Been a while since an update, so I figure I'll practice my old thread resurrection here.
If you read the small print in my last post you can probably figure that an engine stand is involved here, and one certainly is. So involved that I had to "fix" it before putting the motor on, and then actually fixing it later on when the "fix" was no longer a fix.
But 3 years after blowing the last motor it feels great to be getting some motor stuff done finally. Even though there's been a pretty good amount of work and progress done it hasn't really felt like much was getting done until now. And because I am the same person that I was when I started this build, I'm doing things in wrong orders. Gotta be consistent.
As mentioned previously, the built motor that blew and started this whole money pit was pretty much done. The mains had been line honed to a point that oversized bearings were no longer available, the cylinders had been bored out and honed to the point that they were questionable for boring again (previously done to ~.020", but the machine shop messed up and overbored against the piston specs), and the deck had been resurfaced at least 4 times that I am aware of. So I dug deep and dragged the original motor to the car out. The ugly blue on this block served as a reminder for my poor decisions as a teenager, but it was fortunately un-machined and ready to be brought back into service.
For those unfamiliar with the machine shop services in the central NM area, if it's not a V8 or domestically produced 4 cylinder you're in for a rough time. Having experienced this more times than I care to think about, I packaged the engine and parts up in the only excessive way I know how to.
By spending an entire day building out an oak pallet.
After a lot of back and forth I decided to send the motor to Accelerated Performance in OH to have the machine work done. Don knows his machine work when it comes to the JZ motors and has also done some of the higher horsepower 7Ms out there, so the choice was fairly easy even when accounting for the costs of freight shipping.
Having done a few motors and finally finding something that works well, I stuck with the same basic parts "recipe." Pistons are custom Wisecos in a 10:1 compression ratio, with properly sized valve cutouts for the 1.5mm OS valves, ceramic dome coating, and dry lube skirt coating. The wrist pins are heavy duty, and roughly one step away from being a solid dowel.
I was slightly bummed that Wiseco had a forging that worked perfectly for my application. This will make a little more sense later.
The rods are Pauter billet chromoly X-beams. Beefy suckers...
I sourced a set of billet main caps from ProGram, the company that makes most the billet JZ mains for the big name companies. Sometime between order the caps and receiving them the main machinist, and as I understand it brains behind ProGram, split from the original founder and continued the business under the new name of Billet Speedworks.
The reasoning behind the minor disappointment of non-billet pistons should be starting to come to light here.
Packed all of the pertinent parts up, sent on their way to Don at AP, and I moved on to doing other work that was previously covered here. I think
I sent this out in 2019, but I am not sure. Either way it's been a while.
Everything after Don did his magic:
I am going to take a moment and note that the ugly blue paint has lasted through 4 vat cleanings at this point. Clearly I did something terribly wrong with this motor in my early days of Supra ownership to have this incredibly persistent reminder of it. That or the VHT high temp paints are very resilient once cured.
The billet mains were cut to size and honed to use stock OD main bearings, cylinders bored and honed with a torque plate (this time to actual piston spec, courtesy of a machinist that does things right), and deck was milled again partially to be sure it was flat and to fit the front timing cover that wasn't original to this motor.
Back to present time: If you hadn't gathered I am not a fan of the blue, so it was the first thing to go. I found some paint and epoxy stripper that couldn't be sold in California and and proceeded to spend 2
entire days stripping that damned blue paint off. Couldn't tell you how many times I questioned my decision to strip it rather than just spray over it.
From here it got some VHT primer before getting VHT gloss black, with a coat of VHT clear.
After the paint stripping and before the repainting I pressed a couple of expansion plugs down the oil passage off of the oil feed from the pump. I didn't take very good pictures of this in progress so hopefully the after pics will make enough sense.
This is the spot where the factor oil filter and cooler bypass block is located, and also where the usual spin on adapter is installed. The center threaded hole is where the oil feed into the block is, and you can hopefully make out the plug in the hole that normally feeds oil from the pump into the oil filter/spin on adapter. If you're wondering why on earth I do this: the oil passage up to the block-off plate (usually stamped with an "M") is just a touch over 14mm ID. Just past the block off plate the oil passage reduces to roughly 12mm.
Remember me saying I made some poor decisions with this motor as a teen? Here's one. The oil pressure sender hole. The factor holes use 1/8 BSPT threads and the aftermarket sender I stuffed in there used 1/8 NPT threads. For those not familiar, 1/8 BSPT uses 28 threads per inch, where 1/8 NPT uses 27 threads per inch. It had a persistent seep but never took on a full leak fortunately. The fix here was to drill it out and put a 1/8NPT Timesert in.
Now I can just thread the pressure sender in without an adapter and not have to worry about leaks.
The crank case vent hose on the intake side of the block has been AN fitting and hose for quite a while now, so the hose nipple either needed to be swapped out with the old one, or a new one made. I didn't want to try to press the old one out of the block that was stuffed in the back of the shed, so I made a new one with a stainless weld fitting, welded to the stock hose fitting that's normally here.
All of the non-stainless part is buried in the block, so no worry of rust.
Next up would reasonably be bottom end assembly, so I skipped that part and did some other stuff on the block. Bolted the head on for a few different things, one of which was remaking the coolant bypass pipes. Out of stainless of course.
I got the heater outlet side of the pipe done but couldn't decide how I wanted to mount/run the heater valve, so that project stopped there for the time being. The AN fitting on the back of the head where the large banjo fitting normally is is part of the delay here. I have some ideas but need to figure out what will work, part of which requires putting the block in the motor for clearance checking.
If you look closely in the first picture you can see the oil line fittings previously mentioned. The lower one is a 10AN stainless weld bung welded to a piece of 1/4" stainless plate, because welding a bung to the factor mild steel block off plate is too easy. The inlet to the block is an M20x1.5 to 10AN adapter. Look even closer and you can see that all of the oil passage plugs have been replaced with stainless plugs, all in the proper BSPT threads and not NPT.
From here the block went into the car. First up on the list was the radiator fan shroud. I had measured it all out using my stock 87 as a guide, but didn't really trust the measurements. Turns out that lack of trust was a good thing as the 1/2" extra space I figured I had for the shroud didn't exist. This means the shroud has to bolt directly to the radiator and I can't add the extra 1/2" between the shroud and radiator that I wanted. The good news is PWR builds an offset into the upper and lower core caps so there is sufficient gap for air flow, also aided by the built in gap on the fan itself.
The main fan is a Spal 16" (30102803HO), that according to the measurements I was able to find will outflow the much favored Ford Taurus e-fan. It also flows as much as my 2 previous e-fans combined. The 2 side fans are 7.5" Spals (30100358). There's only 1 7.5" fan pictured because they happen to be on a nationwide back order, and I didn't feel like crawling under my 87 to get the bottom fan off for a test fit, so I just pulled the top one off.
After mounting the shroud and fan there's about an inch of clearance between the water pump pulley and fan motor. Good thing I've got solid engine mounts.....
With the shroud on I was able to finally make some rather crude looking upper radiator mounts. They work good and have enough of a rubber buffer between them and the radiator to prevent any problems with expansion and contraction of the radiator, but they're kinda ugly. I'll be going back and doing some shaping on them to make them less ugly eventually.
With the radiator mostly squared away I finally convinced myself to finish the wiring up front by putting the final fuse block in.
This block has 2 JCASE fuses, 1 for the electric power steering pump and one for the main e-fan, and 2 mini fuses. Only one of the mini fuses is currently planned for use on the 2 smaller radiator fans but I wired the 2nd one in for a possible oil cooler fan.
On the PS pump front I was unable to find a sealed single MAXI relay base so I went with a generic TE unsealed base for the time being. Not exactly a fan of having an unsealed relay base around, especially on a 50 amp circuit, but at least the relay itself is waterproof.
PWM fan controller also got wired in. The red/brown wire bundle is for the horns that I have yet to decide how and where to mount, and the other unterminated bundle is grounds. I got the grounds crimped to a ring terminal a bit later but didn't feel like taking a picture of that.