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Holy moly that looks fun!

I dont know exactly at what power level i am right now.(JDM 58mm [email protected]).(maybe 400whp)Transmission has around 140 k miles and ~60k were done by me. I removed trac throttle and trac ecu,check tps every 1-2 years and have been manually shifting it for around 5+ years.its a stock a340e with stock radiator cooler,stock converter.I plan on upgrading to an extra cooler on the passenger side.This is my daily car and it has seen lots of pulls.(45 celcius in summer here).At least every day.I dont know for how long it will last but upto now the oil during change(+trans filter) is not bad(every 15-20 k miles and i sent oil sample for analysis to know what is going on in there)
 

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I hate to bring up this topic again, especially after reading the full thread, but I am just curious what types of fluid people are running now.

In this thread I realize everyone is saying they should use Toyota Type T-IV, however the a340e 2JZ-GTE FSM states Dexron II or equivalent. I also see that some people are running Dexron III. My question is did Toyota come out with a statement that the Auto Trans should be changed from Dexron II as the manual states to Type-IV or is it something people are just doing? (Same question applies to Dexron III, which my dealer is telling me to use)

I am replacing my fluid and it is BROWN, like chocolate brown, so I am not sure how much life the trans will have left in it, not sure if this is burned fluid or clutch residue from hard driving. I want it to last as long as possible but want to put the best/correct fluid in it.


Also, I think I will be doing a dry fill, so I will need 8.7qts of fluid correct? Does that include the torque converter? I will be draining the fluid from the torque converter and am not sure how much fluid needs to be put back in. For a dry fill do I take my dry trans and dry torque converter, put them together and then fill the trans with 8.7qts and let that fill the torque converter? (or would you pour fluid into the torque converter and then hook it up?)
 

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Using T-IV is just a preference thing, tons of people say it works fine (and it does) and tons of other people will swear by sticking with the dexron stuff.

Dexron II is fine, III is better than II and compatible, and Dexron VI is backwards compatible with III and II (and much much better). If your fluid is that dirty I wouldn't put anything but II or III (or maybe T-IV) in it because the brand new (and better) fluid will scrape the inside of your trans clean and probably cause you more issues with all the junk floating around.

Unless you have the trans out and cleaned you aren't doing a dry fill. If you are, fill the torque converter as much as you can (it will be about halfway) and slide it on the input shaft. Fill the pan with 2-3 quarts and start the car, you'll have to add fluid after this point as the pump will suck fluid from the pan and fill the converter. Starting the car with the converter completely dry isn't recommended. Keep adding until the car moves in all gears and it reads up to the full mark on the dipstick when warm.
 

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Agree with SideWinderGX about the ATF. Remember, Dexron II was what was available when the FSM was written so that is what was recommended. The later versions (III and IV) are better, but any will work.
 

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First post mentions clutches and discs in the transmissions, here's what I dug up (sources are http://kai.supramania.com/Supra/A340 Series Repair Manual (RM216).pdf and http://94supraturbos.synthasite.com/resources/95_TSRM_PDF_FILES/ATM Unit Repair.pdf):

A340E (behind the 7MGTE):
O/D Direct Clutch (C0).........2/2
Forward Clutch (C1)............5/5
Direct Clutch (C2)................4/4
2nd Brake (B2)....................5/5
1st & Reverse Brake (B3).....6/6
O/D Brake (B0)...................4/3

A340E (behind the 2JZGTE):
O/D Direct Clutch (C0)..........2/2
Forward Clutch (C1).............7/7
Direct Clutch (C2)................5/5
No.2 Brake (B2)...................5/5
1st and Reverse Brake (B3)...7/7
O/D Brake (B0)....................5/5


In drive, first gear, clutches engaged:..................C0, C1
In drive, second gear, clutches engaged:..............C0, C1, B2
In drive, third gear, clutches engaged:.................C0, C1, B2, C2
In drive, fourth gear, clutches engaged:...............C1, B2, C2, B0


For the life of me I can't find out what the clutches are for lock-up, because the above are for (well, I'd assume anyways) fourth gear not locked up. The guy I spoke to at atfspeed said WOT in 4th is fine if necessary, the trans shouldn't lock up in 4th at WOT anyways.
 

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I have question about the factory temperature sensor I hope someone could enlighten me.

I'm replacing my BL tranny with an ATF and a custom FTI IP 4000 stall converter. I want to start monitoring tranny temps. So instead of installing a bunge in the pan for a temp sensor I was wondering if the feed coming out of the tranny with the factory temp sensor can be used? I realize this temp sensor is fed back to the ECU however I'm running a ProEFi and hoping to replace it with a Proefi temp sensor and connect to the ProEfi can gauge. I know the pan it probably more desirable but if the Toyota engineers design it that way why not use it.
 

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I have question about the factory temperature sensor I hope someone could enlighten me.

I'm replacing my BL tranny with an ATF and a custom FTI IP 4000 stall converter. I want to start monitoring tranny temps. So instead of installing a bunge in the pan for a temp sensor I was wondering if the feed coming out of the tranny with the factory temp sensor can be used? I realize this temp sensor is fed back to the ECU however I'm running a ProEFi and hoping to replace it with a Proefi temp sensor and connect to the ProEfi can gauge. I know the pan it probably more desirable but if the Toyota engineers design it that way why not use it.
I scaled the factory temp sensor in the ProEFI base cal and it is already wired in the adapter harness. You should be able to read it already. Note it is temp out of the converter so it will read hotter then the pan.
 

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I scaled the factory temp sensor in the ProEFI base cal and it is already wired in the adapter harness. You should be able to read it already. Note it is temp out of the converter so it will read hotter then the pan.
good info ... I'll make sure my tuner scales it and turns it on. thanks
 

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i would highly highly recommend not using the AEM v1 with the stock transmission. some how when i installed the AEM to test it in my car, the shifts were like the car just got rear ended! the line pressure was sky high. unless its a boost logic or other upgraded unit (now i know whey they are breaking left and right on AEM machines). never found the work around to lower the pressure in the line, just had to upgrade to a th400.
 

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I know your post was almost two months ago, but the rule is not to let the car shift into second gear while the tires are spinning as you might roll the 2nd gear sprag.

ATFSpeed sells an upgraded 2nd gear sprag. I believe the stock unit has a 22 element sprag (mine did, the MKIV transmissions might have a few more), and theirs is a 29 element sprag.
 

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Glad this thread is back! So I'm still on The BL but afraid to really throw big numbers at it afraid it won't hold an break. I'm wanting to run Nitrous for launches how hard is that on the stock transmission? I'm thinking I'm going to jus throw what I can at the BL an it it breaks go with a ATF or C&C Motorsports has anyone Ran C&C tranny? They state there's is just as good enough better then ATF an have Ran there Stage 3 at 1200whp an haven't had any issues they don't really quite yet know the Capability of the Stage 3?
 

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called toyota to get some T4 ATF for the supra and they kept telling me to get the dexron III fluid instead. wtf
 

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called toyota to get some T4 ATF for the supra and they kept telling me to get the dexron III fluid instead. wtf
Talk to someone else. Insist on the T4.
 

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A340e uses dextron III air ATF 3 from Toyota. The ATF 4 actually slips more than 3
That is what they gave me at the Toyota dealer, is that ok? I needed more fluid when I was in Tampa and they gave me the Toyota ATF at Induction Performance. Does Toyota not stock their own fluid anymore?
 

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I would like to see 1200whp through this stage 3... And videos?
The highest I have seen is 1000 at the wheels from baltic supra on his ATF unit. I saw someone post in another thread about, if ATF upgraded the input shaft it would make it easily good for 1000 and over. What are your thoughts on this?
 
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