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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey all,

i swapped in a motor with auto harness into a 5-speed car. now the car only starts when i spray starter fluid into the intake pipe. i tested for fuel pressure and that was good, obviously i have spark since the engine starts, EVERYTHING was in working condition on the automatic car before the swap. i also triple checked my grounds and any other electrical connections i could possibly think of, efi fuse is good and cam timing is dead on.

the engine will start but it will only idle for a few seconds before it dies. at first i thought i was having a fuel problem since it only wants to start with starter fluid, but when i tested for fuel, there is indeed fuel going to the rail.

also i was getting a code 51. did a search and everything points to the tps. well, even if i need to replace/recalibrate the tps, the engine would still start and idle, right?

any help is mucho appreciated!!!
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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Check all electrical connections. Make sure the afm is plugged, and and all vaccum lines are connected. Code 51 is tps usually and the car will idle with tps out of whack. Just check connections every where! Are you running new plugs, and wires, and are the crank, cams and cps all hared time aligned?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
all connections are plugged in. now i'm getting a code 22 since i spilled a little coolant on the temp sensor. after that i wiped and dried the connectors and put a replacement temp sensor on (just to test) and still getting the code. after doing a little research, i found out that many people can't get their car to start after a code 22. any other suggestions on what to check besides testing the temp sensor?

also what is the best way to test if the injectors are spraying? i cranked the engine a few times and the spark plugs were dry. then i took out an injector to take a look and it was dry as well. what would cause the injectors not to spray? i know i'm getting fuel to the fuel rail; tested terminals Fb and +B on the diagnosis port and there was fuel pressure, plus when i took out an injector, fuel dripped out.

what i don't understand is that this entire setup worked before i pulled the engine out and swapped it into my shell. the ONLY two things that are different is that i'm having to use a manual dash harness instead of the original automatic one, and i'm using a 5-spd tranny instead of an auto.
 

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Well, if only a little bit of fuel dripped out when you took out an injector, that doesn't sound right. I took one of my injectors out and and fuel poured everywhere.

My rebuild wouldn't start either. The pump was running and everything. Then I cracked the fuel line while cranking it and no fuel came out. Come to find out the wires were reversed on the pump and it was pumping backwards :doh:

I'd triple check that its getting fuel.

Dale H
87T
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
still stumped on this. here is what i know:

1. i have fuel going to the fuel rail, because a disconnected a fuel line for shits and grins (and to test for fuel also) and fuel shot out when i cranked the engine.

2. my spark plugs are dry.

3. engine only starts with starter fluid, definitely a fuel related problem.


are there any other fuses/ relays responsible for allowing the injectors to fire?
 

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slowly giving up...
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for shits and giggles, check the 7.5A IGN fuse in the driver's kick panel. that was my problem after my swap. it APPEARED to be fine, but when i checked it with a multimeter, it was infact blown. it was an easy fix. i popped a new one in and it fired right up. it kept sounding like it wanted to idle when the fuse was blown, but wouldnt do so.

-shaeff
 

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I had the same problem once because my fuel surge supressor was clogged......
 

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check the gaskets for the lower intake manifold and upper, they are probably creating a massive vacuum leak. spray some starter fluid around there hopefully idle picks up.
 

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Supra Fan
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Im having the same exact problem as you. Im trying a new afm electronics next week so hopefully thats it.
 

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check this

With the ignition switch on - unplug one of the fuel injector clips, and see what voltage you are getting on both terminals with a test light. With the switch on, I and the test light grounded.... I can probe either terminal of the injector and get get a light (12 v). Then when I crank over my car... one of the terminals blink... which gives you a difference in voltage. This difference should make the injector squirt.

I have the opposite problem... (right now). I am getting spark / fuel... but my plugs are all wet.
 

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Also, I wanted to tell you that if you need a surge supressor you can get them from a host of different motors. Do a part number check at your toyota dealer and see what other models have the same supressor.

Also, if you have an Aeromotive AFPR, you can eliminate the suppressor alltogether.
 
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