It's not your fuel system, it's you
Take it to a mechanic, there are a plethora of other things it could be. I can list them, but honestly I don't think you have the experience to rule them out 100%
If it were me, I would start with the basics, it takes 5 things to put torque on the crank of an internal combustion piston engine. Air, fuel, compression, spark and timing . Since compression should be static, we can put that to the side. Since air should also be static, we can put that to the side as well. That leaves us with fuel, spark and timing.
From that list we think back to what was the last thing we modified, touched or encountered ... viola it was the spark plugs/coil packs/ignition system. On top of that, we revved the motor up and possibly caused this condition from that, so we'll concentrate on those two things.
We know that supra's have a common problem of having coil pack connectors become brittle and break, or have the insides break, when they are removed from the coil itself, so we'd check each connector and make sure it was perfect, no missing white spacer in the middle or missing connector pieces. We'd also check the coils themselves and make sure the portion inside that clips to the spark plug hadn't dislodged itself, nor had the tip of one of the old plugs accidentially came off in a coil. Lastly we'd check are plugs, make sure one of them wasn't cracked in the ceramic (because that will definitely cause these symptoms) and we'd make sure the gap was correct and that there was no damage to the tip or electrode.
If all of that pans out, we should then check and see what timing is doing above 55xx rpms, with a scanner or monitor, maybe tech tom.
Note to yourself that toyota put a safety provision in the stock ecu, that puts an early rev limiter to the motor if you are in neutral, so that you can't blow the motor up and come in under warranty. I believe it was at 5200 or 5500 rpms. It either monitors vehicle speed or the clutch safety switch, I can't remember which. So if your's were to permanently have continuity through the switch, the vehicle would continue to think it was in neutral and would institute said motor safety provision. You might also want to try swapping ecu's with your friend.
After all of this has been double checked, then you should move onto the fuel system, starting with the pump. The chances of an injector working half ass is pretty slim, and the chance of it not wrecking your motor is even slimmer.
I know it's a long post, but hopefully it helps you to either take it to a mechanic, or shows you how to be thorough when testing it yourself, and how not to just through parts and money into the wrong areas.
bigazturbo said:
Ok all of the coils are plugged in. It didnt start running like this as soon as I put the plugs in. It ran fine for a day or two so then I wanted to see if it could rev over 5500 without boost on it, so I reved it up and then at around 5500 it started missing again and backfiring and after that it started running like this. Another thing I should mention is that before it started running like this full time it would go into spells where it would seem like it was running on 5 and then just switch back all of a sudden and run fine. Once while it was running bad I left it running and got out to look under the hood and watched it run like this for about 2 mins then I heard a click and it started running fine again any idea what the click could have been from.
