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Cant rev past 4K on idle and cant rev past 3k on load!!

5640 Views 28 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  mx73garage
Cant rev past 4K on idle and cant rev past 3k on load!! UPDATE

As the title describes 1JZ Soarer is not revving past 4K on neutral and reaches around 2800 - 3K before it starts to cut and will not let me rev past that, similar to a rev limitter oh yeah and no CEL codes

things i already checked:
-timing
-gaps on plugs
-igniter
-coilpacks
-compression on each cylinder
-checked cat
-changed plugs on coil packs
-checked map
-d/c safc II

I was searching something about the TPS, but I checked that also and ran 12v to the IDL wire near the TPS and no change
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knock sensors, cam sensor, crank sensor.
and ecu
i have that same problem with the power fc, but i'm throwing a knock sensor code and a code 13(rpm, but no clue why)
so it could be a sensor?

hmmmmmmm my stupid CEL is only giving me a code 12, but I dont think my CEL is working right. I dont know.

I know the crank sensor, wouldnt start up the car so I am leaning maybee to cam sensor and knock sensors.

also I cant find anyone who can replace caps here in detroit, no TV repair shop wants to work on it.
If you have no codes I would start with all the stuff that does not generate a code such as plugs and coils and go over your igniter wiring . Also check that it can generate codes buy unplugging the map or tps if you don't get any codes than you have an ecu problem , bad capacitor . If your car ran right before it's probably a bad component if it's not ever bean right since the swap most likely wiring issue
GOOD LUCK
i unplugges sensors to see if i can intiate a CEL but nothing just blinks code 12 only when i jump it otherwise it wont even show a CEL when i driving.

I dont think it was working from day one. always cutting out.
Code 12 is an rpm signal so check your cam angle and crank angle sensors for shorts and check the resistance of all three . Resistance should be the same as a 2jz-gte
if it was a bad crank angle sensor the car wouldnt start,

i unplugged the cam sensor, and its still the same thing no change. As for the other cam sensor, its PITA in the ass to get to, stupid intake and firewall and etc. stuff in the way.

I am sending in the ECU for repair, my last straw before i start changing sensors one by one. and if that fails a new wire harness is a must
unplug the ecu and the three sensors and check them for shorts , each sensor pin should have continuity between sensor pin and it's corresponding ecu pin and no continuity to ground also check for ground on the shielding for these three sensors in the harness by the ecu plug and at each sensor plug . The car can run with a bad sensor and it may or may not throw a code if you have a bad shielding ground the ecu can receive a bad signal due to rf noise caused by the other electronics in the car . Your code 12 is most likely a short or misswired cam angle sensor . Also I have seen the cam sensors fill up with oil causing them to short out , if this is the case I would clean the plug and sensor with degreaser and blow out with compressed air . Also if you remove your rear engine hook it's much easer to get to the rear cam angle sensor.
GOOD LUCK
i will try that, except for the ground,

doesnt each cam sensor have its own ground going to the ecu right?
With the ecu and sensors unpluged their should be no ground except for the shielding
take the coil pack cover off and check the connections to all the coils then wiggle and move the wire leads...the same thing happened to me when i first got my 1j running it was a wire to coil problem
would i check connections between igniter and coil pack or basically between igniter and ecu, to my understanding there 6 ignition signals going to the ecu and 1 ignition feedback signal.
would i check connections between igniter and coil pack or basically between igniter and ecu, to my understanding there 6 ignition signals going to the ecu and 1 ignition feedback signal.
Check the whole routing; from coilpacks to the ecu. You are correct on the 6 ignition and one feedback signal.
wouldn't the igniter and coils be code 14
ok so i found out that the wire between the IGF and the ECU was not working, so I ran a new wire from the IGF wire on the igniter side to the ECU.

NOW the car is misfiring and i smell crazy fuel and the CEL light came on and gave me a code 14 wihich is the igniter.

any insight, could it be my igniter is bad now since it is wired up properly, or could it be the pins on either side of the harness that could be bad.
ok scratch that, this thing is going to kill me, it turned out to be the igniter connection being loose creating misfires, now its running back same thing cant rev past 4k on idle.

but only a code 12, I checked the cam sensor 1, now for the crank sensor, after this i am giving up if it doesnt fix the problem, its like the car is cursed. loool
when i first got my car running it did this, it ended up being the TPS, it was wired incorrectly. it was the two corners oppisite from each other. i.e. top right & bottom left and vise-versa. Although i cant for the life of me remember which combo it was. i think i wrote it down somewhere, i will try to dig it up but it was a long time ago.
well i dunno my TPS is acting how it should, I tried checking the IDL wire and its fine, sending 12v when it should and 0v when it shouldn't.
well i dunno my TPS is acting how it should, I tried checking the IDL wire and its fine, sending 12v when it should and 0v when it shouldn't.
my bad, you stated that above. i missed that....
check this one out and see if it helps any.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=428990
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