Well,
I wanted to baseline the car before it went in the garage for storage. So I ended up going to the dyno.
Car:
94 TT
6spd
64,000 miles
Mods:
BCC
RMM dp
RM exhaust
HKS intake
HKS EVC EZ
HKS Cam Gears, set to 0 degrees
100 octane
I ended up being there for 2 1/2 hours and made 12 runs for the low low price of $125 bucks
Besides the baseline I wanted to tune the cam gears, but believe it or not, I got the best hp/tq out of just bpu, cam gears set to stock. I just think we need to play around with the settings alittle more.
Well, the best dyno run was
429.9 rwhp corrected 419 rwtq
I will have the graph and chart loaded online today or tomorrow.
To say the least I was pretty happy with the pulls, they were all very consistant, and the car felt really strong. Even the domestic guys at the shop were damn impressed
going from memory, the uncorrected number was around
444 rwhp. I am waiting for my buddy to email me my graphs. I will get the exact number then and I'll post the pics of them too.
There is a correction factor based on temperature, pressure/altitude, etc... the dynojet we used had a probe (bulb) that measured temp, and some other factors, and it figures accordingly with the dyno software.
I was pretty interested in finding out more on this too.
If anyone has any info please post. Is there a formula to use to?
just curious
mk4play,
Basically, we just reset the ecu every run, and let the car cool off with a huge fan! and gave enough time between each pull to cool off a bit.
The place we went to is called Snooks. He builds race cars/motors, mostly circle track, drag motors. Great guy!!
by the way, your a local chicago guy, do I know you?
just curious
Do you know what your peak boost was on those pulls? I ask because I just went to the dyno, and was only able to get 17psi. Managed 436hp and 430tq though.
I believe the purpose for reseting the ecu is to get rid of any error codes that could have come up. I may be wrong, but that is my best guess. The guy that helped me had me reset the ecu a couple times too.
As far as resetting the ecu, The computer has a tendency to have a memory. When the engine sees some knock it will retard the timing. By pulling the ecu fuses and resetting, you clear any memory that may have been stored.
I just dyno'ed bpu+ this week. New fmic.
Well, we found out I have a leaky bov. However, with the new fmic and on pump gas this time. I still got 436rwhp, and 486rwtq corrected!!
But it's retarding timing because the engine is knocking on the dyno...so, by resetting the ecu over, and running repeatedly, aren't you continuously knocking the engine? Doesn't sound like a great idea But, i guess its worked out fine so far
Were you running TTC? If not how did you get transition at ~3600? I didn't transition until 4k, and hit full boost at ~4500. The other sucky part is that this dyno had no wide band, so my VPC and SAFC remain at nuetral. I really need to figure out why I wasn't getting more boost.
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