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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking at boost logics kits and noticed that have they have listed T63, T64, T67P/Q, T70Q, T71Q/R, T72Q/R, T74Q/4

I know that the 70's and up are for a shit load of power and im not wanting to go that far yet. So my questions are based on the 63, 64, 67.

1) what does P trim wheels, GTQ wheels, GT wheels, GTR wheels, what is the diff in these?

2) does any one have a 63, 64, or 67 on a auto car?

3) Do any of you know how they spool and what kind of hp im looking at.

4) I would like to have the car on full boost by no later 4500. sooner the better, but the stock twins i had didnt hit 4300.


My car will be on a stock auto trans and fuel for a while. So i need something that will work well with that but at the same time i dont want to have to upgrade the turbo after i get fuel and built trans. So with that said i would rather have it ok to drive for now and bad ass later.

Any thought comits sugestion would be grate.
 

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Even the 67GTQ will hit full boost before 4500, but I'm not sure how you'd get on with it on stock fuel.
 
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I was always under the assumption that the SP63/PT63 was essentially just a T64?
 
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You should just go with the budget kit from Lar at SP. for 2500 cannot beat it. And you can upgrade the header later. Some are making around 630rwhp with this kit and a 67.

If I were you I would get the 63 or 67 Budget so that you can have a good powerful turbo for later like you suggested. (63 has made 650 and 67 can make 700+). The budget header setup will keep you from going all out if you were to cut or burn a hole in a boost hose. May even save you the bottom end if you catch it. Remove your FPDB and get a FPR. That way you can support about 550rwhp. This will help too so that if you over boost it will not be by an enormous amount like if you had the full tubular header kit. This will also be right where your tranny needs to be to last for decent amount of time.

I have read alot of questions you have had and it looks like you have been looking for a kit for a month or so. I say this sounds like a good route for you and you can upgrade it to a tubular and have ABOUT the same amount as you would going with the full kit.

Just my .02 and I think you will be happy with this power. You can also stay on MAF I think so that will save you alot of dough so you dont have to get a VPC/GCC, etc or AEM!!!!!!!!
 

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Get the PT63, or smaller if you can. Stock fuel, and stock auto tranny with stock stall are a lot more fun with a nice fast spooling turbo.

Upgrading the turbo is the easiest thing to do after you get all the supporting mods.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yea i have been looking on and off for a while. Deal is a bought a wide body kit and wheels then two days later the stock twins died. Then a week later i blew the motor in the toyota truck. Which has to be fixed first because the benz will not go in the snow. Also we are having a baby in Jan which means i have to get the wife a new ride that has a back seat. So the supra is sort of on the back burner. But at the same time i would like to at least get it to run. MY stock twins sucked something through them. The first turbo is missing 3 blades and the rear one does not move. So i have a nice garage ornament.

I have looked at the sp kits but last time i checked the SP budget kit was the same price as boost logics kit. It seems to me that it buying a bigger kit right off the bat for the same money would be better. However im probably confused... i usually a
 

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I just bought a BL kit with a 67GTQ. I am running a stock trans and a stock fuel system. With a 4000 stall the boost is almost instant, it hits faster than the stock twins and the car feels faster at only 16 psi. Do you have a high stall on the car? Personally I wouldn't get any aftermarket turbo without a stall... it probably won't be fun. If you do plan on getting a turbo without a stall i would say get the smallest turbo you can get.

I have actually been running lean with the stock fuel but I've been having some tuning issues that I can't get sorted out. Once I get my datalogging I'm sure I will be able to find a safe boost level for the stock fuel system. Also, the idea of getting the FPDP and the FPR is a good idea, it will give you that extra bit of safety you need. also, methonal injection is another way to go if you want to be safe but don't want to shell out dough for a full fuel sytem.

BTW, do you really want to get a budget kit just to save $1000?
 
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Kerr the SP budget kit is only 2500 and you can spend the 1000 later for the tubular upgrade as that is what larry told me over the phone!!! THen you are at 3500+ which is what the BL kit is.
Just remember the BL kit is 3550 with the standard T67 turbo. If you get any more options it is 450-550 on top of that so 4100!!! Already priced it so it depends on your budget. I would go the route I said earlier because I have read some of your info before on the turbo, body kit, wheel situation. Hope that helps you.
 

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I'm enjoying what is essentially a BL63 kit, and it's everything I hoped. I built mine out of a Greddy T78 so it's not a true BL kit, but the turbo, fittings, DP, and I/C piping is direct from BL. It's a really nice setup...much more responsive than my old setup. :)

Be aware that PT forces you into a larger compressor housing with the 63 though...that was a surprise to myself and Kean when I ordered mine.

Steve T.
 

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BoostJunkie94 said:
Kerr the SP budget kit is only 2500 and you can spend the 1000 later for the tubular upgrade as that is what larry told me over the phone!!! THen you are at 3500+ which is what the BL kit is.
Just remember the BL kit is 3550 with the standard T67 turbo. If you get any more options it is 450-550 on top of that so 4100!!! Already priced it so it depends on your budget. I would go the route I said earlier because I have read some of your info before on the turbo, body kit, wheel situation. Hope that helps you.
This makes no sense, I would assume that you be upgrading the turbo, the DP and the midpipe. Thats a little more than a 1000 dollar header.Tell me what would you actually use from the SP budget kit that would transfer to a full blown SP kit. The asssumption should be is it worth spending more money to get a top of the line kit.
 
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Just trying to help him as he seems to be broke within reason.

Dont worry I have a BL kit, tranny, from Kean!!!!!

Just buy you some stock twins and get it up and running. Thats just 200 bucks lately on the forum. Atleast then you can start driving the ride around and start thinking about what you really want to do with the car.

Missing 3 blades on the turbo??????????? You werent doing the panty hose thing for an intake were you!! HAHAHA!!!

Just remember if you go big now you will probably have to get someone to install the AEM, or VPC/GCC, fuel, etc, and TUNE IT!!!. So if you dont have good local tuners then I would send the car out to TX, FL, or Chicago, or call a tuner in like Derek over the CPU or fly in one of the tuners (if going AEM).

I do mean a good tuner too that knows what they are doing. Speaking of tuners I remember the discussions of someplace there in Bristol, Tn I think? Those that know of them here and by there calls refer to them as MotorMouths. Its near the Bristol Motorspeedway is all I remember reading. (dont know if that has anything to do with Bristol, VA) but they scare some of the guys on this forum as they have pmed and asked some of the shops and others some really (your kidding me) questions. Not to knock anyone as everyone has learned through experiences and in the field. But really use your judgement in who you let do these mods as they can cause you a shortblock or tranny if not configured correctly in the software. And no one knows the AEM better than those listed above, and Jason Siebel, Derek, and some of the AEM tuners that will fly to your location and tune.

I know Chris (PM SUPRA above) and Kean have been doing some extensive testing with the AEM and BL tranny. I am happy with what I have bought from them. Experience, R&D, and know how is well worth your money when you go past just the bolt on aspects of the turbo kit.
 
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Ya'll with your "added safty of the FPDB". That shit makes me laugh every time.
 

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Brad Mayo said:
Ya'll with your "added safty of the FPDB". That shit makes me laugh every time.
It makes us feel good ok!!! :D The FPR definitly helps though.

A FPDP is a fuel line that routes straight from the filter into the back of the rail. It bypasses the fuel dampener which some say is a big restriction in the stock fuel system.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I have pondered with the idea of doing the stock twins, but that is a lot of work to take off and put on.

As for the shop there name is Motor mavericks. Lol…Mayo calls them the same thing. Yes some of them are complete dumb ass’s. If a real car comes in to get work done it will not be worked on by the ones that post. That and because the are the only shop around a lot of kids in town post saying they work there. Im real good friends with the owner so I can use there dyno and what not if I need it. The main problem up there is there are to many chiefs and not enough Indians if you know what I mean. That and the fact that when something goes wrong the owner ask me about it instead of the “mechanic” at the shop so im sure they are trying to find a way to bust my balls. I know I would be if my boss was asking other people how to fix a car then telling me what to do.
What I would probably do is fly some one in that can tune supra’s then see if any people with in say a 200 mile radius wants to chip in for dyno tuning and spilt the cost of who ever the tuner is. I mean 200 miles from bistol is Knoxville, Roanoke, NC, and Kentucky.

If you need anything from them or just want a price quote on stuff as for CHRIS GUY. He is one that does know his stuff.
 
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They way you put it sounds like they will not be around long. Maybe you should contract out your services to them
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
So for now with a Stock trans, fuel (do have a fuel computer) and a stock stall.

Also what kind of power will the SP budget kit make on pump gas. Im not a big race gas fan, i drive to much.

So i guess what you are all are saying is,

1) SP budget kit with a 63-67?

then save up and do the trans.

2) what are the main diff in the budget kit from a 63-67 standpoint
 

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wouldnt the single put too much stress onto the stock tranny especially with a Torque convertor?
 

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KERR said:
So for now with a Stock trans, fuel (do have a fuel computer) and a stock stall.

Also what kind of power will the SP budget kit make on pump gas. Im not a big race gas fan, i drive to much.

So i guess what you are all are saying is,

1) SP budget kit with a 63-67?

then save up and do the trans.

2) what are the main diff in the budget kit from a 63-67 standpoint
As far as power goes... there won't be huge differences..

The differences are in quality and the differences are like comparing a yugo to a benz.
 
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I dont mean to be an ass or start a flame war... but why would the quality of the kit be a big factor if they are both of acceptable quality and make similar power? I could see if one kit was poor quality and the other was excellent... but we're not talking about junkyard parts.

I personally would go with whatever will make the power you want and use that extra money on tuning.
 
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