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mc booster
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Hey guys supper happy I just got my 6 puck clutch in the mail. But other then that I geting ready for the track and I had two broken Lug studs on my car. {1 in the front 1 in the back same side go fig.} I posted on here a long time ago about changing the front one and how I didn't see a way with out pulling the wheel brg out. Today I changed the rear one and just wanted to look at the front one. I came up with this crazy idea to cut the metal behind the hub and fold it back just a lil bit. {i can take pics tomm. If anyone is Intrested} I did that and taped the old one out with my hammer and slid the new one in. super easy. I blew out the shavings and put it all back together. {If you need brakes doing this at the same time is a good idea} Hope this helps some one.
 

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I gots deep pockets cuz
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Yea show me some pics. I took the whole spindle to the dealer and they wanted more to do it than the car was worth so I just bought another spindle of someone here on the site. so now I have a spare spindle laying around
 

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Grumpy Old Man
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Yep always better to butcher and half ass a job than do it properly and spend maybe an hour more..... <sarc>
 

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Yup tried this myself not too long ago. It takes a while to get access, it's messy as hell and after all is said and done you have to make sure to put the "lid" back again. If it touches the abs sensorwheel you're fucked.

The worst part is that you need to pull the studs into the hub if you do it that way. Thing is... you need more Nm to pull the bolts in than what the bolts can handle.

Like Ian said, take out completely. Yes you need a press and an hour or 2 more. But it'd rather spend an hour more or have it done by a shop... than having my wheels overtake me on the freeway.
 

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I pulled the dust shield back and did mine.

Simple solution to a "harder-than-it-has-to-be" problem. Will not destabalize the wheel at all. If anything, pulling the hub, reinstalling, and aligning poses more risk to something else getting messed up along the way.

Cut the metal shield in a way that you can slightly bend back, pop out and replace the stud, then bend this tab back. I don't mind the cuts into the dust shield and there's no additional noise from it. I really suggest that you take the time to cut a small hole (about 1" in diameter) and then plug with a grommet/rubber plug.

If you're just fixing broken lugs, this is what I would do (and have done). If you are going to do other suspension work, then it makes sense to remove the hub and replace the lugs in addition to the other work you're already doing.

When/if the time comes that I have to remove the hub for a bearing fix or something, I will replace the dust shield with another one (with the hole cut out instead).

 

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Grumpy Old Man
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15+ year old car chances are the wheel bearings are fucked and need to be replaced anyway.....

Guess I just like a reliable car is all.
 

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Always playing catch up
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they should, but as long as your going to do it go the extra mile and get the ARP ones IMO

<l><l>
 

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Oh jeez, ppl if you so desperately want to butcher your car, by all means go ahead. Just don't brag about it being THE way. It clearly isn't. The dustcover that you just butchered is there to protect the hubs' ABS part. You don't want dust, brakedust or anything else in there.

I'd think that most of you learned by now. Don't cut corners on these cars... Tell me Satan, how did you get the new stud(s) to fit snug in the hub ? Pulled it in with an impactgun right ? How much Nm do you think that put on the stud that was designed to take about 75Nm ? Most impactguns start at at least double that....

Like i said, do what you want to your own car, it's yours either way. But don't try to impose that this is the best way to do it, even if it does save you an hour or two. I recently replaced all front wheel studs and i pulled both hubs and disassembled them properly. I did not fuck up a bearing, i merely had to replace two nuts.
 

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Okay, okay already...

This is what I did and feel as if I did not affect the integrity of my dust shield (anything noticable anyways). And no, I just had a broken stud... wheel bearing, alignment, and other suspension components were not being touched at the time for any other issues. Why replace the bearing that does not usually fail, even in a 15-year old car... because of 1 broken stud?

Pulled the studs through, just like you do 'em on any car. It does not take any additional torque to pull 'em through, unless you're doing it wrong (it was easy for me and did not feel extra tough). Did not use an impact gun... ratchet and socket, slowly (compressor was not hooked up yet).

The shield has two small slices in it and that does not affect the overall performance of the "dust" shield. It's actually there for a few reasons and only helps to reduce the amount of dust (if you remove it, I promise there will still be dust behind it). It it more for effectiveness at keeping small rocks/debri from hitting the hub as you're driving.

This is what I did and am confident/comfortable with it, but you can do whatever you're comfortable with. The right way, is a mater of opinion. The TRSM says alot of great things and I use it as a general tool, but there are some things that can be done differently and I chose to do so in this particular situation.
 

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15+ year old car chances are the wheel bearings are fucked and need to be replaced anyway.....
unless the car has been bounced sideways off curbs, no.

If the bearings aren't making noise, there is no point replacing them. My rears with 260k kms looked as good as the bearings that were replacing them (replaced because i sandblasted and painted the hubs).
 
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