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Fastest Factory Auto
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2,228 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Rules

Rule #1 - O/D off when you go WOT. If you suck at remembering things like I do, make notes and put them all over the car so you remember to turn it off. The overdrive clutch pack contains 2 clutches, the rest of them are somewhere around 6 if I remember correctly, O/D clutch pack CAN NOT HANDLE HIGH HP YOU WILL BREAK YOUR TRANS

Rule #2 - Double check that O/D is off.. joking? No, I've seen my little reminder notes and hit O/D off twice, turning it back on..

Rule #3 - O/D is still off right?

Rule #4 - Burnouts ONLY in First Gear. Do not let the transmission shift into 2nd during a burnout. You will very likely break the 2nd gear sprag. Tends to break when wheels are spinning on the shift from 1st to 2nd. I'm not a trans builder, I dont know why.. Its just known.

Rule #5 - Trans coolers, lots of them, big ones. I have 3 trans coolers on my car, first one in the chain on the Passenger side air duct in the bumper with a fan on it, from there to another large one in between radiator and intercooler, from there to a small one in the drivers side air duct on the bumper.

Rule #6 - External trans filter mount with the CORRECT type of filter on it. Its $28 for the bracket on summit racing. The filter you want is a Napa #1624 - this is a $20 filter, it is designed for hydraulic/transmission use, and filters to 19 microns. Put this filter BEFORE YOUR FIRST COOLER. The point is not so much to keep the fluid clean as it is to keep junk out of the coolers.

Rule #6a - PUT A TEMP GAUGE ON THE TRANSMISSION LINE OUT. You want to see what the fluid temp is BEFORE it hits your coolers. You dont want this ridiculously high, Ideal is under 220deg. With my stall being so loose, it generates a LOT of heat. We'll discuss this more later.

Rule #7 - Spend the $100 or whatever it costs to get the Lexus IS300 transmission pan, its deeper, allows a little bit more fluid to sit in the pan, and extra fluid means the overall fluid temp in the pan will stay lower

Rule #8 - REALLY IMPORTANT - MAKE SURE YOU'RE FLUID LEVEL IS CORRECT. It's not cut and dry filling the trans, variations in temperature cause variations in fluid level readings. When ever I flush the trans I put back in EXACTLY what I took out (minus whatever extra I flushed through). When first filling a new trans, even with the extra coolers and deeper pan the overall capacity is not going to be way higher than the factory dry capacity of around 8 qts (will update when I confirm the factory capacity for a dry system). I start with around 7.8-8 qts in the system, let the trans warm up, put it into each gear for 5 seconds, P - N - D - D (o/d off) - 2 - L, back up to P again stopping at each gear for a few seconds, I check the fluid level in Park with the motor running. you dont want it at the very top of the "High" line, thats the max fill. When the transmission gets VERY hot (it will if you race), the fluid level can go over the max fill level, this can cause the fluid to aerate, causing air to get into the lines, causing a momentary loss of line pressure, which can cause failures to happen.

Rule #8a - Go drive the car now, make sure it goes into every gear, including Reverse, and drive until the fluid is up to operating temp. Now go back and recheck the fluid level.

Rule #9 - Check your fluid level again

Rule #10 - KEEP THE FLUID FRESH. Change your fluid often, change it like crazy if you race. Keeping the trans fluid in good condition keeps the trans in good condition. Change the external filter even more often. I'd say for a normal street car it's not out of the question to change fluid every 2 oil changes and change the filter ever oil change. For a stock car, just change fluid every 10k unless you absolutely beat the piss out of it.

Rule #11 - Converter lockup. If you have a higher stall, figure it out. (more info below)

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If you have a failure, converter, trans, or contaminated fluid somehow:

Do not be cheap, your trans cost you a good bit of money, you want a transmission that was designed to handle 320 flywheel hp to handle 3 times that? Dont cheap out.

Whenever I have a failure, or my fluid is questionable for some reason - I flush at a minimum 12 qts OUT of the coolers before I begin to fill.

Flushing is easy, disconnect the line from your coolers that goes back to the transmission, put a hose from that line to a drain pan, and turn the car on. Add fluid as it spits out fluid, dont let it run dry if you can. I usually start the car, let it run for 10-30 seconds, shut it off, dump the old fluid into either gallon or qt containers so i can see how much has come out, add more in, and Repeat.

Ideally run AN lines from the trans to the coolers, disconnect the cooler line at the trans so you make sure theres no crap in the line - flush it from that point.

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Locking the converter

Converter lockup is absolutely essential for street driving with a higher stall. And you should do it on a lower stall too if for nothing other than the added fuel economy.

Converter lockup clutches are freakin small, they are not designed to be locked up at WOT - I have never locked my converter at anything over 30% throttle. The OEM ECU wont lock anything over 30% either if I remember correctly. This is because the clutch is not intended to handle power, its there to make the converter 1:1 ratio on slippage, enabling you to get better MPG and keeping trans temps down.

ONLY lock the converter in 4th gear over 50mph under 30% throttle.

Enabling and setting up hysteresis in the AEM converter lockup controls is a must, whenever I dig up my old AEM maps I'll post them. If I havent posted them yet, then I havent had time to find them, dont ask.

Cruising on the highway at 70mph with my converter unlocked, my temps on the way out of the converter will go out of hand, with the converter locked, the temps actually drop, like a brick.

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Drag racing:

Do not let the car go into overdrive. 3rd gear at 8500rpm on a 26" tire should get you 155mph, if thats not enough, go to a 28" tire or change the gearing in the rear.

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Line Pressure and AEM V1:

AEM V1 can not control the solenoids inside the transmission properly! The drivers operate at different frequencies and they will shut down. The AEM will ONLY run MAXIMUM line pressure at all times, THIS IS BAD.

With that said, you can still setup a timing retard on shifts, this reduces power on the shifts and helps the trans live a little longer. The FACTORY ecu does this already, in addition, the factory trac ECU closes the TRAC butterfly inbetween shifts to cut air into the motor, this helps the trans live. You took that shit out though, so either get an ECU that can control things right, or dont bitch when something breaks.

I run a ProEFI for my engine/trans control. It is able to completely control all aspects of the trans. I've bitched about this ECU in the past, but with the newest firmware thats out it seems to actually be shaping up to be decent.

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Fastest Factory Auto
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2,228 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Reserved
 

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Fastest Factory Auto
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2,228 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Converter Lockup and more AEM V1 info
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NEVER, EVER, EVER let the converter stay locked through shifts, downshifts/upshifts/etc.. this is extremely hard on the trans and converter and you will break something

AEM converter lockup wiring diagram is no longer at the following link, I'll try to make a new diagram when I get a moment.. but read through this, lots of good info

http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php/topic,3680.0.html

Now read this too

http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php/topic,18431.0.html

Now search the AEM forums for all info on Auto supra's running with AEM.. educate yourself.
 

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Fastest Factory Auto
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2,228 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
This will be a work in progress as I continue to dump out everything in my brain over the next couple days
 

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Finally up and running!
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3,990 Posts
Very informative thread, love to see things like this. In the MKIII tech section there is a section on how to build the A340 valve-body to accept power. Although somethings will be different, others will be the same. In there, it recommended that you switch to the is300 pump over the MKIII or MKIV, as it was capable of more flow and fit in the factory spot. Might want to look into that as well, as the stock output pump has to be tired pushing the fluid through all of your coolers, when it was meant for a stock one.
 

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Fastest Factory Auto
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2,228 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Very informative thread, love to see things like this. In the MKIII tech section there is a section on how to build the A340 valve-body to accept power. Although somethings will be different, others will be the same. In there, it recommended that you switch to the is300 pump over the MKIII or MKIV, as it was capable of more flow and fit in the factory spot. Might want to look into that as well, as the stock output pump has to be tired pushing the fluid through all of your coolers, when it was meant for a stock one.
The coolers are very low pressure, this is just a return line basically. I have not yet found any issues with this.
 

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Why an Auto??
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361 Posts
Per Boostlogic for their Transmission
How to make sure the transmission and upgraded torque converter is operating properly:

1) The transmission uses Toyota Type T4 Fluid.

A Toyota Transmission Engineer, states: “T he reason the TT A340i uses TIV is because those trans' have flex lockup and "intelligence" control. The "i" means the ECM monitors input and output shaft timing to maintain constant shift speed over its life. The ECM's control calibration is matched to the TIV's fluid's friction coefficient and temperature characteristics. Any Toyota transmission with flex lockup (duty cycles linear solenoid at low speed and load) uses that fluid. Otherwise dexron III is used. The clutches and seals are the same. Using dexron in a TIV trans could cause shift flare, shock or lockup shudder. The Toyota stuff is very high quality (mineral based) and really not that inexpensive. There really isn't a "universal fluid". Using that train of that would be like saying all spark plugs are the same. “.



2) The transmission fluid level is measured with the car running and in neutral.

3) The traction ECU is taken out and traction ECU removed. It is normal for the O/D light to blink.

4) Transmission temperatures should range from 170 to 210 degrees depending on cruise or wide open throttle

Transmissions running on AEM:

1) Timing HAS to be less than 6 degrees of timing between shifts. This will ensure the longevity of the transmission. Each car will be different as to how quick the timing will be ramped back in. Doing this incorrectly will result in a slow vehicle. Please ensure that proper professional tuning has been contracted. We recommend tuning by Justin from Tuning Concepts ([email protected])

Instructions on doing a burnout without breaking the 2nd gear sprag:

Stock ECU Equipped Cars:

Place the car in 1st gear. Do the burnout ONLY in first. Shifting to 2nd can cause you to roll the sprag.

AEM ECU Equipped Cars:

Press the MANU button .Place the car in 1st gear and do the burnout. If you do not use the MANU button, the transmission will go through the gears as normal even if the shifter is placed into 1st gear.
 

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Fastest Factory Auto
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Discussion Starter #12
A Toyota Transmission Engineer, states: “T he reason the TT A340i uses TIV is because those trans' have flex lockup and "intelligence" control. The "i" means the ECM monitors input and output shaft timing to maintain constant shift speed over its life. The ECM's control calibration is matched to the TIV's fluid's friction coefficient and temperature characteristics. Any Toyota transmission with flex lockup (duty cycles linear solenoid at low speed and load) uses that fluid. Otherwise dexron III is used. The clutches and seals are the same. Using dexron in a TIV trans could cause shift flare, shock or lockup shudder. The Toyota stuff is very high quality (mineral based) and really not that inexpensive. There really isn't a "universal fluid". Using that train of that would be like saying all spark plugs are the same. “.

blah blah blah blah.. I run Type T-IV fluid because it works.. lol ;)
 

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Man. Thank you for the info. I want to make sure my tip-tronic function lasts a long time. I know Toyota has the best fluid for the v160 (reviews). Has anyone tried the royal purple atf fluid? Just doing normal maintenance, and was wondering about the results. I will be sure to add a transmission cooler before I get it flushed.
 

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Function over form
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2,465 Posts
1) Timing HAS to be less than 6 degrees of timing between shifts. This will ensure the longevity of the transmission. Each car will be different as to how quick the timing will be ramped back in. Doing this incorrectly will result in a slow vehicle.
I was always curious how much timing the stock ECU pulled between shifts. I noticed with the AEM you can only control the maximum amount of timing pulled so, for example, if I set it to pull 25º max in 1º increments before the shift timeout then it will pull 25º during each shift whereas the stock ECU, I would imagine, would pull timing based on the load during the shift (wot, part throttle) so it has the ability to more accurately pull the best amount of timing for the shift. So, it would seem as though you can choose how much timing you want to pull but you'd have to stick to that value for all loads and wouldn't it potentially damage something? Pulling 25º of timing during acceleration from a stop light where my timing map is at 30º right before the shift event will put me at 5º minimum during the shift but pulling 25º when I'm WOT and my timing map is at say, 20º, then that would put me at -5º during the shift. Is that bad? Is that TOO much timing to pull? Do you ever want to have a negative timing value?
 
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