Supra Forums banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Digital Dreamer
Joined
·
898 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey,
I have my engine on the ground and without most part, except for it has the head stil lon and cams in, which I'm stil ltrying to get off :rolleyes: but I tried breakign the crank bolt off and it just turned the crank and hopefully pushed the pistons into my valves since my cam belt is off and I think some valves are down right? Anyways, I really want to know if I'm at all capable of getting the bolt off in this state. I tried holding the pulley with my hands and using foot to kick the friggin ratchet but it still just turned the crank. And for one more situation I'm having, I have the cams almost out but the gears are stil lattached and the friggin plate is still between them, to remove the gears which are on pretty well, should I put the cam in a vice and ratchet the gear bolt off? I suppose I should have done that when the timming belt was attached, but I didn't and now i'n stuck. I really just need some help.
eric
 

·
25psi = 14" brakes :)
Joined
·
2,306 Posts
Put your timing belt back on and break your cam sprocket bolts loose first.

Do you have your transmission off the engine? If you do, the next part will be harder.
Get a good pry bar, and someone to help you.
Lock the crank with the starter teeth and the pry bar while you use a cheeter bar and 1/2" stocket to take off the crank bolt. You should have broken it free while the engine was still in the car. (Just takes a socket, breaker bar, and cheater pipe, and a quick crank of the motor while the bar is up tight to the frame rail. It is the easy way to get that dang thing loose.)

Good luck.
 

·
Digital Dreamer
Joined
·
898 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I actually bought the engine so I never had a chance at using the starter to break the bolt free. I guess i'l try the timing belt thing, I did that before, but the gear kept slipping under the belt so I figured it was over for that possibility. I als odon;t have the starter gear on the back, as the engine didn;t come with it, nor did it come with alt, starter, ps pump or resivoir, coils, or 3000 pipe. I'm pretty pissed at the crank bolt right now.
eric
 

·
25psi = 14" brakes :)
Joined
·
2,306 Posts
Do you have a flywheel or not?

If you do, just clamp the flywheel in place, it will hold the crank while you loosen the front bolt.

If you do not, your going to need a few "temp" bolts to fit into the crank, and a sacrificial tool or two. (I would suggest bolting a tool in place to the crank, it's not hard to do, just cut or drill the holes your going to need to locate the "tool" across the crank, brace that part and have at the front bolt.

Take care you don't crank, scratch or otherwise damage the crank while your doing this however.
 

·
Just some guy
Joined
·
1,681 Posts
One method I've used is to use either the dowles on the flywheel or a couple of screws screwed into the pressure plate bolt holes as stoppers. Use a pry bar or even better a squared tube and place them between two oppsoing dowels/screws. The 2 dowels/screws will rotate, catch the bar, then the end of the bar will hit the ground. THis will lock the crank in place and you can bust the pulley bolt loose.
 

·
2JZ Mk2
Joined
·
1,183 Posts
If you remove the cams, pull the plugs of two cylinders near TDC (either cylinders 1/6 2/5 or 3/4)and feed a whole bunch of rope into them. This should lock the engine up. Impact is the best way though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
1/2inch impact for sure if you have air, barrow or rent one its worth it, you will need it on the flywheel too, plus it makes breakin the crank caps loose alot easier and quicker.

Impact wouldnt get my crank pully off though. So instead of making out with it I just put the motor on a stand and layed it down on the ground...stood over it and took a exhaust pipe and put that over a 1/2inch breaker bar and it came right off. Mine was on TIGHT! I snapped a motor mount in two trying to get it off in the car.

The t-belt mistake you made could be a doosy, TAKE YOUR TIME AND READ ALOT and you'll be fine. Or there will be alot more mistakes like that to come.
good luck
 

·
Digital Dreamer
Joined
·
898 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
HAHAA YES!
Thanks to you guys I went down and in about 10 minutes I had my cams off. I put the belt and tensionner back on, and put a couple of the galleys back together, and the belt held the cams tight whilst I cracked the bolts free. Now I still have the crank bolt to deal with. I have no plates what soever behond engine, but I do have 5 or 6 holes on the back where the crank is, probably where a plate should attach, so I was reading the replies and this is what I came up with. Put bolts in the holes, wedge some metal pipe so when they turn it hits the ground, and use an impact wrench on the front bolt . I was just wondering if the bolt is so stuck, what's to stop the crank from making the engien fall on it's side and just rotating and this metal bar just kicking the bakc up and rotating around again?

ONE MORE THING GUYS!
On my oil filter thing, the part where it attaches to the block, it has one BIG bolt in it, looks like it's holding it to the block, do i have to crack that thing off somehow? I tried a few times and just bent my breaker bar. I have these 2 big bolts left and i'l be able to take out crank/pistons and have this block heat tanked!
I hope you guys can help with the oil bolt.
eric
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,649 Posts
The other method for the crank pulley bolt is to pull the oilpan and brace the crank against the side of the block with a block of wood.
 

·
Digital Dreamer
Joined
·
898 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I just tried using a bar to lock the rear using bolts in the holes, and using a ratchet on the front bolt. But I just ended up breaking the bearings in my ratchet as I hammered it so i'm kinda mad now. Is there such thing as a ratchet or bar that I can plug my socket into and just hammer it? I mean with a long handle for extra leverage, and I think it would break the bolt free. I als otried an electric impact wrench from home depot and it did nothing. This is friggin gay guys.
eric
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,649 Posts
Yes, they are called breaker bars, and they will take a LOT of pounding. You can put a cheater bar on one as well - just another long length of pipe that goes over the handle. If that doesn't break it loose, you'll have to drag the engine down to a professional mechanic and get them to bust it loose with their air powered impact gun.
 

·
wastegate hose is pulled
Joined
·
4,586 Posts
Heh, reminds me of a few weeks ago. I was helping a friend take his engine apart. We got down to the crank pulley and promptly broke the head off of the biggest 1/2" rachet he had. Went to Sears and got the longest breaker bar they had, jammed something between the crank and the block, I stood on the engine stand and he put a stock downpipe over the breaker bar and pushed with all his might. It picked me and the engine and stand up off the ground but the bolt stayed. I resorted to whaling on the end of the downpipe with a 5lb sledgehammer while standing on the edge of the engine stand. The bolt eventually came loose that way, sort of a home made impact gun. Have fun, it is exciting with minimal tools! At least we found a use for the stock downpipe!
 

·
DO WORK!!
Joined
·
2,275 Posts
WOW.... Do you know there is a plce to put a cresant wrench or a 24mm (I think) on the cam and then lossen the cam gear bolt....

I just cringe when I hear someone putting rope in there cylinders..... YIKES!!!

If you go to a rental store ask them if they have a battery operated impact gun... I have a snap on one and it took the pully bolt off in about 10 seconds. just keep it on there for a bit, it will spin right off.. again the snap on one is a powerfull one... not some el cheapo

If you dont have access to one of these the do the wood between the crank and the block method.


are heads are zero interferance so you dont need to worrie about anything hitting the valves.
 

·
Just some guy
Joined
·
1,681 Posts
turboa7mgte said:
I just cringe when I hear someone putting rope in there cylinders..... YIKES!!!
Then you probably don't want to hear about the time I took the head off, put a big socket on top of one of the pistons, then bolted the head back on to hold the crank in place :lol:

Of course I wasn't planning on keeping the motor :)
 

·
DO WORK!!
Joined
·
2,275 Posts
Racefiend said:
Then you probably don't want to hear about the time I took the head off, put a big socket on top of one of the pistons, then bolted the head back on to hold the crank in place :lol:

Of course I wasn't planning on keeping the motor :)

LOL Good one racefiend!!!!

So bigg easy, do you know you are going to need a puller to get the pully off? I am sure someone will tell you they did it with 2 pencals and a pitching wedge..... but you will need the correct puller to get it done.

Good luck!
 

·
Digital Dreamer
Joined
·
898 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Ya, I knew about the puller. I'l try and rent a better impact wrench i guess. I thought that the electric one I rented would have been sufficient tho. I was going to buy a breaker bar and hold the rear crank in place pushing up, and the front with a breaker bar pushing down. I hoped that would work cause the tool rental place is far away. Any thoughts?
eric
 

·
Señor Member
Joined
·
4,741 Posts
One of the best tools I ever bought was a chain wrench:



Attach to the crank pulley. Holds the crank in place as you use a breaker bar to pop the bolt main bolt off.
 

·
Digital Dreamer
Joined
·
898 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Looks pretty sweet. I bet it scrapes the pulley a lot tho. I managed to get the bolt of today. I used a bar between 4 bolts on the back of the crank and pinned it under heavy stuff ie. my friend and stuff, the nI used a 24" breaker bar on the bolt. took a couple mins, but it came around.
eric
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top