Cheap vs expensive paint job
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Quality of work, materials, amount of labor, parts being removed (such as glass pulled), and more.
Look at the quality of the work on the cars they have painted before. Ask for references and also look at the cars on the lot. Is that how you want your car to look? Shop for quality, not for price; you don't want to skimp on paint work.
Look at the quality of the work on the cars they have painted before. Ask for references and also look at the cars on the lot. Is that how you want your car to look? Shop for quality, not for price; you don't want to skimp on paint work.
Paint Paint
Hello all,
Since this is a paint thread, does anyone have any advise on which particular brand of paint is better in terms of shine, quality, durability etc.
How much layers of clear can one use after painting to create that look of 'depth'?
About primers, are there anything special about those or is that just general stuff?
Metallics & Pearls, what's the difference?????
I can't seem to find a good resource about these questions?
I'm not trying to jack your thread. Let me know if you think I am. Thanks.
Hello all,
Since this is a paint thread, does anyone have any advise on which particular brand of paint is better in terms of shine, quality, durability etc.
How much layers of clear can one use after painting to create that look of 'depth'?
About primers, are there anything special about those or is that just general stuff?
Metallics & Pearls, what's the difference?????
I can't seem to find a good resource about these questions?
I'm not trying to jack your thread. Let me know if you think I am. Thanks.
I own a shop, I give people a choice, do you want it to look factory, better than factory, show quality? or do you want it to shine for the next few years? you got single stage paint jobs, macco, then you have bace coat/clear coat paint jobs, factory. another thing you have to take in consideration, like superstar stated, do you want the glass pulled, door handles, side mirrors, bumpers, side skirts, headlight/taillights, etc.? All this starts adding up, BUT, that is the best way to have it done. If you want the best job you can have, you need everything taken off the car. I like PPG myself, they have a cheaper line they sell called OMNI Plus. You can use it for all-overs. Then you have a good clear put over it, there again, you usually put no more than three coats of clear. If you want more than that, the shop will need to let it cure for at least a week, then they will need to sand it back down and reclear it. then if you want all the orange peel taken out, they would need to cut and buff the whole car. The TV shows really make it look easy, but what you do not see is the hord of people helping to get that car to the point where one guy is standing by it painting it. They dont usually show it getting sanded and buffed so that it looks like glass when you look at it.
Supra469,
I am personally gonna put 3 different coats of clear on my car. What I mean by that is, I will put three coats of clear on it, let it cure, then repeat that process two more times or untill I have the look I want.
As far as primers go, most primers are ok, you mainly want a urathane primer.
Metallics are what you usually see and a car that is not a soild color, usually if it has a shimer to it, its a metallic. Pearls are what you see on white caddys most s the time and some nissans. looks like the shimer is actually over the color. usually shops charge more for pearls because it takes more steps to do these paint jobs
Supra469,
I am personally gonna put 3 different coats of clear on my car. What I mean by that is, I will put three coats of clear on it, let it cure, then repeat that process two more times or untill I have the look I want.
As far as primers go, most primers are ok, you mainly want a urathane primer.
Metallics are what you usually see and a car that is not a soild color, usually if it has a shimer to it, its a metallic. Pearls are what you see on white caddys most s the time and some nissans. looks like the shimer is actually over the color. usually shops charge more for pearls because it takes more steps to do these paint jobs
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in most cases the more u pay the better the paint job.
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1,522 Posts
+1
and also higher price DOES NOT always mean better!!!!!!!!!!! I painted 2 different supras from white to black and one paint job I paid exactly HALF the price of the other paint job and it was a 10 times better paint job than the more expensive job.
Definetly pull all the glass and seals.
Thanks JRM,
Can you expound on the reason why "you" like PPG paints as opposed to HOK or the other brands out there?
Is there any limits to the number of layers of clear that can be applied from a thickness standpoint.
For the MKII Supras there is the color: Medium Pearl Red. That color looks awesome!!! On a clean car it looks WET, like it was just sprayed on. I love how that looks.
Since my car is blue, I was thinking of getting the color: Medium Pearl Blue
Thoughts?
When I am ordering my paint mix, I plan on ordering about 3 cars worth of paint, so in the event I need to respray a panel or bumper I will have some of the original mix available, since no 2 mixes will ever be exact & accurate. Is that being too anal?? LOL Thoughts?
My car will not be a show car, but I want a fresh coat of paint and to be honest, I do love my factory finish, although faded a bit etc, but there's very little orange peel etc.
I would like a respray like that or better.
Thoughts everyone. Thanks.
Can you expound on the reason why "you" like PPG paints as opposed to HOK or the other brands out there?
So that's going to be a total of 9 coats of clear?? Am I understanding that correctly?? Is this going to be a show car?
Is there any limits to the number of layers of clear that can be applied from a thickness standpoint.
For the MKII Supras there is the color: Medium Pearl Red. That color looks awesome!!! On a clean car it looks WET, like it was just sprayed on. I love how that looks.
Since my car is blue, I was thinking of getting the color: Medium Pearl Blue
Thoughts?When I am ordering my paint mix, I plan on ordering about 3 cars worth of paint, so in the event I need to respray a panel or bumper I will have some of the original mix available, since no 2 mixes will ever be exact & accurate. Is that being too anal?? LOL Thoughts?
My car will not be a show car, but I want a fresh coat of paint and to be honest, I do love my factory finish, although faded a bit etc, but there's very little orange peel etc.
I would like a respray like that or better.
Thoughts everyone. Thanks.
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Werd.
You don't necessarily get what you pay for. What IS true is that you rarely get something without paying for it, but to think that you automatically get a better paint job just because you pay more is foolish. In the car repair business there are PLENTY of shops out there who charge out the ass but do shitty work. Do your homework. Good luck!
BTW, if you are willing to bring the car to Jacksonville, there's a great shop up here that will give you top quality work. Fellow Supra owner (actually 6, I think) and all. Elite Custom Body & Paint. Stefan is the owner. 904-721-3788
I cant decide between black or red ( currently red ) I don't know how much more black would be, how dose that work as far as engine bay goes if I'm switching colors, I originally wanted to strip the car before the swap and get it sprayed . I like the wet look too , anyone know of any good shops around Chicago? We got any paint ppl here man I got some qs.
MDSUPERSTAR , I like your paint job, looks like mine only not crappy. ( that would be the red I'm shooting for, isint it cheaper and better looking if you respray same color? )
MDSUPERSTAR , I like your paint job, looks like mine only not crappy. ( that would be the red I'm shooting for, isint it cheaper and better looking if you respray same color? )
469,
PPG has good coverage, HOK is a great paint also, But they are usually more expensive. Most of your major names offer similar things. If your looking for a factory color, there really isnt much reason, unless you just want HOK, to use them. Most shops that put cars back to a factory finish, use BASF(what they use on OVERHAULIN), PPG, Du Pont, Sikkens, etc. HOK is more of a custom color company, your other companies offer most of the same stuff, they just aren't known for them. You will get different answers from different people, depends on what the spray.
Yes, I will more than likely have @ 9 coats of clear. But I do plan on doing a lot of buffing on the car when it is done. That is what gives it that smooth as glass look. you start sanding with 1200 then go to 1500, 2000, 2500, then cap it off with 3000 grit wet sanding, then buff it till it looks like you could fall into it.
Usually, as long as you give it plenty of time to cure between coats, you can put on as much as you like.
As far as changing the color, if the blue is different from what you already have, your jambs(inside you doors, fenders, under the hood, @ the inside of the hatch, etc.) will not match. I am not sure as to how different these colors are. Sometimes if they are close, you canget away with it. If they are noticably different, you will have to have the car taken apart,
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e203/jrm747/DSCN1324.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e203/jrm747/DSCN1341.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e203/jrm747/DSCN1360.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e203/jrm747/DSCN1501.jpg
just to give you an example.
I wouldn't worry to much about all that extra paint. A full gallon of paint would be more than enough for you, you should have some let over. The reason I say this is because your car is gonna fade. So even with the same color paint it will not match unless something where to happen within a year or so. A good shop should be able to blend your paint right so that you would never notice any difference.
PPG has good coverage, HOK is a great paint also, But they are usually more expensive. Most of your major names offer similar things. If your looking for a factory color, there really isnt much reason, unless you just want HOK, to use them. Most shops that put cars back to a factory finish, use BASF(what they use on OVERHAULIN), PPG, Du Pont, Sikkens, etc. HOK is more of a custom color company, your other companies offer most of the same stuff, they just aren't known for them. You will get different answers from different people, depends on what the spray.
Yes, I will more than likely have @ 9 coats of clear. But I do plan on doing a lot of buffing on the car when it is done. That is what gives it that smooth as glass look. you start sanding with 1200 then go to 1500, 2000, 2500, then cap it off with 3000 grit wet sanding, then buff it till it looks like you could fall into it.
Usually, as long as you give it plenty of time to cure between coats, you can put on as much as you like.
As far as changing the color, if the blue is different from what you already have, your jambs(inside you doors, fenders, under the hood, @ the inside of the hatch, etc.) will not match. I am not sure as to how different these colors are. Sometimes if they are close, you canget away with it. If they are noticably different, you will have to have the car taken apart,
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e203/jrm747/DSCN1324.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e203/jrm747/DSCN1341.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e203/jrm747/DSCN1360.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e203/jrm747/DSCN1501.jpg
just to give you an example.
I wouldn't worry to much about all that extra paint. A full gallon of paint would be more than enough for you, you should have some let over. The reason I say this is because your car is gonna fade. So even with the same color paint it will not match unless something where to happen within a year or so. A good shop should be able to blend your paint right so that you would never notice any difference.
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673 Posts
yeah jrm is definetly hitting the nail on the head!
i too have my own body shop, and i also like ppg, and if you go w/ black you want to use dbc, the omni line of black is purpleish brown and looks like ass against the dbc blk!
and get the 4000 clear that stuff is so nice and crystal clear!
and the pricing varys for multiple reasons
and what jrm was saying about the whites that look like they are over the color and in the clear to give it that depth look is called a tri coat and that is alot more work, and money!
plus is harder to fix if you have a fender bender down the road!
and yeah a gallon should be plenty!
i too have my own body shop, and i also like ppg, and if you go w/ black you want to use dbc, the omni line of black is purpleish brown and looks like ass against the dbc blk!
and get the 4000 clear that stuff is so nice and crystal clear!
and the pricing varys for multiple reasons
and what jrm was saying about the whites that look like they are over the color and in the clear to give it that depth look is called a tri coat and that is alot more work, and money!
plus is harder to fix if you have a fender bender down the road!
and yeah a gallon should be plenty!
xbworkz,
have you heard from about the omni plus, they just told me about it. and that was there way of explaning it to me, using the black as the example, they told me that this was a true black instead of the not really black of the regular omni. i dunno, i am trying some out now with a PR3, new dodge chrarger daytona red.
TRAFIK,
i would say to change colors, doing the jams and all, i would charge @ 3-5k, depends on the color, how much buffing you want done(as far as show car look or factory), any body work, etc.. its hard to price over the phone, so to speak. i have heard a guy say he was quoted $5500 to spray his ford ranger the same color. there are all kinds of ways to price something. i will tell you this, if i tell you 5k to do it, thats gonna be one sweet looking paint job when i get done. if you try and negotiate the price, you start negotiating the work that is going to be done to your car. then graphics and all start adding it up to.
have you heard from about the omni plus, they just told me about it. and that was there way of explaning it to me, using the black as the example, they told me that this was a true black instead of the not really black of the regular omni. i dunno, i am trying some out now with a PR3, new dodge chrarger daytona red.
TRAFIK,
i would say to change colors, doing the jams and all, i would charge @ 3-5k, depends on the color, how much buffing you want done(as far as show car look or factory), any body work, etc.. its hard to price over the phone, so to speak. i have heard a guy say he was quoted $5500 to spray his ford ranger the same color. there are all kinds of ways to price something. i will tell you this, if i tell you 5k to do it, thats gonna be one sweet looking paint job when i get done. if you try and negotiate the price, you start negotiating the work that is going to be done to your car. then graphics and all start adding it up to.
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673 Posts
jrmsupra-
no i havn''t heard? i will have to see what the deal is, because the black they use to have in that line was terrible!
but i've always had better luck w/ the dbc anyways?
do you use the 3000 and 4000 clear?
stuff is great! little pricey, but works good!
didn't like the omni clear too runny, and i guess there is or was a clear inbetween the two that was a little cheaper, but havn't tried it?
trafik
color changes are always alot more money, being your doing jams and all, compared to just the exterior, doors shut,etc.
no i havn''t heard? i will have to see what the deal is, because the black they use to have in that line was terrible!
but i've always had better luck w/ the dbc anyways?
do you use the 3000 and 4000 clear?
stuff is great! little pricey, but works good!
didn't like the omni clear too runny, and i guess there is or was a clear inbetween the two that was a little cheaper, but havn't tried it?
trafik
color changes are always alot more money, being your doing jams and all, compared to just the exterior, doors shut,etc.
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3,465 Posts
Thanks, I do my best to keep it looking right.
Yes it is 3L2 RRHere are more pictures: http://supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=374623
WORKZ,
you are completely right about the normal omni black, but they told me to omni plus is a true black. i havent tried it yet, but i just jammed some parts with a red, looks pretty good. i havent used much of the ppg clear, i have used some of the omni clear, well shop line is what they call it i think. i use a lot of Utech 4.0 clear. it really just depends on the amount i am getting paid to do the job. know what i mean? i was spraying basf, they have a dc5300 clear that is unreal looking. but it is pricey too. the dbc is the best way to go, but hey, if someone wants a decent all over, not show worthy, im usin omni/omni plus. people around here dont wanna pay a whole lot. there again, to an extent, you get what you pay for,
you are completely right about the normal omni black, but they told me to omni plus is a true black. i havent tried it yet, but i just jammed some parts with a red, looks pretty good. i havent used much of the ppg clear, i have used some of the omni clear, well shop line is what they call it i think. i use a lot of Utech 4.0 clear. it really just depends on the amount i am getting paid to do the job. know what i mean? i was spraying basf, they have a dc5300 clear that is unreal looking. but it is pricey too. the dbc is the best way to go, but hey, if someone wants a decent all over, not show worthy, im usin omni/omni plus. people around here dont wanna pay a whole lot. there again, to an extent, you get what you pay for,
http://www.basfrefinish.com/vta/R-M/videos.htm cool site about painting crap found it when I was looking for dc5300
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