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Discussion Starter #1
I've already done a search on the forum but my questions we're not answered to the fullest.

My mods are: Random Tech DP W/ High Flow Cats(supposed to be able to pass), Blitz sbc-ID, TRD exhaust (supposed to able to pass), bcc, and turbo timer.

Do you guys think I'm going to pass "the test" ? Is there anything I should do/know before I take it to get tested?

Any info would be greatly appreciated.:)

nike
 
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Discussion Starter #4
The Blitz boost controller will get you a fail if the technician notices it. If you want to be on the safe side, put your boost control back to stock before getting the test.

Ryan: where did you hear that the Random cat was so effective compared to the stock setup? Aftermarket cats are typically 60-70% efficient for HC/CO conversion, and only about 30% efficient for NOx, compared to >95% for the OE setup. If the Random cat is that good, I'm going to upgrade my current SPF/Carsound DP with a Random setup!

Bob
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Keep us posted on the results! On my smog check I ended up just putting the stock intake, cats and exhaust on and left the fmic, bov, and profec b installed. I passed with flying colors. But now that i have the random dp i am kinda interested how effective it will be at passing. If you post can you list all the mods you still had on the car during the test and your results if possible.
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Someone posted that they passed easily with the Random Tech. Just warm it up first and make sure you are running a stock gap on your plugs (for a clean burn).
 
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Discussion Starter #7
I'm going to try to pass the test with all the mods intact. I'll post my results when I take it to get tested on Friday or monday.

thanx for the input.:)

nike
 

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oh yes...the infamous smog test...i remember that...i had one done a few months ago. well i think i wouldve passed if it wasnt for my ecu and downpipe. went thru alot of shit. wish you luck man...i kinda lucked out and yeah...thats it. haha.

BTW...how often do we need to get smogged in california?
 
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Discussion Starter #9
pay that extra $$ and get a pre-test. trust me, its so worth it...

I had to put back my intake and CAT, left FMIC, BOV, and exhaust on and passed it barely. yes I did reset ECU and had boost control turned off, but my car was still running rich.

for FMIC , you need some # to proof its street legal. HKS is legal, I am sure all otehr FMIc is legal.
BOV is NOT legal. no # for BOV so the smog station can refuse testing your car.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
I think it's every two year's.after the first five year's.(new car's not for the first five).
 
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Discussion Starter #11
hey zerosoul -
have you investigated to why your car was running so rich. it looks like you had the same mods as me during the test yet i passed with flying colors? have you checked your 02 sensors or anything like that?
 
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Discussion Starter #12
on my pre-test, the guy told me I barely passed...something like 0.98% with max tolerance at 1%...not sure what it means, but I was very very close. however, on my second "smog run":D
I think it went down to 0.8% which is consider normal or "flying color".

I guess next time I will reset ECU and drive the car around for more than just couple of hours, maybe that was the problem...


my performance modes:

HKS EZ
DP
Intake
Exhaust
FMIc
BOV

oh, and O2 sensor is 1 year old, and plugs are NGK6097 200miles old.

Jonas
 
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Discussion Starter #13
ok..I have a dumb question...how do you reset the ECU? It's pulling a fuse for a certain amount of time right? If so, which fuse? Or am I just completely wrong?

nike
 
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Discussion Starter #14
I passed smog easily with my RT cat and DP. The only reason why I failed the first time was because my stupid Check Engine light wouldn't light up. The whole cluster wasn't working, and I found that the electrical connector had come unsoldered. I resoldered it, and all was well. I had very good results, and that was with boost controller in full view. I did have a fuel controller, but I think it was off. Don't remember. Just make sure you drive it to normal driving temp first. To reset the comp, the easiest way to do it is to undo the neg terminal of the battery. Wait a second or two, and then reconnect. Drive around for a while after that for the computer to recalibrate.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Maao said:
I passed smog easily with my RT cat and DP. The only reason why I failed the first time was because my stupid Check Engine light wouldn't light up. The whole cluster wasn't working, and I found that the electrical connector had come unsoldered. I resoldered it, and all was well. I had very good results, and that was with boost controller in full view. I did have a fuel controller, but I think it was off. Don't remember. Just make sure you drive it to normal driving temp first. To reset the comp, the easiest way to do it is to undo the neg terminal of the battery. Wait a second or two, and then reconnect. Drive around for a while after that for the computer to recalibrate.
Thanx for the quick reply man.:) I'll reset the ecu, drive around a bit, then take it in.

nike
 
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Discussion Starter #16
I left all the mods on the car and set the boost controller to "off" and did not reset the ECU.

Here are the results if anyone is interested.
 
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