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Sleeper King
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2,235 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well,
I wanted to baseline the car before it went in the garage for storage. So I ended up going to the dyno.


Car:
94 TT
6spd
64,000 miles

Mods:
BCC
RMM dp
RM exhaust
HKS intake
HKS EVC EZ
HKS Cam Gears, set to 0 degrees
100 octane

I ended up being there for 2 1/2 hours and made 12 runs for the low low price of $125 bucks :)

Besides the baseline I wanted to tune the cam gears, but believe it or not, I got the best hp/tq out of just bpu, cam gears set to stock. I just think we need to play around with the settings alittle more.

Well, the best dyno run was

429.9 rwhp corrected
419 rwtq
I will have the graph and chart loaded online today or tomorrow.
To say the least I was pretty happy with the pulls, they were all very consistant, and the car felt really strong. Even the domestic guys at the shop were damn impressed:eek:
 

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Sleeper King
Joined
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2,235 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
going from memory, the uncorrected number was around
444 rwhp. I am waiting for my buddy to email me my graphs. I will get the exact number then and I'll post the pics of them too.
 

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Sleeper King
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2,235 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
thats a good question :)

There is a correction factor based on temperature, pressure/altitude, etc... the dynojet we used had a probe (bulb) that measured temp, and some other factors, and it figures accordingly with the dyno software.

I was pretty interested in finding out more on this too.
If anyone has any info please post. Is there a formula to use to?
just curious


chris
 

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Sleeper King
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2,235 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
thanks chappy!
No bench racing for me :D

by the way, anymore pics of your car, and what kind of rims are those?
 

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Moderator
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4,109 Posts
BLITZSUPRA said:
What are the formulas/standard temps, etc. to correct dyno numbers?
This webpage has a calculator that should help...
 
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quickturbo

I was wondering where you get your car dynoed at? Also, what else did you do to get the highest rwhp possible? Ice, fan, etc.,etc.:cool:
 

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Sleeper King
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2,235 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
mk4play,
Basically, we just reset the ecu every run, and let the car cool off with a huge fan! :) and gave enough time between each pull to cool off a bit.

The place we went to is called Snooks. He builds race cars/motors, mostly circle track, drag motors. Great guy!!

by the way, your a local chicago guy, do I know you?
just curious
 

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Registered
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1,196 Posts
I believe the purpose for reseting the ecu is to get rid of any error codes that could have come up. I may be wrong, but that is my best guess. The guy that helped me had me reset the ecu a couple times too.
 

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Sleeper King
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2,235 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I was hitting around 1.3 bar

As far as resetting the ecu, The computer has a tendency to have a memory. When the engine sees some knock it will retard the timing. By pulling the ecu fuses and resetting, you clear any memory that may have been stored.

I just dyno'ed bpu+ this week. New fmic.
Well, we found out I have a leaky bov. However, with the new fmic and on pump gas this time. I still got 436rwhp, and 486rwtq corrected!!



chris
 
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But it's retarding timing because the engine is knocking on the dyno...so, by resetting the ecu over, and running repeatedly, aren't you continuously knocking the engine? Doesn't sound like a great idea:( But, i guess its worked out fine so far :)
 

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Were you running TTC? If not how did you get transition at ~3600? I didn't transition until 4k, and hit full boost at ~4500. The other sucky part is that this dyno had no wide band, so my VPC and SAFC remain at nuetral. I really need to figure out why I wasn't getting more boost.
 
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