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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally found my boost leak. I sealed it up and put it back together. Take the car for a spin and it feels real low on power. It won't even spin the tires in first. It has been running 1200 egt after turbo on the interstate since I've had it. If I lean into it on the interstate it will hit 1425. I believe the computer is pulling timing, but for what reason? If I had lack of fuel would the comp pull timing? I am not throwing any codes. Timing is on 12 degrees. Thanks alot I have a bad headache can anyone fix my car? Thanks
 

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try unpluggin the battery, sounds like your supra doesn't know how to run right, same with mine after a fix it feels off. then a while letter, or when i pull the battery.

Try it, might help and check again for any stored codes just in case, Good luck.

Sucks man, you fix it and it don't wanta cooperate.
 

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Dr Wheelspin Rh.D.
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Also while fixing a boost leak you may have accidently caused another. Reset the ECU as boostmastersdotcom suggested, take it for another test drive, then check for error codes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I found the boost leak in the hard plastic piece that runs through the fender. I am hitting fuel cut at 12 psi so I don't beleive I have a boost leak. I haved pulled the EFI fuse before. How long are you supposed to have it pulled? Any other ideas? Thanks guys Would a bad fuel pump make the car run lean or would it just not run at all? Also if it was running lean because of the fuel pump would the motor retard the timing? Thanks Jake T.
 

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Dr Wheelspin Rh.D.
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30 seconds.

Check your engine error codes after you run the car again.

Running lean does not directly affect how the ECU handles timing. In fact the ECU has no clue at all that the car is even running lean at WOT, since it ignores the O2 sensor. The only correlation lean and timing have is if your motor is detonating the car will pull timing out, however if you're running that lean you've got serious problems that might be killing your motor. With a bad fuel pump the car will probably not idle properly, and when you do accelerate it will be jerky, you won't get a smooth slow acceleration like you're describing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I just pulled the battery again so I will run it and check codes again. I am also going to set timing at 10 degrees it was at 12 degrees. I had the head milled 7 thousands and an hks metal head gasket installed. THat would raise my compression just a hair right? That means I should run just a hair less timing? I know the computer is pulling timming, I can have the gas about a 1/4 of the way down and the autometer boost gauge will be at 0 and the gas won't pull then all of the sudden it feel good then kinda falls a little. THe power kicks in and out. It definatlry is fuel or timming but I have had this problem for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I just set the timing at 9-10 degrees and reset the codes. The only code I get is 34 because of fuel cut. When I stomped it in first leaving the house it barly spun and I saw black and white smoke. I still have no power up top and don't know why the comp is pulling timing. THanks
 

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you sure youre not running rich? it can cause heat too...

Also could you have detonated so much that you blew a hg? Doubtful, but you never know...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
so.....

Yeah I was just thinking that myself. It really does run rich so I beleive the high egts are due to how rich it is running. I just found out that my "new" jdm blow off valve is non functional. I can blow straight through it. So I took it off and caped off were the BOV use to be. I know this is hard on the turbo but I don't have any other choice. ALso the turbo is fluttering just as bad with the BOV outlet caped off as it did with the old BOV on. The boost is still there but power is kicking in and out and the power dies off above 4000 rpms. Can anyone help? My car should run fine with the BOV caped off right? Also why is the flutter almost just as loud as when my old BOV was bad? AGHHHH Thanks for everyones help!
 
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"flutter" is compressed air being forced back into the turbo. It should flutter bad w/ no bov.
 

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just get a bosch BOV, its cheap and it works well.

The compression of your engine may have been changed dramatically with the hks gasket (bore is 86mm) What thickness did you put on? Have you tested the actual compression of your motor?
 
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