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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1994 SZ-R
140K miles
All OEM Except exhaust, intake and coilovers

Recently got a Lance alignment done on the car. It drove 100% fine for about 70 Miles to home.

Car drove OK for the next month or so. Drove it about ~30 miles.

Just flushed the brake fluid, and it seemed ok on the test drive.

A few weeks later, I try to take it for a ~10 mile drive, and the car feels like it's slipping on everything on the road. When going over a patch of dirt, I have to concentrate on keeping it straight.

Gotta take corners at 10mph instead of 25mph.

Tried messing with the damping (recently installed HKS Hipermax S before getting the Lance Alignment). No help.

Went home, pulled on the RR wheel and it moves the car forward and back a little bit.

The LR wheel barely moves when I do the same.

Figured it'd be bushings giving out on the rear LCA. Took wheels off and tried to pull it from any direction, and nothing gives. Pulled on other components too, and although the bushings just look old, nothing budges.

I have never replaced these types of bushings and I have limited tools and patience. It looks like a pain in the ass the remove and put in new ones without the proper tools. Because of it, I thought about just getting an entire new rear LCA for both sides, but since I couldn't make anything move, I'm not sure anymore.

Do you guys have any thoughts or recommendations? I want to try diagnosing it at home before just taking it to a shop, especially since any shop I'd trust is 70+ miles from home.
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Synthetic rubber

Tire Automotive tire Tread Synthetic rubber Motor vehicle

^ Underneath hub, rear LCA

Wheel Tire Automotive tire Locking hubs Alloy wheel

^ Nice fat little crack I just noticed

Automotive tire Locking hubs Rim Automotive exterior Automotive wheel system

Eye Automotive tire Wood Sculpture Grey

^ Diff bushing looking juicy

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Automotive exhaust Automotive design
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
This may be over simplification and I am not trying to be mean but... have you checked your tire pressure? If nothing has changed mechanically since your last drive of a few weeks ago... the tire pressure can.
I did, around 32psi in the rear

Can't find the alignment sheet with all the paperwork in the garage. Cleaned and organized it a few weeks ago now I'm scared it might have been trashed.

At the time, nothing was concerning, though it wasn't 100%.

-1.3 camber, 0.04deg of toe each side in the rear. Front was fine.
 

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Game Over
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Rear wheel bearings are not uncommon to be worn out with age, if your still getting play on that wheel up on the air.

Another possibility is the eccentric bolts for camber/toe coming loose from being under torqued from the alignment shop.

The torque specs on them are pretty intense, 166 ft lbs for the front LCA, and I don't remember the rest off my head.

If there's there's any nearby shops that do complimentary alignment check, I'd check one out before checking the torque of your eccentrics if possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Silly question but are you missing one of your Diff/Subframe bushings?
Yes, it only has one... I thought this was intended per my half-assed research

End links look fine, everything else look fine.

I've been playing with the damping a little bit and it seems that making it tighter is helping. I've adjusted the fronts a little too and it seemed to seal the deal

I'm also not a person who likes to run higher tire pressure but I bumped it up to 34 all around and it seemed to help.


It almost seemed like the damping got fucked on its own or maybe I didn't reset it while I played with it last time. The car still feels slightly "off" but maybe now it's placebo.

Would electronics failing do anything? Once in a while the car can't handle my phone charger so the horn, the lighter and some dash lights stop working temporarily, and this happened the day the car felt floaty.

Today after I fucked with it and the car felt better, all electronics worked with no issues.

Hmm

As for the alignment, I don't dare bring it anywhere where I live
 

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Silly question but are you missing one of your Diff/Subframe bushings?
All non turbo JZA80 chassis only got one rear diff bushing.

Its bizarre, given the overall cost of putting it in every car, but Toyota decided only the TT needed it, so it got left out.

Both Series 1 and Series 2 chassis are missing them too, so it wasnt part of the cost savings exercise that the Series 2 had applied to it either.
 

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All non turbo JZA80 chassis only got one rear diff bushing.

Its bizarre, given the overall cost of putting it in every car, but Toyota decided only the TT needed it, so it got left out.

Both Series 1 and Series 2 chassis are missing them too, so it wasnt part of the cost savings exercise that the Series 2 had applied to it either.
My S2 SZ-R had both, do not sure how consistent they were.

I went from OEM alignment specs to the Lance and i don't like it. Car follows every groove in the road. Just doesn't feel stable until you really get on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
My S2 SZ-R had both, do not sure how consistent they were.

I went from OEM alignment specs to the Lance and i don't like it. Car follows every groove in the road. Just doesn't feel stable until you really get on it.
Honestly, I was trying to give myself time to see if I adjusted to it, but I don't like it either. Maybe I can see it if I'm doing pulls in the highway on a straight road, but the car feels horrible on any kind of corners.
 

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My S2 SZ-R had both, do not sure how consistent they were.

I went from OEM alignment specs to the Lance and i don't like it. Car follows every groove in the road. Just doesn't feel stable until you really get on it.
Yes, of course, as it came with the V161

Ive always loved the lance alignment, personally. Never found it to follow grooves or "tramline" though...perhaps you have a damaged bush or ball joint in one of your arms?
 

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From my experience, I had movement on one of my rear wheels. I thought I had a bad wheel bearing. I tore everything apart and come to find out the hub nut backed off slightly. Once I tightened it up, no more play. My bearings were fine.
 

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From my experience, I had movement on one of my rear wheels. I thought I had a bad wheel bearing. I tore everything apart and come to find out the hub nut backed off slightly. Once I tightened it up, no more play. My bearings were fine.
I suspect mine is exactly the same...it has an extremely tiny bit of play in the rear wheels, but wheel bearings are silent and handling is fine, but perhaps I need to take them apart and nip up the hub nuts.

What did you torque them up to, please?
 

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1993 JDM 5spd SZ hardtop in 202 blek.
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Are you sure you tightened everything up when you swapped out the old shocks for the coilovers?

I'd look at what was most recently changed so I'd check that first.

Without removing the wheels I'd jack the car up and give each wheel a good yank. IE. Grab the top of the wheel and pull it towards you. Then do the same from the 3 O'clock, 6 and 9 positions if you haven't already. If there's any movement that will identify if you've got issues with any of your bushes. Doing this on my car identified my (now fixed) rear UCA bushes being badly worn.

I have heard of rear subframe bolts coming loose over time. Could be worth checking that they are torqued down to spec?

In regards to tyre pressure (which was mentioned previously) 32psi seems really low to me and I'm now slightly curious what others run. I run 38 psi and don't think I've ever run lower than 35 on anything other than a mundane passenger car with a high tyre sidewall. Still, if your tyre pressure is consistent it wouldn't explain the behavior you are seeing.

Failing all that I'd get the alignment re-checked and then my next step would be putting back in the old shocks to see if it's the coilovers causing the issues.
 

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I suspect mine is exactly the same...it has an extremely tiny bit of play in the rear wheels, but wheel bearings are silent and handling is fine, but perhaps I need to take them apart and nip up the hub nuts.

What did you torque them up to, please?
You only need to remove the wheel, cotter pin and lock cap (crown cap) to retorque the hub nut. 213 ft-lbf!!! With the lock cap, it shouldn't back off, but mine was definitely not 213 ft-lbs, thus causing a loose wheel.

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I'm pretty sure that if that nut is loose, the bearing is worn. You can re-tighten it to 213 ft/lb, which helps, but that bearing is still worn. Checking the torque on that nut is not normal maintenance.

Al
Makes sense, but I don't know how much of a 1/8-ish turn back against the cotter pin would decrease the nut torque. It's been several years, and periodically keep checking the wheel play. Seems to be holding up.... for now. My subframe bolts also needed retorqued at the same time. Makes me wonder what else is loose after 27 years.
 

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On a Nissan when that hub comes loose, the 200ft*lbs nut, the bearing is trash and must be replaced. We are not allowed to re-use the hub bearings and they are non rebuildable. IDK about Supra but I have a feeling in the service manual it will say the hub bearing needs to be replaced whenever we intend the hub nut is torqued to the proper 200~lb-ft
 
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