i'm also interested in knowing how to change my plugs... i've got a couple of basic tools... but i am completely lost when it comes to changing my plugs and i'm willing to learn so any help would be appreciated... thanks
Changing your plugs is pretty straight forward. All you need to do is take off the cover on the front and the back of the head. Next you will need to take off your throttle body so that you can get to the two center plugs. Next you will need the 5/8" plug socket (if you don't have one you can find them at any auto store) and a good 6" extension. Next just stick the extension and the socket in and loosen the plugs. Do the reverse for putting in the plugs. When you put the plugs back in you should tighten to hand tightness and not to tight. You can break the plug if you tighten them to much, trust I've done this several times. I'm going to be changing my plugs soon, so I guess I have a write-up to do. Thanks
I'm going with the Denso Iridium. Denso part number IK16. I've heard that the NGK's idle rough but I've also heard great things about them. I've never heard anything bad about the Denso's, so that is why I'm going them.
i've also heard of some people changing their distributor cap and rotor at the same time as the plugs... where is this stuff located at? should i do the same? how much are parts? and how do i do it? thanks for the help.
Just to give you a precaution it could be just me but i have the worst LUCK with cars and doing basic stuff myself. BUT when i changed my plugs i was doing so well until the F(*&%^n socket got caught INSIDE the Spark Plug Area there it sat for weeks before i was able to finally get it out thanks be to the ratchet breaking where the socket wouldnt release from it i was able to pull out. You want a Snap On Tools extension so that if this does happen to you it is possible to get it out. Im not saying this is going to happen to you but just in case its good to know. But hey my bad luck i CHANGED THE OIL, JUST THE OIL on my prelude today well its sittin in my garage on jack stands because i couldnt get the oil filter off because it collapsed on my when i tried to unscrew it with the filter wrench (no idea how my luck is THAT bad). Anyway just given you a precaution.
We are building SC300 with a 2JZ-GE NA for a Bonneville Land Speed record attempt. We're working through all the engine mods including a lot of head work. Based on the regulations we will need to run VP Racing Fuel C14. Possibly C14+ but it's unclear if that will pass tech.
Does anyone have...
Hi guys (and gals),
Where have you folks installed your single egt sensor and how well did it work?
I have a 2JZ-GE na-t car (non-vvti) and am curious where is the best place to weld in my AEM egt sensor (rtd type) bung. [easy access vs accurate readings... closer to an exhaust valve is more...
So I am considering doing the COP conversion and not messing with the dizzy at all during an NA-T install. I just so happened to stumble upon these and couldn't find any info or anyone that had used them in the search...
Does anyone know where I can buy some simple brackets that secure the IS300 coil packs in our non-vvti 2JZ-GE engines? I performed this coil pack conversion from a distributor cap and am planning a road trip, so I prefer them to be bolted down in a secure manner. :)
Hi guys (and gals?),
I’m in the process of upgrading my timing belt and crank pulley. When I aligned the bolt hole notches and overlaid my new Flyuidampr crank pully over the oem 2JZ-GE (non-vvti) one, the Fluidampr’s timing mark was at -2 degrees inline with the oem crank pulley’s white...