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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guts i replaced my master cylinder but my dumbself forgot to bench bleed it before installing, so i ended up installing it and bleeding it on the car by using the brake pedal, but my brakes are still soft and dont engage well. should i take it off and do it the right way?
 

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might as well, but you may need to check your push rod from the booster into the master. the aftermarket master may/will have a different distance from the rod to the plunger than the one you took out. so the rod has a small(8mm?) capped nut that you can adjust to meet the tolerance for the new master.
 

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pump twice? bleed that shit son! the nut is what pushes the plunger on the master cyl. it comes out of the brake booster
 

· Frozen Lake Driver
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Hook a line to the bleeder, starting from the tire farthest from the master. Then have a buddy push the pedal down and hold, Then crack the bleeder let some fluid flow out. Close the bleeder and have your buddy pump the pedal a few times and have him hold again and repeat the process till you get no air and new fluid out the line (best to use a clear hose).
And don't forget to have a cup for the fluid and don't let it flow backwards at all. From my experiences it's the only proper way to do the job.
 

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pressure bleeding with a friend is the best way to bleed brakes
at my work we have a pressurized tank with brake fluid inside...hook up the line to the master cylinder and began bleeding
but the brakes always seem spongy and need rebled using a friend to pump the pedal up
also i think you may have have to remove the master cylinder and bench bleed it
my buddy didnt do it on his merkur xr4ti and the master cylinder never worked until we removed it and bench bled it
 

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you start at the bleeder (not tire) farthest from the ABS pump, not the master(if you have abs)
 

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I am close to the Hills if you need help.
 

· Toyota Hybrid Tech
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dont mean to thread jack, but i had to buy a booster and a master cylinder and i had the problem of the brakes being on all the time. i tried to do the adjustment between the master and the booster but couldnt break the nut loose, the rod just kept spinning. is there a special tool to that can hold the rod? i have washers as shims right now to make it work lol

nick
 

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vice grips to grab the rod
 
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