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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i attempted to fix the leak for about the 4th time since i've been NA-T. tightened up the bolts and 1 kept spinning. took it out, tried running a 7mm tap through instead of the 6mm that i used initially but couldn't get it started due to lack of room to work with. anyways i put a 7mm bolt in there and everything was fine until it snapped just as it hit the washer. snapped flush with the oil pan :(

it sucks because there is no room to get a drill in there to drill it out and retap it. i'm thinking of drilling it somehow and using one of these 5/16" self tapping bolts. what do you think about these?

http://www.shakyparts.com/910_1260_self_tapping_bolt.html

i am so ready to sell this car because of shit like this. one of these days i am selling for a BONE STOCK TT!!!
 

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feeding your habit
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you will need a right angle drill and a small bit .060-.070". Sand or file a flat surface on the broken stud. Then center punch it. Be patient doing this, a little time up front and you will have it out fast. Rushing and you will be dropping the pan. Out of the car.

Drill the bolt and use an easy out. Once it's out drill both holes for an M8 fastener. Use the correct size tap drill (6.8mm/.267") Tap with an M8 tap with plenty of diff oil to lube the threads. The reason your bolt broke is probably because you were not perpendicular to the surface so invest in a tap guide so you get it right this time.

Then use a M8 socket head cap screw and a washer. Lube the threads and the washer a bit. What kind of return plate are you using? If it's the correct type you can just use a stock TT return gasket and you will be set.

I sell the return plates, if you need one just let me know.

If you're worried about it sealing well, first off be sure you've identified the leak (is it the fitting or the flange or ?) then use a little RTV sealant - be sure to clean the area well with acetone or alcohol before applying a thin (very thin) skim to both sides of the gasket.

Then tighten it but don't over tighten it and do not start the motor until the RTV has had time to cure (normally 24 hours).

You will iron out these issues....
 

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Edge On The GE-T Epidemic
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Its important that when you do your own work you use the best hardware you can get your hands on. Depending on the shape of the surface exposed to you you can either drill it or if its pertruding a bit make a notch in it with a dremel cutting wheel. Leave drilling out as the last resort as its going to be the hardest. If you have the Boostlogic gasket supplied that return is going to leak no matter how tight you make it. I Would suggest making your own gasket, making sure the return flange surface is flush aswell, you can use some permatex Copper gasket maker as dressing. Good luck dont get too upset.
 

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feeding your habit
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once its out and tapped for a new fastener, just use the OEM toyota gasket. About $2. Standard stock twins return flange gasket.
 

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I sell the return plates, if you need one just let me know.
Do you have a pic?
and what's the benifit of the return plate?

My return line is made up of earls fittings drilled into the hole on the block thats used by the tt oil return line...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Drill the bolt and use an easy out. Once it's out drill both holes for an M8 fastener. Use the correct size tap drill (6.8mm/.267") Tap with an M8 tap with plenty of diff oil to lube the threads. The reason your bolt broke is probably because you were not perpendicular to the surface so invest in a tap guide so you get it right this time.
i've heard of these "easy out's" before, but never used them. can you google the right one i should use and send me a link. not sure what size/spiral i need.

also, you say drill holes for a M8 fastener? you just mean for an 8mm bolt?
 
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