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Buyers Guide for a Used MK3

41K views 21 replies 7 participants last post by  SupraTrey  
#1 · (Edited)
Ok guys this is going to be a guide for new people who are looking to buy a used mk3 supra! Since we dont have a thread that shows actual pics of where these cars rust this is going to be it! since i live in the rust belt (North East). my car should have all the common rust spots. But if i'm leaving a spot out (where mine isnt rusted) please post a pic and a description of where its located and ill add it to my post and we will get this in the FAQ.

Spare tire well:
ok so to start here is the rust in the spare tire well. it is usually around the edges right under the tire.
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Trunk drop off
When your going to look at a supra make sure you take off the little plastic removable panels on both sides of the trunk and stick your hand down in there or take the whole panel off and get a better look. If you feel rust or water its usually going to cause holes. these holes are in the metal behind the rear plastic bumper.
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this is the inner wheel well on my driver side. my passenger side is clean.
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Plastic Mud flaps in front of the Rear Wheels
ok so these were really bad on my car. if you take off the plastic vent thats on the door sill and use a flashlight and look into the hole and you see rust then take off the flaps and be prepared. You can see the black vent you take off in this first pic. this is the driver side:
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and passenger:
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Around the Windshield and Around the Targa
now i dont have pics of before but i have an after that been grinded and prepped but it will look like little bubbles under the paint
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Rear Bumper Support (Crash Bumper)
now this one suprised me. as i was taking off the back bumper all the little bolts that hold it to the support were breaking and only 1 came out. So as soon as i got it off i figured out why. and btw this is very unsafe
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part 2. will get pics tomorrow

All rust spots in and around the trunk area like the spare tire pocket, both rear and front side of the passenger and driver's wheel well are due to a high level of moisture building inside the cab. Initially caused by two failing gaskets in the rear of the car causing 3 hidden areas to FLOOD: Tail light gaskets and the lower hatch trim seals.

this plus 2 others are what hold the bottom piece of trim on the hatch down

this is the tailight gasket that wears out and gets brittle
The death of these gaskets can be dertermined by opening the trunk and removing the plastic interior panel that will be over head, under the hatch. If you notice the hatch leaking while opening the hatch or if you find water behind said panel - your lower hatch trim is leaking. If not, your tail light gaskets are leaking.

By this being said, if you find one of the rust spots you found in your trunk/quarters the other side should have a simular result.

Also what can be blamed as a minor problem would be the rubber cups your body trim clips into. If these have a chunk missing out of them it can possibly cause water to slowly drip in the cabin.

This water will natrually migrate and pool to the lowest points of the trunk. If you find water at those points, they are drain plugs at those locations. Once the water is fully removed and dry, undercoating that area would be wise.
 
#2 · (Edited)
This is general mk3 supra information posted by 87supramario
Alright I got something to work on... VIN numbers for those who are purchasing wondering what the car was stock.

Before buying a car, find out what it's true form really is and never count on what the seller says. However, because of the age of the car, it is very possible that the seller has no idea about it's changes in the past from previous owners. But if you catch the seller in a lie, never take anything he/she says seriously. Never!


Outlook

All 1986.5 MKIII Supra's are non turbo. Turbo models where only available as of 1987. In the middle of 88' (1988.5) there was a big change for the MKIII Supra in terms of cosmetics, some performance and some options that have been discountinued and some that became available. Depending on the production date (month) on your VIN Plate/Tag, a 1988 Turbo Supra is either a 3.729 or 3.91 LSD rear end. Your car would also have either the pre 89 yellow plugs or the grey 89+ plugs for the ECU. Note that the plugs are totally different and are not fully compatible. In 1990, more options became available.

Please look within the following link if you would like to know more details between years - http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?194124-Updated-Specs-and-Year-Changes-for-MKIII



VIN Numbers

Decoding site - http://www.analogx.com/cgi-bin/cgivin.exe?Mode=Decode





Digit 1 - World Manufacturer Identification

1 = USA: NUMMI
2 = Canada: TMMC
4 = USA: TMM & NUMMI
J = Japan


Digit 2 - Manufacturor

T = Toyota
N = NUMMI


Digit 3 - Vehicle Type

2 = Passenger car
3 = Multipurpose passenger vehicle
4 = Truck
5 = Incomplete Vehicle
6 = Bus


Digit 4 - Vehicle Description Section

?


Digit 5 - Engine

A = 4A-FE
B = 7A-FE
T = 5S-FE
?.... In this case, just reffer yourself to these engine codes:
GA70 (1G-E, 1G-FE, 1G-GE, 1G-GTE)
MA70 & MA71 (7M-GE, 7M-GTE)
JZA70 (1JZ-GTE) - Japan only


Digit 6 - Series

?

Digit 7 - Body Type or Passenger Restraint System

0 = ?
1 = Manual Belt
2 = Manual Belt w/ Airbag


Digit 8 - Model

E = Corolla
T = Celica
J = JZA70 Supra?


Digit 9 - Check Digit


Digit 10 - Model Year

A = 1980
B = 1981
C = 1982
D = 1983
E = 1984
F = 1985
G = 1986
H = 1987
J = 1988
K = 1989
L = 1990
M = 1991
N = 1992
P = 1993
R = 1994
S = 1995
T = 1996
V = 1997
W = 1998
X = 1999
Y = 2000
1 = 2001
2 = 2002
etc....


Digit 11 - Plant

O = TMC - Supra plants
C = TMM - Woodstock, Ontario, Canada
Z = NUMMI - Fremont, California
U = TMMC - Gergetown, Kentucky


Digits 12-17 - Plant Production Sequence



My car: JT2MA70LXG0000818 1986.5 Blue on Blue cloth, N/A sport packed W58. The last numbers are production numbers. Mine was made in January of 86' being the 818th MKIII ever made.

NOTE: Vehicle production lines can produce up to 5000 cars per month now-a-days. That number has not changed all that much since 86'.



For colours, check your door jamb. Not sure if it's going to be on the US drivers side of the JDM drivers side though in your case.

Example; 202 = Toyota black. All I remember. Check google for Toyota Paint codes.



Production numbers between 1986.5 and 1992 here - http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sh...owthread.php?606049-MKIII-Production-Numbers-86.5-92/page3&highlight=vin+number
I'm writing this thread up because every week we have a "what ratio do i have?" or "do i have an lsd?" thread. I will try to cover all the different axle ratios, codes, applications, and anything else related to toyota rears. Feel free to add to or correct me if I am wrong about anything.

First the axle code. To find your axle code look on the drivers side door jam for a white sticker. This is an example of a VIN sticker which has info like the VIN and options it had when it left factory.
Image

Underlined in red is the axle code. Now that you have the code, it's time to de-code.

In a MKIII supra the first character will be either the letter "F" or "G". "F" codes are for the 7.5in axle housings and were equipped on GA70 models, while "G" codes are for the 8in axle housings and were equipped on all others. Not all "F" and "G" differentials will be a dirrect fit into respectables Supras though because toyota used them on other models as well and might have variations, ie. output shafts.

The 2nd and 3rd characters will be a pair of numbers. These indicate the gear ratio.
01 = 3.30
02 = 3.36
03 = 3.55
04 = 3.56
05 = 3.70
06 = 3.89
07 = 3.90
08 = 4.11
09 = 4.22
10 = 4.38
11 = 4.44
12 = 4.63
13 = 4.79
14 = 4.88
15 = 5.13
16 = 5.29
17 = 5.60
18 = 5.71
19 = 5.83
20 = 6.17
21 = 6.67
22 = 6.78
23 = 6.83
24 = 7.64
25 = 4.56
26 = 5.57
27 = 3.36
28 = 4.30
29 = 4.10
30 = 3.73
31 = 3.91
32 = 6.59
33 = 7.50
34 = 6.78
35 = 7.64
36 = 4.78
37 = 3.58
38 = 3.42

Next the last character will be another number. This will determine if it's limited slip or open.
2 = 2 pinion Open
3 = 2 pinion LSD - Clutch
4 = 4 pinion Open
5 = 4 pinion LSD - Clutch
9 = Torsen (info on this is difficult to find but this seems to be the running consensus)

As far as applications, these are the ones I know of. Maybe some of you GA70 and JDM folks can shead light on some more.
G284 = 4.30 Open (7m NA w/o sport package)
G285 = 4.30 LSD (7m NA w/ sport package)
G299 = 4.10 Torsen (JZA70)
G305 = 3.73 LSD (7m 89+ Turbo)
G315 = 3.91 LSD (7m 87-88 Turbo)
Colors!!


Amethyst Metallic (920)
Black Metallic (204)
Black (202)
Black Ruby Pearl (206)
Blue Metallic (8J3)
Brown Metallic (4H1)
Burgundy Pearl (3H8)
Dark Blue Pearl (8E3)
Dark Blue Pearl (8G5)
Garnet Pearl (3K3)
Gray Metallic (167)
Ice Blue Pearl (8G2)
Light Blue Metallic (8D8)
Mahogany Pearl (4J7)
Maroon Metallic (3H2)
Medium Blue Metallic (8D4)
Medium Red Pearl (3H4)
(Platinum) Silver (Mist) Met. (176)
Red Pearl (3H1)
Super Red (3E5)
(Super) White (040)
(Super) White (050)
Teal Metallic (749)
White (043)
White Pearl (042)
White Pearl (051)
Beige/Brown (27A)
Dk Blue/Blue (24D)
Dk Blue/Lt Blue (21C)


Codes found in this very impressive site!! http://www.toyotareference.com/supra/1986-1992

You can find other Toyota/Lexus/Scion and Vintage paint codes on the top tabs.[/QUOTE]
 
#4 ·
This is great. I wish this was around a couple years ago when I bought my MK3. One thing that you could add is take someone that knows MK3s really well. So they can take a look at the underside of the car, as well as the engine bay, and tell you what's going on and what will need replacing soon. Because about a month after I got my car, it started to leak oil out of EVERY seal on my 7M. Plus the rebuild that was done to both the engine AND the turbo were horrible in quality.
 
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#5 ·
Nice thread, after checking all these areas it appears my car is still 99% rust free. Only bit of rust I have found on the entire car is on the hatch lock.
 
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#7 ·
This is a good idea. About time it get's brought up. I got to chime in and say that the reason of these rust spots should also be specified.

All rust spots in and around the trunk area like the spare tire pocket, both rear and front side of the passenger and driver's wheel well are due to a high level of moisture building inside the cab. Initially caused by two failing gaskets in the rear of the car causing 3 hidden areas to FLOOD: Tail light gaskets and the lower hatch trim seals.

The death of these gaskets can be dertermined by opening the trunk and removing the plastic interior panel that will be over head, under the hatch. If you notice the hatch leaking while opening the hatch or if you find water behind said panel - your lower hatch trim is leaking. If not, your tail light gaskets are leaking.

By this being said, if you find one of the rust spots you found in your trunk/quarters the other side should have a simular result.

Also what can be blamed as a minor problem would be the rubber cups your body trim clips into. If these have a chunk missing out of them it can possibly cause water to slowly drip in the cabin.

This water will natrually migrate and pool to the lowest points of the trunk where Jzamerican have mentioned in post1. If you find water at those points, they are drain plugs at those locations. Once the water is fully removed and dry, undercoating that area would be wise.

Another one is the 3 piece tail light seals failing.
 
#8 · (Edited)
^ absolutely true! My taillight gaskets are literally in 3 pieces on each side and my hatch weather stripping is torn in multiple spots. mario i added your post to my second one and ill get pics of my weather stripping and gaskets tomorrow
 
#10 ·
No they can rust anywhere in the us. There more prone to it where I live. And the only reason I'm keepin this shell is to say I've literally rebuilt the car from the ground up.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Buying a swapped supra

BUYING A 1JZ/2JZ SWAPPED SUPRA


Other then the ol' compression check, test drive and visuals they are many parts around the car that you should check. You should never take the sellers word for anything while purchasing a car.

First, check the VIN number and driver's door jamb to insure that what your being told and what you see are what is original and what is true. If you catch the seller in a lie, do not take anything else he/she says litterally. This buyers guide helps you inspect on what normally should have been done. Anything else, your on your own. Knowing about what trim it was from factory matters because this will varie on what parts you should be looking at. Swapped cars don't always have to be a risky purchase. Here are a list of some basic stuff you should look over besides the engine components;



Engine brackets/mounts/crossmember
Transmission
Driveshaft
Diff
Fuel pump/lines
Exhaust
Engine wire harness
Cooling System


- Engine brackets/mounts/crossmember -
-If the engine mounts are round (1989+) - 89'+ front crossmember & stock/made engine brackets was used.
-If the engine mounts are square (86.5'-88') - aftermarket engine brackets where used on the stock pre89 crossmember.
-AFTERMARKET mounts are another option. They are the semi solid poly's or the solid engine mounts. But even aftermarkets can be identified by it's shape.

NOTE: it is possible that a pre89 car would be running the 89'+ crossmember, it's popular.



- Transmission - Any MKIII transmission can be used.
- R154 vs. W58 - to tell them appart - http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=MT&P=5
- A340E - Auto tranny's are the same for Turbo/Non Turbo cars but auto differentials varies between the year and trim please check here http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sh.../showthread.php?629561-R-154-vs-A340E&highlight=difference+between+r154+and+w58
- GETRAG MKIV TT 6 speed - It takes a lot of work to use this transmission. The trany tunnel needs to be widen, custom driveshaft, different diff and custom rear subframe.
- Any other tranny's found - your own your own. Check for leaks, whines, mounting wear, etc.

NOTE: there is a small difference between the W58 MKIII trannys and the MKIV trannys. But for the record, if you want more then 350HP you want the use the R154.



- Driveshaft - Very simple. Either aftermarket 1 piece driveshaft or the stock 2 piece Turbo drive shaft will be found.



- Diff - Ask the seller what diff it's running (ratio) and reffer yourself to what ratio is original to the car (please look @ link from A340E under Transmission).



- Fuel Pump and Lines - Ask the seller what pump he is running and if the lines and stock or aftermarket. Check lines for leaks. There is a list of pumps and can be used but the stock MKIII fuel pump should not be one of them. But whatever it is, it should NOT sound like a drill. Please reffer yourself to youtube to listen to what a fake Walbro fuel pump sounds like. Ask the seller if he has any receipts of the pump.

NOTE: it's best to pull the hanger to inspect the job eventually. Reffer to post #7 on how a fuel pump re wire should look like http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sh...showthread.php?472633-MKIII-Fuel-Pump-re-wire-HOW-TO&highlight=fuel+pump+rewire



- Exhaust - Very simple, it's never the best thing to find the stock exhaust system under a swapped car. This is something you can use to talk your price down if this is the case. Check for any leaks and if the Cat is present and intact for emmisions.



- Engine Harness/ECU - Last but not least, this is by far one of the most 'iffy' things about buying a used swapped car. You are going to need to know who made the engine harness. If the car acts up while starting, running or turning off, the RPM tacho and other gauges not working - the wiring might be done incorrectly or poorly. If you know for sure that the problem is not mechanical, then get ready to figure the wiring problem yourself or drop $1200 and have Dr.Tweak rebuild the harness here - http://www.supramania.com/forums/for...-d-Performance
- They are 3 ways that the harness can be done. Most common is to have the harness extended to plug into the factory dash/body harness. Another is running a patch/extension harness and this may by routed through the middle of the firewall also. Last and the most complicated way to monitor/inspect is swapping over the whole JZA70 engine harness AND body harness to the MA70 chassis - if it's this method and it works... then this should be the least of your worries because there is less fabrication to do so. Ask the seller how it was done.



- Cooling System - Another easy one.
- The 1JZ can run the stock 2JZ TT water pump, fan and clutch fan - very popular.
- The 1JZ also can be found running the JZA70 hydro fan - not very common unless the owner/previous owner purchased a donor front clip or JZA70 car. This is something you do not want to find parts for incase it breaks. Parts are very hard to find.
- Electric Fans - inspect the wiring job and it's signals and power sources along with it's brackets to be sure that it's a solid mount.

NOTE: finding the original radiator is not a bad thing but it's always best to replace the high mileage rad to keep the water pump from dealing with all that gunk. Look for any bubbles or leaks while the car is HOT.



Refferences;

The swap bible for the 1JZ, 2JZ and the 1.5JZ - http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...om/forums/showthread.php?153102-Your-1JZ-GTE-And-2JZ-GTE-Swap-Guide-For-Dummies

Parts list and some prices - http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?119858-1JZ-Swap-Parts-Into-a-MKIII-List

Dr. Tweak's engine harness service - http://www.supramania.com/forums/for...-d-Performance

OEM differential list - http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...n+r154+and+w58
 
#16 · (Edited)
My last post has been updated also^^ lol

(the paint code topic would be less confusing is it's to go under my VIN topic and above my swap topic)



Feel free to add to or correct me if I am wrong about anything.

This is an example of a VIN sticker which has info like the VIN and options it had when it left factory.
Image
Colors!!


Amethyst Metallic (920)
Black Metallic (204)
Black (202)
Black Ruby Pearl (206)
Blue Metallic (8J3)
Brown Metallic (4H1)
Burgundy Pearl (3H8)
Dark Blue Pearl (8E3)
Dark Blue Pearl (8G5)
Garnet Pearl (3K3)
Gray Metallic (167)
Ice Blue Pearl (8G2)
Light Blue Metallic (8D8)
Mahogany Pearl (4J7)
Maroon Metallic (3H2)
Medium Blue Metallic (8D4)
Medium Red Pearl (3H4)
(Platinum) Silver (Mist) Met. (176)
Red Pearl (3H1)
Super Red (3E5)
(Super) White (040)
(Super) White (050)
Teal Metallic (749)
White (043)
White Pearl (042)
White Pearl (051)
Beige/Brown (27A)
Dk Blue/Blue (24D)
Dk Blue/Lt Blue (21C)


Codes found in this very impressive site!! http://www.toyotareference.com/supra/1986-1992

You can find other Toyota/Lexus/Scion and Vintage paint codes on the top tabs.
 
#18 ·
Also, I recently rebuilt my tail lights and left the trunk interior out of the car and while I was washing the car, I get in to get my shammy and I noticed my hatch lid, trail light gasket, rear marker light gasket AND one of my body trim rubber cups leaking! So I took a few pics on my phone but I don't have itunes here so I'll let you know when there uploaded lol

It's fucking brutal
 
#20 ·
After months of searching I've come to learn something. It seems that some people are still getting leaks from an unknown source (On the hatch) and after a long time I have sourced that the three white clips under the bottom window trim seem to leak. These are the three clips that are actually propping the window up mind you. I used window sealant all around those three and I no longer have leaks.
 
#21 · (Edited)
more good info and pics!
87supramario said:
So finally I got to upload these pics and can't post in the thread because it's been moved to FAQ lol

If you can post these, look closely at the leaks. The rear side markers are leaking as well as the tail light gaskets and even those little rubber cups the plastic clips clip into to house the body trim!





In that last pic, above the leaking rubber cup, there was a drip of water that was dripping off the tail light that was captured in action in photo. It just looks like a white line really :sad:
 
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