First, you may want to consider painting them "on the car". I've done it both ways.
1- "On the car" - Scrub the caliper with a solution of Simply Green cleaner. Mask off the rotor with tape and newspaper. It's easier to mask along the seam that joins the front case of the caliper to the rear, rather than paint the entire caliper. You'll never see the backside anyway...
Spray a coat of 500 degree primer. Let dry for 30 minutes and sand lightly with 400 grit paper. Repeat the primer step once more. Carefully wipe down all flat surfaces of the sanded caliper face and spray one light coat of finish paint, also 500 degree stuff. Let it dry for several hours, sand lightly with 600 grit and spray the finish coat. You may want to spray with a blow dryer at this point to prevent drips. Once you strip away the masking tape and newspaper, you'll want to clean the overspray off of the rotor using brake cleaner fluid on a rag or laquer thinner.
2- "Off the car" - This is a much more messy deal than above. Three notes in advance: A- preorder a set of stainless steel brake lines if you don't already have a set on your car, B- pick up some Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, C- I think www.hardpipes.com sells a kit of "Supra" logo stickers to apply to the front face of your newly painted calipers.
Let's deal with the rears first: Loosen lug nuts, put the car up on jack stands, pull the wheels. Make sure the E-brake is down. Loosen the 12mm nut that attaches the brake line to the back side of the caliper. Remove two 19mm screws that hold the caliper onto the hub assembly. There is no need to tap this rotor if it seems to be stuck in place. Instead, drive two 10mm screws into the two tapped holes in the face of the hub to force the rotor off. Pull the rotor out of the caliper. Remove the screw that is connecting the brake line to the back side of the caliper. Use a large C-clamp to force both pistons as far into the inside of the caliper as they will go - without overdoing it. Prep and paint the caliper. and reinstall, including your new stainless steel brake lines.
Fronts: Loosen lug nuts, put the front end up on stands, remove wheels. Loosen the brake line screw. Remove the two large bolts that hold the calipers onto the wheel assembly. If the rotor seems stuck onto the hub, gently tap it with a rubber mallet.The rotor is free-floating and should easily pull away from the caliper. Duplicate the steps outlined above for the rear calipers.
Once all of the brake lines are in place - AND DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THEM - and the rotors are in the calipers and back on the car - have the entire brake system flushed and replenished with synthetic DOT 3 brake fluid. Once you expose the fluid to air (brake lines hanging in the breeze and caliper resevoirs open to air while painting...) it soaks up moisture and humidity and must be purged.
Good luck.
John
www.utahracing.com/supras/john.html
If you want to call me on this, feel free. 801-319-2309
1- "On the car" - Scrub the caliper with a solution of Simply Green cleaner. Mask off the rotor with tape and newspaper. It's easier to mask along the seam that joins the front case of the caliper to the rear, rather than paint the entire caliper. You'll never see the backside anyway...
Spray a coat of 500 degree primer. Let dry for 30 minutes and sand lightly with 400 grit paper. Repeat the primer step once more. Carefully wipe down all flat surfaces of the sanded caliper face and spray one light coat of finish paint, also 500 degree stuff. Let it dry for several hours, sand lightly with 600 grit and spray the finish coat. You may want to spray with a blow dryer at this point to prevent drips. Once you strip away the masking tape and newspaper, you'll want to clean the overspray off of the rotor using brake cleaner fluid on a rag or laquer thinner.
2- "Off the car" - This is a much more messy deal than above. Three notes in advance: A- preorder a set of stainless steel brake lines if you don't already have a set on your car, B- pick up some Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, C- I think www.hardpipes.com sells a kit of "Supra" logo stickers to apply to the front face of your newly painted calipers.
Let's deal with the rears first: Loosen lug nuts, put the car up on jack stands, pull the wheels. Make sure the E-brake is down. Loosen the 12mm nut that attaches the brake line to the back side of the caliper. Remove two 19mm screws that hold the caliper onto the hub assembly. There is no need to tap this rotor if it seems to be stuck in place. Instead, drive two 10mm screws into the two tapped holes in the face of the hub to force the rotor off. Pull the rotor out of the caliper. Remove the screw that is connecting the brake line to the back side of the caliper. Use a large C-clamp to force both pistons as far into the inside of the caliper as they will go - without overdoing it. Prep and paint the caliper. and reinstall, including your new stainless steel brake lines.
Fronts: Loosen lug nuts, put the front end up on stands, remove wheels. Loosen the brake line screw. Remove the two large bolts that hold the calipers onto the wheel assembly. If the rotor seems stuck onto the hub, gently tap it with a rubber mallet.The rotor is free-floating and should easily pull away from the caliper. Duplicate the steps outlined above for the rear calipers.
Once all of the brake lines are in place - AND DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THEM - and the rotors are in the calipers and back on the car - have the entire brake system flushed and replenished with synthetic DOT 3 brake fluid. Once you expose the fluid to air (brake lines hanging in the breeze and caliper resevoirs open to air while painting...) it soaks up moisture and humidity and must be purged.
Good luck.
John
www.utahracing.com/supras/john.html
If you want to call me on this, feel free. 801-319-2309
