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· Your Neighborhood Pikey
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3,480 Posts
Umm... Yeah...

Check your email. I just sent you a .PDF of the engine manual. You should find this very useful.

If you have any questions on shortcuts to make this faster, let me know. I haven't done it as much as Eric obviously, but I've got the swap down to 30 minutes now.


Chris
 

· ma70-7m=1JZ
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2,602 Posts
A quick question on the same topic, do you need to remove or replace the tensioner when loosening the T belt, for a cam swap?. cause I didnt remove it when I took it apart.
 

· Your Neighborhood Pikey
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3,480 Posts
becauseican said:
A quick question on the same topic, do you need to remove or replace the tensioner when loosening the T belt, for a cam swap?. cause I didnt remove it when I took it apart.

No, but you have to remove it and reset it. When you pull it, you will find that it has a hole in the pin. You need to align the hole with the holes in the top lip of the tensioner. To do this, you need to slowly compress the tensioner with a vise. Then you slide a pin through it, like a grenade pin. I personally always use an allen key small enough to fit through.

HTH.

- Chris
 

· Registered
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1,291 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the email HAMS.

I am ready to install my cams, but have a quick question. Do I NEED to remove the crank pulley for any reason when installing cams? I have a brand new timing belt on there, and no reason to change it. I was paging through the repair manual, and it says to take it off, but I can't see any reason to.

Is it like the 7MGTE? Can you line everything up at TDC, then leave the timing belt hanging/connected to the timing/crank pulley? It seems that way.

Thanks!
 

· Moderator, l337 M0d3r4t0r
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13,222 Posts
My short and sweet steps..


(This is assuming you already took off the cover for the cams)

#1 Line up everything TDC (especially the crank) saves you ALOT of time later
#2 break the cam 17MM bolts loose. (while timing belt is still on) easiest way to do it with out having a huge wrench
#3 pull the tensioner spring form under the crank
#4 put a big screw driver (flat head) down the timing belt on where the tension pulley is to push it back and give you some slack.
#5 Pull the belt, cam gears, backing cover.
#6 Pull valve covers, and cam caps
#7 pray to god you don’t have to shim
#8 install cams, and check clearances (recommend that you install the last front cap last to make sure the machine work was proper and you don’t touch the head.) Do an X pattern for tighten the cam caps like the HG job.
#9 spin the cams around to make sure they are spinning correctly and this should tell you if you have interference cams or not. Also you need to spin the engine a few times so they seat and you can check the shims.
#10 install everything after that shouldn’t be hard.
 
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