[Guest]

Hi all hope you can help when running my car its fine when first started but as it warms up the revs die and the car stalls. Also when driving if i press in the clutch the revs drop to 0 and the car cuts out or at junctions the car will cut out. I have changed the requlator, fuel pp, idle air vv, throttle position sensor all to no avail, when it happens its almost as if whatever should catch the dropping revs is doesnt so. Also when it is happening and the car is at the struggling stage the battery volts drop but im not sure if this is standard stall indication. Any ideas will be greatly recieved.

 

[DaveH]

Did you do any mods or maintenance prior to this starting? Or did it start happening out of the blue? Did you check for codes?

 

[Guest]

I have fitted a longer duration/lift intake cam but had it all dyno'd and the car ran fine for about 3 weeks to a month then i had to leave it standing for 3 months came back and had the problem ever since, no codes which is the annoying thing about it.

 

[bobmarley]

Sounds like battery corrosion, the usual problem for everyone =/

 

[Guest]

I'd try resetting the ECU and also maybe cleaning the terminals of the battery. Also make sure that everything is plugged in. I know that sounds stupid, but I've done it before. LOL!!!

Ryan

 

[Guest]

Battery corrosion, please enlighten me i have never heard of this before, do you mean the terminals or the plates internally. The battery was disconnected during the lay up. i have tried an ecu re-set with no luck although thats pretty much what its like when its going through its learning process

 

[Guest]

well i go trough this every time its warm outside too. but i know what its is. its my MAF because that shit spits nothing but black smoke so i know its running rich. what i do is reset every thing take the battery terminal off and wait like 1 min then put it back on and the car is good for the rest of the day. it can get annoying though when u have ur radio progamed........

 

[Guest]

O.K thanks all i have a map sensor and unfortunately all my ref books refer to the maf but i think i may have the solution thanks to your suggestions. I have a unit on my car that when full throttle disconects the alternator from the battery but goes back to charge if the battery voltage is low, however i noticed a crack in the casing which would cause this unit to think my throttle was wot all the time and therefore it would be flicking constantly on/off. Now this would mean that the battery was probably never getting full charge and the unit would be cutting in at idle forcing the car onto its already low battery, which in turn cannot now sustain the load the unit detects the low battery but too late and i cut out. I have now bypassed this unit and will post an update after a few test runs. To ad a further (but off topic) update i now have 206 rwhp and my intake cam gave me an extra 10 rwhp in the middle of the rev range.

 

[bobmarley]

Never mind all taht.. just get new battery terminals, maybe even a battery if its that corroded.

 

[lexcoupe]

sorry to bring an old thread alive again, but...

im having a similar problem on my NA-T. I am using the AEM EMS and the car will start (gas needs to be pressed a little) It will idle fine until the car heats up. Then it will die. Does anyone know the fix for this? If so please let me know, Thanks

Kevin

 

[Blizzz]

well i go trough this every time its warm outside too. but i know what its is. its my MAF because that shit spits nothing but black smoke so i know its running rich. what i do is reset every thing take the battery terminal off and wait like 1 min then put it back on and the car is good for the rest of the day. it can get annoying though when u have ur radio progamed........

If you're worried about your radio being programmed, why not just pull the ECU fuse, and you won't lose any of your radios resets? Pulling the battery off all the time is such a hassle.