[Guest]

I've heard that the rear suspension can only be adjusted for Toe in/out.

Im getting the eibach pro-kit. So negative camber wont be excessive. But I want everything to be within factory specs, Front and rear.

 

[Norbie]

You need to get the rear subframe up higher, relative to the body. If you lower your car 2 inches, that means the wheels are 2 inches closer to the body. So if you raise the subframe two inches, the suspension geometry will be back to factory specs.

There are several ways to raise the subframe, but a quick and dirty way to get it an inch or so higher is to simply remove the 4 big rubber donut things it's mounted on. I've seen this done on a lowered Mk2 and the results are pretty good for the minimal effort involved.

 

[Guest]

Is there any negative side effects when your remove those bushings? Doesnt sound too good to me.

Any other ways. Perhaps I could have something made?

 

[Norbie]

The rubber donuts are there to isolate the body from vibrations in the suspension. Removing the rubber will simply make your car a little noisier in some situations, but you probably won't even notice it if you have an exhaust. You can offset this effect somewhat by inserting a thin piece of urethane in place of the rubber donuts.

Another way to raise the subframe is to have some material machined off the subframe itself where it mounts to the body. This method combined with replacing the big donuts will get you about 2 inches all up. This is what I'm going to do with my Mk2 after the engine conversion is finished.

 

[elhsupra]

I assume you have to remove the subframe connector bolts when you remove the donuts. Do you have to use a shorter bolt when you do this? Do you happen to know the torque specs for those bolts? Thanks!