was color goes. That kit you linked to Cordeez is a good kit. Sonus makes better pads than most.
 

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More thoughts:
Use a high speed buffer for removing light/surface blemishes.

Yes, spend the money on a good one like Black & Decker, or equivelant. It'll last forever and it accepts the professional vecro types of pads.

Always use the foam pads!....
Not wool/hair pads <---- that's seriously how you burn paint as a beginner!!! Plus the foam doesn't create more work for you the way wool does.

You'll never find a reason to use more than about 1500-1700ish rpms with a high speed rotary buffer. If you do, then you're getting carried away and need to learn more.

Always keep the buffer moving. Standing still with compound can add to the risk of burning paint. This goes triple for wool pads!!!

And most of all, high speed rotary buffers (not the slwo moving dual action polishsers) are what creat the heavy swirl marks that make sunlight whip across the paint's surface. ----> finishing a buff job with a few coats of a hand-applied product like zaino (or equivelant) is what rubs that last bit of imperfection out of the paint. You can't use a machine rotary buffer and not create buffing swirl marks....but you need it to polish out the surface blemishes first.

Just FYI - This is all "basic" information...not opinion-based thoughts.
 

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Mamba Still On Top
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blkturbo! said:
More thoughts:
Use a high speed buffer for removing light/surface blemishes.

Yes, spend the money on a good one like Black & Decker, or equivelant. It'll last forever and it accepts the professional vecro types of pads.

Always use the foam pads!....
Not wool/hair pads <---- that's seriously how you burn paint as a beginner!!! Plus the foam doesn't create more work for you the way wool does.

You'll never find a reason to use more than about 1500-1700ish rpms with a high speed rotary buffer. If you do, then you're getting carried away and need to learn more.

Always keep the buffer moving. Standing still with compound can add to the risk of burning paint. This goes triple for wool pads!!!

And most of all, high speed rotary buffers (not the slwo moving dual action polishsers) are what creat the heavy swirl marks that make sunlight whip across the paint's surface. ----> finishing a buff job with a few coats of a hand-applied product like zaino (or equivelant) is what rubs that last bit of imperfection out of the paint. You can't use a machine rotary buffer and not create buffing swirl marks....but you need it to polish out the surface blemishes first.

Just FYI - This is all "basic" information...not opinion-based thoughts.
Sean, I agree that a quality rotary like a Makita or Portercable rotary is the best way to fix blemishes, however it also requires skill and is dangerous in the hands of someone inexperienced. That's why everyone is throwing out a DAP. Not everyone has skills like you.. :cool: :run:
 

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MDSuPeRStAr said:
Sean, I agree that a quality rotary like a Makita or Portercable rotary is the best way to fix blemishes, however it also requires skill and is dangerous in the hands of someone inexperienced. That's why everyone is throwing out a DAP. Not everyone has skills like you.. :cool: :run:
Rotary: Makita

Dual Action: Porter Cable

I have a PC 7424 and LOVE it.

I have a 2003 black F150 w/ 16K miles.

You can look directly into the sun reflecting off my hood, and you will not see a single spiderweb, or swirlmark as most mistakenly call them.

Thanks to DACP and SMR 2.0
 

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MDSuPeRStAr said:
Sean, I agree that a quality rotary like a Makita or Portercable rotary is the best way to fix blemishes, however it also requires skill and is dangerous in the hands of someone inexperienced. That's why everyone is throwing out a DAP. Not everyone has skills like you.. :cool: :run:

Huh? lol, Are you implying (with your "skills" and funny icons) that I implied that I was "the man"? That wasn't what I was doing....

I only posted as "more thoughts" since the guy didn't find what he wanted in search....not to compete against any other posts in this thread :) Plus, I don't shop for Porta cable stuff since I've always had the same rotary (B&D) buffer since about '95 and it still works....so, I don't even know (without searching the Porta cable web sites) the part numbers for the DAP and such ----> meaning, without going outside this thread, I don't even know precisely which buffer most of these posts are reffering to (rotary vs DA......I'm too lazy to look right now). Because, my post stands as I wrote it regardless of the recomendations...since the info still applies to whom it may concern.

I was posting just because I was bored and had a few minutes to add some thoughts to the previous comments on "burning paint", "swirl marks", "experience", "black paint", "foam pads", PC bla bla part #'s......I just posted so whoever can take whatever they want from my info. Not to challenge anything in this thread against such-and-such PC item, if in fact that's what you are implying :D

But if I'm reading you correctly....let me re-explain (for those that may want/buy a rotary) that it takes much less experience to use a high-speed rotary *with foam* vs one with wool pads.
But then again, I may be over-expalining myself since I'm tired and need to log off, lol.

You wanna talk dangerous? ---> put a rotary with wool pads in the hands of a newbie :D Meanwhile, those foam pads are extremely forgiving with a rotary set to no more than 1500ish rpms max, while keeping the buffer in motion ;)
Also, newbies should/must learn how to "point" the leading edge of the raotary pad in the correct direction ----> off of the panel's edge, no into it.

Also, those using rotary buffers....stay away from heavy heavy grit compounds. That shit's over-rated as with using high RPM settings. The rotary buffer isn't capable of 3K rpms because paint needs it....it's just capable.....because.

Again, just some added thoughts.
Later...
 

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blkturbo! said:
Huh? lol, Are you implying (with your "skills" and funny icons) that I implied that I was "the man"? That wasn't what I was doing....

Later...
Sean, you are the man. I was simply pointing out that you know what you are talking about, and complimenting your skills and knowledge. I was just stating that most people aren't as good as you, nor do they have the experience, hence why I recommended them a DAP.

Smile man, it was a compliment. :kiss: :naughty:
 
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