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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone, I'm new to the forum and new to building a 2J! I'm super excited. I've combed through doing research for the build and was going to post all my expected parts and wondering from people who are more experienced than me if it seems okay and what I will need along with my current parts list. My goal is a fun street drivable 600-700 hp build that will maybe be tuned down to 550ish for safety. Wanting to run E85 and

Current Parts List (Main parts not all the small stuff)
  • Stock GTE Pistons (If anyone has some for sale I'm interested) I'm not quite sure how well these do with power if I get better rods or if I should bite the bullet and upgrade them.
  • Eagle Forged Rods (with ARP better bolts, not the old bad ones)
  • ACL Race bearings all around main and rod
  • Arp Main and Head studs
  • PHR upgraded oil pump (not 100% how necessary this is)
  • BC spring and retainer kit
  • GSC Valve stem seals
  • OEM head gasket
  • Drift motion 6765 turbo kit (I've heard good things about these. Would slowly be upgraded to Precision turbo etc.)
  • Deepmotor FFIM (again for now but would slowly upgrade to a better one, unless these are just fine)
  • DW 1000cc injectors
  • Dual fuel pumps (not 100% sure which ones are best for the money)
  • Wiring Specialties harness
  • EMU Black (not sure if this is good or I should get something else like a haltech)
  • Chase Bays Aluminum radiator
  • ZF Getrag 5 Speed (easier since I'm doing a BMW build)
  • PMC Adapter kit

I would love to hear if these all seem okay and if there is anything I should change up or add :)
 

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For 550-700 horsepower, you could probably use the factory rods. Having said that, upgraded rods are always a plus.

The oil pump is probably overkill, but again, upgraded is a plus.

1000cc injectors with E85 and 700 horsepower will not be enough (safely). ID1300s or FIC 1440s are a better choice.

Its hard to beat the price and reliability of a Walbro 450lph (274) pump.

Haltech, ECUMaster, etc. will all be able to do what you want. Some have more bells and whistles, but all do the same thing.

You mention valve springs, retainers, etc., but no cam. Without an aftermarket cam, you could probably just get by with valve stem seals and nothing else. IF you really want to make 700 horsepower, your gonna have to look at a 264 cam at a minimum (not to say its impossible to make 700 on a stock cam). I just went through tuning my car with both a stock cam and a Kelford C cam, and the difference is night and day. The stock cams (233 duration) will fall off a cliff after 6,200 RPMs. The 264/272 will pull all the way up to 7,500 with ease (where the valve spring and retainers will be needed).

My last advice would be don't build it half ass with the intention of upgrading later. Do it once, do it right even if it takes a few extra years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
For 550-700 horsepower, you could probably use the factory rods. Having said that, upgraded rods are always a plus.

The oil pump is probably overkill, but again, upgraded is a plus.

1000cc injectors with E85 and 700 horsepower will not be enough (safely). ID1300s or FIC 1440s are a better choice.

Its hard to beat the price and reliability of a Walbro 450lph (274) pump.

Haltech, ECUMaster, etc. will all be able to do what you want. Some have more bells and whistles, but all do the same thing.

You mention valve springs, retainers, etc., but no cam. Without an aftermarket cam, you could probably just get by with valve stem seals and nothing else. IF you really want to make 700 horsepower, your gonna have to look at a 264 cam at a minimum (not to say its impossible to make 700 on a stock cam). I just went through tuning my car with both a stock cam and a Kelford C cam, and the difference is night and day. The stock cams (233 duration) will fall off a cliff after 6,200 RPMs. The 264/272 will pull all the way up to 7,500 with ease (where the valve spring and retainers will be needed).

My last advice would be don't build it half ass with the intention of upgrading later. Do it once, do it right even if it takes a few extra years.
Wow this is great. Thank you so much! Yeah cams were something I wasn’t sure if it was needed to go over the 600 ish range but that’s great to know. I’ll look into cams. I know 276 is really common but also impossible to find rn. So I’ll look at 272 maybe.

The fuel injectors is also great to know. I’ve never needed to go above 1000cc on my cars I’ve built before so that’s awesome to know. I guess my question would be if I wanted to swap turbos and go for 800+ down the road should I get even bigger injectors than the 1440?

For the pump will I only need one? I know a lot of people going for 1000+ in some builds use dual. What would be the power limit of one?

For the rods I plan on upgrading but it’s the pistons I was going to keep stock. I just don’t know if they would be fine for my power goals.

Overall thank you for the response. Brought some new questions sorry but also answered stuff I needed thank you!
 

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  • Stock GTE Pistons (If anyone has some for sale I'm interested) I'm not quite sure how well these do with power if I get better rods or if I should bite the bullet and upgrade them.
If you are running stock pistons, then I'd probably stay with the stock rods. Never understood stock pistons with aftermarket rods, bit of a bittersweet upgrade. If you are running GE block with no oil squirters then might be advisable to just go to an aftermarket piston. Although you can get away with stock pistons with no squirters, need to make sure the tune is on point as the cast oem pistons will be more "brittle" compared to their aftermarket counterparts hence the oil squirters to keep them cool. If you overheat or detonate on a stock piston then you can break the ringlands on them. If you can I'd do upgraded rods and pistons, or stay full oem.

  • Eagle Forged Rods (with ARP better bolts, not the old bad ones)
Fine to use, make sure you or your machinist checks the clearances on the rods on big/little ends as these rods sometimes have machining issues from when they come out the box.
  • ACL Race bearings all around main and rod
Fine
  • Arp Main and Head studs
Fine
  • PHR upgraded oil pump (not 100% how necessary this is)
Personally I'd just stick with OEM oil pump. Using TT oil pump on GE block will give you a nice bump in oil pressure which is welcome with bigger power/higher revving setups.
  • BC spring and retainer kit
Fine
  • GSC Valve stem seals
Fine
  • OEM head gasket
Fine
  • Drift motion 6765 turbo kit (I've heard good things about these. Would slowly be upgraded to Precision turbo etc.)
Can't comment as never used, just make sure the manifold has a suitable wastegate and port location so you can run a bigger/more efficient turbo in future without having to redo your manifold etc.
  • Deepmotor FFIM (again for now but would slowly upgrade to a better one, unless these are just fine)
These are good considering the money, have run silly power through them. The only issue I've had is the throttle bodies sometimes having issues with the throttle plate moving and getting stuck, otherwise no major issues.
  • DW 1000cc injectors
Personally I prefer FIC or ID over DW as they seem more consistent to me, but could be conicidence.
  • Dual fuel pumps (not 100% sure which ones are best for the money)
Two x Walbro 450 or 485 will be plenty. For power goals no point in dual 525's I'd say, and then you dont need to worry about the lack of checkvalves built into the pumps.
  • Wiring Specialties harness
  • EMU Black (not sure if this is good or I should get something else like a haltech)
Unless you are tuning the ECU yourself, check whatever your tuner is confortable using as the end result will be better. Most standalones these days are competitive in delivering a package that can run a street Supra.
  • Chase Bays Aluminum radiator
Fine
  • ZF Getrag 5 Speed (easier since I'm doing a BMW build)
Fine
  • PMC Adapter kit
Just make sure it's their latest kit, the early ones were a bit poo. They redesigned how the flywheel locates itself in newer releases and made the conversion much nicer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
  • Stock GTE Pistons (If anyone has some for sale I'm interested) I'm not quite sure how well these do with power if I get better rods or if I should bite the bullet and upgrade them.
If you are running stock pistons, then I'd probably stay with the stock rods. Never understood stock pistons with aftermarket rods, bit of a bittersweet upgrade. If you are running GE block with no oil squirters then might be advisable to just go to an aftermarket piston. Although you can get away with stock pistons with no squirters, need to make sure the tune is on point as the cast oem pistons will be more "brittle" compared to their aftermarket counterparts hence the oil squirters to keep them cool. If you overheat or detonate on a stock piston then you can break the ringlands on them. If you can I'd do upgraded rods and pistons, or stay full oem.

  • Eagle Forged Rods (with ARP better bolts, not the old bad ones)
Fine to use, make sure you or your machinist checks the clearances on the rods on big/little ends as these rods sometimes have machining issues from when they come out the box.
  • ACL Race bearings all around main and rod
Fine
  • Arp Main and Head studs
Fine
  • PHR upgraded oil pump (not 100% how necessary this is)
Personally I'd just stick with OEM oil pump. Using TT oil pump on GE block will give you a nice bump in oil pressure which is welcome with bigger power/higher revving setups.
  • BC spring and retainer kit
Fine
  • GSC Valve stem seals
Fine
  • OEM head gasket
Fine
  • Drift motion 6765 turbo kit (I've heard good things about these. Would slowly be upgraded to Precision turbo etc.)
Can't comment as never used, just make sure the manifold has a suitable wastegate and port location so you can run a bigger/more efficient turbo in future without having to redo your manifold etc.
  • Deepmotor FFIM (again for now but would slowly upgrade to a better one, unless these are just fine)
These are good considering the money, have run silly power through them. The only issue I've had is the throttle bodies sometimes having issues with the throttle plate moving and getting stuck, otherwise no major issues.
  • DW 1000cc injectors
Personally I prefer FIC or ID over DW as they seem more consistent to me, but could be conicidence.
  • Dual fuel pumps (not 100% sure which ones are best for the money)
Two x Walbro 450 or 485 will be plenty. For power goals no point in dual 525's I'd say, and then you dont need to worry about the lack of checkvalves built into the pumps.
  • Wiring Specialties harness
  • EMU Black (not sure if this is good or I should get something else like a haltech)
Unless you are tuning the ECU yourself, check whatever your tuner is confortable using as the end result will be better. Most standalones these days are competitive in delivering a package that can run a street Supra.
  • Chase Bays Aluminum radiator
Fine
  • ZF Getrag 5 Speed (easier since I'm doing a BMW build)
Fine
  • PMC Adapter kit
Just make sure it's their latest kit, the early ones were a bit poo. They redesigned how the flywheel locates itself in newer releases and made the conversion much nicer.
Thank you thank you!
As far as tuning goes I’m not quite sure where to get it tuned when it’s build I live in San Diego which I feel has very few performance tuners. Now I’ve thought about learning how to tune but I know that the tune is extremely important so I don’t want to mess up. Nice to know the stock oil pump should be okay. Also goo to know the old pmc kits were bad. Thanks you for the info!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
  • Stock GTE Pistons (If anyone has some for sale I'm interested) I'm not quite sure how well these do with power if I get better rods or if I should bite the bullet and upgrade them.
If you are running stock pistons, then I'd probably stay with the stock rods. Never understood stock pistons with aftermarket rods, bit of a bittersweet upgrade. If you are running GE block with no oil squirters then might be advisable to just go to an aftermarket piston. Although you can get away with stock pistons with no squirters, need to make sure the tune is on point as the cast oem pistons will be more "brittle" compared to their aftermarket counterparts hence the oil squirters to keep them cool. If you overheat or detonate on a stock piston then you can break the ringlands on them. If you can I'd do upgraded rods and pistons, or stay full oem.

  • Eagle Forged Rods (with ARP better bolts, not the old bad ones)
Fine to use, make sure you or your machinist checks the clearances on the rods on big/little ends as these rods sometimes have machining issues from when they come out the box.
  • ACL Race bearings all around main and rod
Fine
  • Arp Main and Head studs
Fine
  • PHR upgraded oil pump (not 100% how necessary this is)
Personally I'd just stick with OEM oil pump. Using TT oil pump on GE block will give you a nice bump in oil pressure which is welcome with bigger power/higher revving setups.
  • BC spring and retainer kit
Fine
  • GSC Valve stem seals
Fine
  • OEM head gasket
Fine
  • Drift motion 6765 turbo kit (I've heard good things about these. Would slowly be upgraded to Precision turbo etc.)
Can't comment as never used, just make sure the manifold has a suitable wastegate and port location so you can run a bigger/more efficient turbo in future without having to redo your manifold etc.
  • Deepmotor FFIM (again for now but would slowly upgrade to a better one, unless these are just fine)
These are good considering the money, have run silly power through them. The only issue I've had is the throttle bodies sometimes having issues with the throttle plate moving and getting stuck, otherwise no major issues.
  • DW 1000cc injectors
Personally I prefer FIC or ID over DW as they seem more consistent to me, but could be conicidence.
  • Dual fuel pumps (not 100% sure which ones are best for the money)
Two x Walbro 450 or 485 will be plenty. For power goals no point in dual 525's I'd say, and then you dont need to worry about the lack of checkvalves built into the pumps.
  • Wiring Specialties harness
  • EMU Black (not sure if this is good or I should get something else like a haltech)
Unless you are tuning the ECU yourself, check whatever your tuner is confortable using as the end result will be better. Most standalones these days are competitive in delivering a package that can run a street Supra.
  • Chase Bays Aluminum radiator
Fine
  • ZF Getrag 5 Speed (easier since I'm doing a BMW build)
Fine
  • PMC Adapter kit
Just make sure it's their latest kit, the early ones were a bit poo. They redesigned how the flywheel locates itself in newer releases and made the conversion much nicer.
Forgot to respond to the piston and rod part. Thank you good to know. I’ve thought about just doing stock for my power levels but at the same time I’m worried about longevity. I think I’m going to just go with full blown piston and rods. I’ll get eagle rods but if they aren’t perfect I’ll get BC or something equal.
 

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Which 2JZ-GE are you building? The Non-vvti with a distributor, or the VVTi version? That changes the formula a lot when it comes to the engine build and overall potential.

A healthy non-vvti will hold your HP goals just fine on a 100% stock longblock, aside from valvesprings/etc. Cams would be a good call but options are very limited for the Non-vvti GE because of the exhaust cam's distributor drive gear.

A 2JZ-GE VVTi, on the other hand, has a vastly superior cylinder head and ignition system and a well-tuned VVTi is a big improvement for mid range and spool. Downside is that the stock rods are glass, so building an engine as you've already described is mandatory for your HP goals. The GE VVTi has a superior oil pump and significantly better tuning control. But it's also a consideration for your choice of EMS - the EMU black works great either way but it has to be configured properly for it with the correct cam/crank sensors, ignition system, etc.

Otherwise you've gotten some great advice in this thread already 🍺
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Which 2JZ-GE are you building? The Non-vvti with a distributor, or the VVTi version? That changes the formula a lot when it comes to the engine build and overall potential.

A healthy non-vvti will hold your HP goals just fine on a 100% stock longblock, aside from valvesprings/etc. Cams would be a good call but options are very limited for the Non-vvti GE because of the exhaust cam's distributor drive gear.

A 2JZ-GE VVTi, on the other hand, has a vastly superior cylinder head and ignition system and a well-tuned VVTi is a big improvement for mid range and spool. Downside is that the stock rods are glass, so building an engine as you've already described is mandatory for your HP goals. The GE VVTi has a superior oil pump and significantly better tuning control. But it's also a consideration for your choice of EMS - the EMU black works great either way but it has to be configured properly for it with the correct cam/crank sensors, ignition system, etc.

Otherwise you've gotten some great advice in this thread already 🍺
Sorry forgot to put my engine in there. LOL. I am building a super clean VVTI out of an IS300 I found for $800 with 70k miles on it but was super well maintained. So the head is great but the bottom end internals need to be built.
 

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I wouldn’t say the stock head is great, the ports are quite restrictive stock and there is a lot of ground to be gained with a port and valve job, shimless buckets are a good idea too if your gonna do cams might as well do it. Also pics or no one believes you
 

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Sorry forgot to put my engine in there. LOL. I am building a super clean VVTI out of an IS300 I found for $800 with 70k miles on it but was super well maintained. So the head is great but the bottom end internals need to be built.
Word 🍺
Yep, a simple rods/pistons build would be just fine. Given the mileage and your power goals, just sourcing a set of good GTE rods, new rod bearings, and basically leaving everything else alone is also an option, depending on how much of a 'budget' build you want it to be. Quality rods & pistons with all fresh stuff in there is a damn good idea so long as your budget comfortably supports it, though.

Be mindful when choosing pistons that projected compression ratios are based on the GTE head; the GE combustion chamber has more volume so a 9.0:1 piston with a GTE headgasket under a GE head will be closer to 8.5:1. Lots of good info in this thread:

If you're planning on E85, I'd heartily advocate targeting a 9.0-9.5:1 CR. If you're going E85 all the time, 10.0:1 for sure. You can run pump premium with 10.0:1 compression but you'll definitely want cams to drop the dynamic compression ratio a bit. If that ends up being a bit too extreme for pump gas, though, you can always go to a thicker headgasket to drop the compression a little more.

I wouldn’t say the stock head is great, the ports are quite restrictive stock and there is a lot of ground to be gained with a port and valve job, shimless buckets are a good idea too if your gonna do cams might as well do it. Also pics or no one believes you
The 2JZ-GE VVTi head is the best factory JZ head made, as far as flow CFM per port is concerned. Sure, there's absolutely some gains with good porting, but even after a top shelf CNC port job from Headgames any JZ head is total garbage compared to a stock Honda K-series or many other modern cylinder heads out there. So 'quite restrictive' is pretty relative. The JZ engine is awesome for it's strength, not its cylinder head design, that's why we use bigass turbos :)
Sure, a port job is always nice, but with a quality port job often going $2k+ in added cost, it's simply not necessary especially for a budget build targeting ~550-700hp like the OP's. That money is much better spent elsewhere until someone is really serious about either setting a record with a given turbo, or otherwise playing min/maxing games for a Goldilocks-perfect setup.

Similarly, shimless buckets are a necessity with high lift cams and lots of RPM, but again, for the OP's purposes stock buckets with a shim adjustment will be fine for most drop-in cams with 9.5mm of lift or less. A valve job might be wise preventative maintenance on a higher mile engine, but if it's really a 70k mile engine I'd bet the OP could just do stem seals & valve springs and 'send it' quite effectively.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I wouldn’t say the stock head is great, the ports are quite restrictive stock and there is a lot of ground to be gained with a port and valve job, shimless buckets are a good idea too if your gonna do cams might as well do it. Also pics or no one believes you
LOL picking up the engine on Friday will DEFINETLY post pictures onto here to see what y’all think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Word 🍺
Yep, a simple rods/pistons build would be just fine. Given the mileage and your power goals, just sourcing a set of good GTE rods, new rod bearings, and basically leaving everything else alone is also an option, depending on how much of a 'budget' build you want it to be. Quality rods & pistons with all fresh stuff in there is a damn good idea so long as your budget comfortably supports it, though.

Be mindful when choosing pistons that projected compression ratios are based on the GTE head; the GE combustion chamber has more volume so a 9.0:1 piston with a GTE headgasket under a GE head will be closer to 8.5:1. Lots of good info in this thread:

If you're planning on E85, I'd heartily advocate targeting a 9.0-9.5:1 CR. If you're going E85 all the time, 10.0:1 for sure. You can run pump premium with 10.0:1 compression but you'll definitely want cams to drop the dynamic compression ratio a bit. If that ends up being a bit too extreme for pump gas, though, you can always go to a thicker headgasket to drop the compression a little more.



The 2JZ-GE VVTi head is the best factory JZ head made, as far as flow CFM per port is concerned. Sure, there's absolutely some gains with good porting, but even after a top shelf CNC port job from Headgames any JZ head is total garbage compared to a stock Honda K-series or many other modern cylinder heads out there. So 'quite restrictive' is pretty relative. The JZ engine is awesome for it's strength, not its cylinder head design, that's why we use bigass turbos :)
Sure, a port job is always nice, but with a quality port job often going $2k+ in added cost, it's simply not necessary especially for a budget build targeting ~550-700hp like the OP's. That money is much better spent elsewhere until someone is really serious about either setting a record with a given turbo, or otherwise playing min/maxing games for a Goldilocks-perfect setup.

Similarly, shimless buckets are a necessity with high lift cams and lots of RPM, but again, for the OP's purposes stock buckets with a shim adjustment will be fine for most drop-in cams with 9.5mm of lift or less. A valve job might be wise preventative maintenance on a higher mile engine, but if it's really a 70k mile engine I'd bet the OP could just do stem seals & valve springs and 'send it' quite effectively.
This is great. I didn’t know what compression to go with. Since I’m probably gonna do rods and pistons anyways just cause imma have the engine open. I was confused on if I should get 10:0:1 or either of the other ones. So I should get the 10:0:1 if I’m using oem head gasket? I’m not ever gonna go for over 1000whp on this car it’s gonna be a fun daily so 800 is even a stretch. I’m probably going to avoid any porting or boring out for now. I might do all the valve train tho just since again I’m already taking it apart mighty as well do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Can I ask you what you consider to be budget-ish? Trying to judge the numbers I was given for a NA-T build
For me budget means getting parts that are nice enough to run for a while but not need to be the fanciest thing. Also me doing all the labor. I think it really depends on how much you find stuff for. I’m getting the engine for super cheap. But pistons and rods anywhere from $1300-3000. I’m going the cheaper route cause I’m going for 750-800 not 1000+. But also small things like cam gears. Found some for cheaper $80 for both and a cam cover but you could spend $400 on it. I think my total for just engine will be around $5-6k but again doing labor all myself and that’s not counting for small stuff that could go wrong.
 

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This is great. I didn’t know what compression to go with. Since I’m probably gonna do rods and pistons anyways just cause imma have the engine open. I was confused on if I should get 10:0:1 or either of the other ones. So I should get the 10:0:1 if I’m using oem head gasket? I’m not ever gonna go for over 1000whp on this car it’s gonna be a fun daily so 800 is even a stretch. I’m probably going to avoid any porting or boring out for now. I might do all the valve train tho just since again I’m already taking it apart mighty as well do it.
Depends on which OEM headgasket you're using. If you use the GTE headgasket, you can go for 10:1 pistons and end up with about 9.5:1 ish (depending on machine work, deck height, actual cc dish of the pistons, etc)
If you use the OEM GE headgasket, you may end up with around 10:1 or slightly higher depending on machine work and again the exact cc dish of the pistons you pick.

Really this is a game of what fuel you plan to run, and how much you'd like the additional spool and response from having the higher static compression. E85 is godlike in that regard, but if you run E85-only combinations of compression ratio and camshaft, you'll be very limited in how much boost you can run on pump premium.

Personally, though, I'd go for 10:1 advertised with a GTE headgasket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Depends on which OEM headgasket you're using. If you use the GTE headgasket, you can go for 10:1 pistons and end up with about 9.5:1 ish (depending on machine work, deck height, actual cc dish of the pistons, etc)
If you use the OEM GE headgasket, you may end up with around 10:1 or slightly higher depending on machine work and again the exact cc dish of the pistons you pick.

Really this is a game of what fuel you plan to run, and how much you'd like the additional spool and response from having the higher static compression. E85 is godlike in that regard, but if you run E85-only combinations of compression ratio and camshaft, you'll be very limited in how much boost you can run on pump premium.

Personally, though, I'd go for 10:1 advertised with a GTE headgasket.
Luckily near me I have a bunch of E85 pumps. So since it’s not gonna be my only car I planned on using only E85. I will use the OEM gte head gasket so 10:1 pistons would be the best for me to get. Thank you so much for the info this has been super helpful.
 

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2004 325ci 2jz swap t56 6 speed.
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Super cool build. I actually am doing the same build as we speak. 2004 325ci is what I'm putting mine into. I tried the pmc adapter in August through drifthq and had nightmares with the kit. It is a new revised kit and 2 holes for the bellhousing didn't line up. I went back and forth for like a month with them showing pics and explaining. I ended up sending the kit back for a refund which was no hassle. They were great to work with. So I ended up biting the bullet and got ahold of Joel from grannis for his kit. Went for a budget build as well now it's not lol. But I went full diamond pistons, bc rods, bc retainer and springs, 264 bc cams (ordered in March and they just showed up...), fic 1200 Injectors, wiring specialties harness with ecu master black ecu, full radium fuel system. Lots of small extras with the project if your just starting but cool to see I'm not the only one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Super cool build. I actually am doing the same build as we speak. 2004 325ci is what I'm putting mine into. I tried the pmc adapter in August through drifthq and had nightmares with the kit. It is a new revised kit and 2 holes for the bellhousing didn't line up. I went back and forth for like a month with them showing pics and explaining. I ended up sending the kit back for a refund which was no hassle. They were great to work with. So I ended up biting the bullet and got ahold of Joel from grannis for his kit. Went for a budget build as well now it's not lol. But I went full diamond pistons, bc rods, bc retainer and springs, 264 bc cams (ordered in March and they just showed up...), fic 1200 Injectors, wiring specialties harness with ecu master black ecu, full radium fuel system. Lots of small extras with the project if your just starting but cool to see I'm not the only one.
Hell yeah dude that sounds awesome. I would love to know more about the transmission issues and what transmission you used? Was it the getrag? It sounds great and that’s the same car I’m going to put mine into I’m super excited
 

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Hell yeah dude that sounds awesome. I would love to know more about the transmission issues and what transmission you used? Was it the getrag? It sounds great and that’s the same car I’m going to put mine into I’m super excited
I used the one that came from the car so it was the getrag 5 speed. I was trying to be cheap and use it knowing I would blow it up at some point. But again I can send you pics of the bellhousing not mounting up properly and the messages saying it's the newest revision so they have some issues. Everything else worked fine like the clutch and transmission mounting to the bell. Seemed like a legit kit just they tried to make it better and didn't double check things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I used the one that came from the car so it was the getrag 5 speed. I was trying to be cheap and use it knowing I would blow it up at some point. But again I can send you pics of the bellhousing not mounting up properly and the messages saying it's the newest revision so they have some issues. Everything else worked fine like the clutch and transmission mounting to the bell. Seemed like a legit kit just they tried to make it better and didn't double check things.
Very interesting. I know plenty of aftermarket parts have issues but if I’m spending money especially as much as adapters are I want it to work LOL. Good to know tho. And yeah I plan on using the same transmission. I’m not 100% how much it can hold some people say 500 some say 700 some say 800 it’s everywhere so imma throw it in and see how it does.
 
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