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1995 rhd Supra
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I’ve recently been having problems with my 95 Supra na when I put the clutch in to downshift the rpm drop to zero and the car dies. I thought it may be the spark plugs but after changing them I’m still having the issue. The car seems like it has been heavily modified in the past so I’m not sure if it could possibly be the tune in the car. If anyone could help I’d really appreciate it.
 

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What are the existing and currently installed modifications? Impossible to guess without knowing more about the car.
 

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1995 rhd Supra
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What are the existing and currently installed modifications? Impossible to guess without knowing more about the car.
It’s completely stock besides a toyo sports cat back exhaust that was on it when I bought the car.
 

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Definitely isn't going to be a 'tune' in the car or anything like that. There's no tuning the stock ECU easily at all, it takes additional hardware that was very expensive at the time.

It is possible that the stock ECU itself has leaky capacitors/etc and is failing there. But first things first I'd check for vacuum leaks in the intake manifold itself, either on vacuum lines that connect to the plenum or the gaskets themselves. The easiest way to test this is to let the engine idle, and use some flammable brake cleaner and spray the various gasket seams and vacuum lines. If the idle drops or revs up when you spray a certain spot, that's a vacuum leak.

Beyond that it's possible your IACV is failing or gummed up/dirty.
 
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1995 rhd Supra
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Definitely isn't going to be a 'tune' in the car or anything like that. There's no tuning the stock ECU easily at all, it takes additional hardware that was very expensive at the time.

It is possible that the stock ECU itself has leaky capacitors/etc and is failing there. But first things first I'd check for vacuum leaks in the intake manifold itself, either on vacuum lines that connect to the plenum or the gaskets themselves. The easiest way to test this is to let the engine idle, and use some flammable brake cleaner and spray the various gasket seams and vacuum lines. If the idle drops or revs up when you spray a certain spot, that's a vacuum leak.

Beyond that it's possible your IACV is failing or gummed up/dirty.
Alright thanks I’ll give it a check. I’ve also got a check engine light that will come on every once in a while for a few minutes then it goes away, do you think it could be related to that? And also I’ve seen that the jdm models don’t have the same obd2 as usdm cars, is there a way to check it?
 

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Depends on the year, the OBD-I protocols were basically the same if it was 95 or earlier. There's a method to pull codes in the TSRM aka the Toyota Supra Repair Manual. It's likely related if it's intermittent.


The google drive link is still live!
 
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1995 rhd Supra
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Depends on the year, the OBD-I protocols were basically the same if it was 95 or earlier. There's a method to pull codes in the TSRM aka the Toyota Supra Repair Manual. It's likely related if it's intermittent.


The google drive link is still live!
okay thanks!
 

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For the last 5 years or so my 94TT (stock ecu) has had a stall issue when going to idle during the first 5mins or so of driving. Doesn't matter if I drive right away or let it warm up for 10mins first. Come to a stop sign, put in the clutch and 50% of the time it will stall. Second stop sign is close, maybe stall maybe not. By the third stop sign it's totally fine.

Haltech Elite 2500 going in shortly though :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
For the last 5 years or so my 94TT (stock ecu) has had a stall issue when going to idle during the first 5mins or so of driving. Doesn't matter if I drive right away or let it warm up for 10mins first. Come to a stop sign, put in the clutch and 50% of the time it will stall. Second stop sign is close, maybe stall maybe not. By the third stop sign it's totally fine.

Haltech Elite 2500 going in shortly though :p
Mines pretty random it could happen 3 times in one drive or none for a week. I can fight the stall by keeping the rpm up while shifting but then as soon as I let the rpm fall again it’ll die on me.
that haltech will be sweet though
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update: drove the car today and it did great until the car started sputtering and died on me going 30 mph. It won’t start now so I’m waiting on a tow. I think it might be the fuel pump so I’m going to start with that.
 

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Dude, that sucks! change the fuel filter as well when you do that!

Also, try adding 2-3 gallons and trying to start it again, fuel level senders have been known to fail as well especially on JDM cars from humid environments where they sat a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Dude, that sucks! change the fuel filter as well when you do that!

Also, try adding 2-3 gallons and trying to start it again, fuel level senders have been known to fail as well especially on JDM cars from humid environments where they sat a lot.
Yeah I got lucky and was able to pull into a parking lot but still had to push it uphill which wasn’t fun😂 I had just filled up on gas so it shouldn’t be that but I’ll definently change the filter too. Thanks man
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Dude, that sucks! change the fuel filter as well when you do that!

Also, try adding 2-3 gallons and trying to start it again, fuel level senders have been known to fail as well especially on JDM cars from humid environments where they sat a lot.
Changed the fuel pump and filter and drove it today. The new fuel pump helped a lot the car started better, idled better and even felt like it accelerated a little quicker. on the drive back it died the same as before and wouldn’t start back. Any ideas on what else could be wrong?
 
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