"BPU" is Exhaust, Downpipe, Intake and increased boost pressure. When you put the downpipe on you will definately feel the difference in power.
Tony
95TT6SPD
[email protected]
Tony
95TT6SPD
[email protected]
BPU and cost
G
What's up, Just picked up a 98tt 6spd, w/20,000 miles, fast car but already want more power. Just have a couple of questions:
Is the BPU just intake, exhaust and a down pipe.What does the down pipe do and how much of a difference will it make.
Thanks in advance...
Is the BPU just intake, exhaust and a down pipe.What does the down pipe do and how much of a difference will it make.
Thanks in advance...
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
intake is optional but def exhaust, dp, increased boost(whether bleeder, pulled hoses, capped VSV, or the EBC) AND some type of fuel cut disabler (FFCD, HKS FCD, or the strongly recommended Greddy BCC).
to run mid [email protected]+ all u need is:
exhaust $400 (Apex N1)
DP $250-300
BCC $80
bleeder $1
total: $700-800
I have done it.
to run mid [email protected]+ all u need is:
exhaust $400 (Apex N1)
DP $250-300
BCC $80
bleeder $1
total: $700-800
I have done it.
G
That's it, this is GREAT I'm glad I sold my 98 Cobra it just didnt feel like a sports car.
Is the bleeder, pulled hoses, capped VSV a
safe method and will it cause any longterm
damage overall or is it better/safer to use a EBC. May be a silly ? but, is it safe to disable the fuel cut-off device. Also what does the down pipe do or how does it work to increase power and which of these items will void the warranty not that I care if the gains are worth it. What Kind of Hp gain can I really expect.
You Guys are AWSOME, Thanks for the quick response. Looks like Im going shopping.....
Is the bleeder, pulled hoses, capped VSV a
safe method and will it cause any longterm
damage overall or is it better/safer to use a EBC. May be a silly ? but, is it safe to disable the fuel cut-off device. Also what does the down pipe do or how does it work to increase power and which of these items will void the warranty not that I care if the gains are worth it. What Kind of Hp gain can I really expect.
You Guys are AWSOME, Thanks for the quick response. Looks like Im going shopping.....
read this: http://www.rtec.ch/turbo_basics.html
although it was written for 3000GT VR4, the same concept applies to all turboed cars.
you'll gain an understanding of how turbos work & why a wastegate is needed to control boost & most importantly how to control the wastegate to regulate the amount of boost u want.
that said I use the bleeder because it is safer (more conservative) then capped VSV (MAX BOOST!!! because no air pressure is "wasted") or pulled hoses (close to max boost). However there IS a point of diminishing returns for boost. higher boost on smaller turbos (or turbos not design for that high of boost) will result in excessive HEAT. and we all know heated air is a NO NO.
Read the wastegate section & u'll understand more. of course if u have the $$$ go for the EBC, just be aware some EBCs don't work well (or at all) w/the SEQUENTIAL setup. I hear the Greddy EZ & the Blitz DSBC (prob a better unit) work well.
BTW the DP eliminates the kitties, so yes it will void the warranty. however u could just bolt them back on.
I would do the DP, BCC, boost gauge & bleeder 1st. Then later do the exhaust then intake. unless of course u plan to buy it all at once ;-) then even later u may want to try an EBC.
I have been running w/a bleeder for 4 years w/no probs. BTW you'll notice supras run VERY RICH (toyota being conservative again). get a fuel tuner (VPC/AFC) and lean it a little for even more HP.
BTW It just occurred to me that mkiv.com most likely has all this info in detail. And don't accept anything I say as fact (until u have verified it). good luck!
[ June 09, 2001: Message edited by: twinturboman ]
although it was written for 3000GT VR4, the same concept applies to all turboed cars.
you'll gain an understanding of how turbos work & why a wastegate is needed to control boost & most importantly how to control the wastegate to regulate the amount of boost u want.
that said I use the bleeder because it is safer (more conservative) then capped VSV (MAX BOOST!!! because no air pressure is "wasted") or pulled hoses (close to max boost). However there IS a point of diminishing returns for boost. higher boost on smaller turbos (or turbos not design for that high of boost) will result in excessive HEAT. and we all know heated air is a NO NO.
Read the wastegate section & u'll understand more. of course if u have the $$$ go for the EBC, just be aware some EBCs don't work well (or at all) w/the SEQUENTIAL setup. I hear the Greddy EZ & the Blitz DSBC (prob a better unit) work well.
BTW the DP eliminates the kitties, so yes it will void the warranty. however u could just bolt them back on.
I would do the DP, BCC, boost gauge & bleeder 1st. Then later do the exhaust then intake. unless of course u plan to buy it all at once ;-) then even later u may want to try an EBC.
I have been running w/a bleeder for 4 years w/no probs. BTW you'll notice supras run VERY RICH (toyota being conservative again). get a fuel tuner (VPC/AFC) and lean it a little for even more HP.
BTW It just occurred to me that mkiv.com most likely has all this info in detail. And don't accept anything I say as fact (until u have verified it). good luck!
[ June 09, 2001: Message edited by: twinturboman ]
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
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