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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
okay, so, for one reason or another, my car won't idle until it's warmed up, and it'll rev fine when sitting in neutral, BUT when you take it out on the road it won't go over around 3000 rpms, and it's bacfiring like a SOB to get to 3k. I read something in another post about "safe mode," yet I have no idea what that is exactly...

..anybody have any ideas? The only thing that I could come up with is that the fuel filter is clogged and it's just not getting enough fuel, or maybe the tps is off?


-Devon Goodspeed
 
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alloyguitar said:
okay, so, for one reason or another, my car won't idle until it's warmed up, and it'll rev fine when sitting in neutral, BUT when you take it out on the road it won't go over around 3000 rpms, and it's bacfiring like a SOB to get to 3k. I read something in another post about "safe mode," yet I have no idea what that is exactly...

..anybody have any ideas? The only thing that I could come up with is that the fuel filter is clogged and it's just not getting enough fuel, or maybe the tps is off?


-Devon Goodspeed
I had the same problem in the pass ,in my situation it was my ignaitor goin bad ..it is located on the right side of engine bay near and front of the shock mount.
 

· Your ignorance...
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I had a similar problem, turned out to be a bad knock sensor. Would run great till it saw boost, then just totally puked and wouldnt build boost or accelerate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
alright, so I ran the codes again and it threw the afm, knock sensor, and tps (41)

I'm curious, it just kind of occurred to me that my afm is upside down, like the plug is on the bottom, would this affect the air/fuel ratio?

I'm also thinking it's the knock sensor wires might have worked loose because of my solid motor mounts (the billet aluminum ones)

-Devon Goodspeed
 

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118 Posts
my cars doing the exact same thing, it runs great til 3000, builds full boost then dies.. has a knock sensor code, been trying to find one.. post up if you fix your problem with a knock sensor, i tried unpulgging my tps and it runs exactly the same with the tps totally unplugged so i don't know if thats bad too..... getting frustrated.
 

· function > form
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518 Posts
The bottom IC hose where it connects to the compressor outlet. I call it the compressor discharge. Also referred to as the hot pipe on DSMs and SR20s. You have to remove the accordian hose to get to it, and even then it may be hard to see without good lighting.
 

· Wingless by choice.
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I think devon and I finally found what the problem is. We were messing the the car today, and we decided to check the knock sensors, the front was fine, tried to get to the rear, (which is a bitch btw) get to it, and he started to pull the plug off. The whole plug came off, ALONG with HALF of the knock sensor, where the plug clamps down on the knock sensor, yea, that whole part came with the plug/wire. So I think we found whats wrong with the motor, I have a bunch of knock sensors, we'll fix it tommorow hopefully. :)
 

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Alright everyone, we all went to work on the car last night and still couldnt figure it out. We took the car down the road after swapping AFMs and the car ran fine until around the point that it SHOULD have built boost.

When it started to come out of vacuum there was no boost reading on the gauge and it actually went slower.

When it hit 4000 RPMs it was like hitting a rev limit.

We checked and re-checked for boost leaks in the piping and found nothing. we are all completely out of ideas, can anyone throw something out there that we haven't thought of yet?

Oh, and the TPS is not working properly, but we didn't think that would cause this problem.

*EDIT: Also, we swapped ignitors and fixed the knock sensor and still no cigar...
 
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