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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
EDIT: problem solved, scroll down to the bottom for the solution

first i had a hickup during regular accelerating (acceleration would pause for split second, then resume)

then it would backfire at around 3k

then it died while driving (rpm needle went up down and all around)

it restarted like two or three times, but died shortly after. during it's short runnings, it had a miss that i proved to cyl 6 not firing.

throwing code 14 mainly, sometimes throw code 31

i'm going tomorrow to check the resistance values of the cam/crank sensors

is there any way to check the ignitor as i don't know anyone in my area with one.

thanks

EDIT: is there any point in checking the cam/crank sensors if i didn't get a code 12 (which i believe is cam/crank sensors)???
 

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HMOOB VWJ NYOB MINNESOTA
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Code 14: it is the IGF. See pix for ECU pin, wire color, and where it goes to:





Hope this help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i thought i read somewhere (in between the search dying) that code 14 could also apply to cam/crank sensors.

but alright, i'll do some continuity tests
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
well, i did some tests, and found nothing!!finally got a ignitor and ecu to test. same deal.

here's what i know:

ignitor is good
ecu is good
continuity from ecu to ignitor is good (igt1-6 and igf)
ignitor is getting power and ground
continuity from ignitor to coils is good
changed coil pack plugs (those bastards that are so brittle they crumble when you touch them)
crank, and cam sensor resistances are within spec
crank sensor wires from sensor to ecu are good


what i'm guessing is the starwheel on the crank sprocket broke, so i'm probably gonna pull that in a couple of days. a friend of mine is thinking the cam/crank signal wires got damaged/melted and wants to try running 3 new temp wires from sensors to ecu, so we're gonna try that as well.

anyone else got any ideas?
 

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Ive seen the same symptoms when the star gear breaks on the crank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
well, sure enough proved to the crank sprocket. the starwheel which the crank sensor reads broke off from the crank sprocket, meaning it would not move when the crank was turning, giving the ecu wrong readings and causing my car not to start.

so yeah, is this an indication of the engine have crank walk? anything i can do to keep this from happening again? i was thinking of welding all around it, and grinding it smooth as it is only pressed in at one little tab about 2mm long to hold it?
 

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Moderator, l337 M0d3r4t0r
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this was a PIA checked the ECU and cam sensors and all sorts of crap.. PIA for sure.
 

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Your Neighborhood Pikey
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di_rosa said:
well, sure enough proved to the crank sprocket. the starwheel which the crank sensor reads broke off from the crank sprocket, meaning it would not move when the crank was turning, giving the ecu wrong readings and causing my car not to start.

so yeah, is this an indication of the engine have crank walk? anything i can do to keep this from happening again? i was thinking of welding all around it, and grinding it smooth as it is only pressed in at one little tab about 2mm long to hold it?

I have a spare crank sprocket with the star ring in tact if you want one. PM me.

- Chris
 

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wow well guess this is my next thing to check how do you get to this sprockett to check it what do you have to take off
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
if you pull off the harmonic balancer, then the lower timing cover, then you can leave the timing belt on and just try to spin the trigger wheel with a screw driver, and if it spins, that's your problem.
 

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ok thanks mines good so im still not sure my problem.... i have checked alot of things though

ignitor is good
continuity from ecu to ignitor is good
ignitor is getting power and ground
continuity from ignitor to coils is good
crank, and cam sensor resistances are within spec
crank sensor wires from sensor to ecu are good and....
the crank sprocket is good...
so whats left ecu and map....?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
well, the only thing left is timing then.

if all the cam and crank sensor resistances check out, and you pulled the harmonic balancer and verified that your crank sprocket isn't broken, then i'd guess maybe the tab on the cam broke, otherwise your wiring might be cooked.

also, take into account that the polarity of the two wires going to each sensor is VERY important. signal must go to pin 1, and ground to pin2.
 
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