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Discussion Starter #1
I just got my 89T back from a rebuild, and now the check engine light went on. Mechanic said he got an AFM code. Anyone have any suggestions, other than buying a new one(cant really afford it). Car still runs fine for normal driving.

Also, does the car retard timing when the check engine light goes on? What exactly happens, because the car doesnt feel like it pulls very hard at higher RPM...it gets boost 6psi(stock guage) and holds it until redline...but power doesnt rise with RPM. I figured maybe if it isnt reading airflow correctly it might just be dumping fuel running pig rich. LMKWYT

Thanks for any help.

-Jon
 

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The Great Kruso
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Check for boost leaks and a possible bad BOV, btw, WUT the heck are you doing near red line if you just got it back from a rebuild???

Kruso
 

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Some Guy With A Supra
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is it plugged in??? i forgot one time, stupid ass mistake, but mine ran like shit though, hardly at all.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
boost leaks

maybe this is the opportune time to make some PVC intercooler pipes.

The mechanic said it didnt need any more breakin. He ran it normally for about 2-300 miles and used clevite bearings.

Ive never felt the car when it was working properly...but I should ask this to be sure: Power IS supposed to rise with RPM even after full boost right? What RPM should I feel my peak thrust?

Thanks for the suggestions.

-Jon

PS - It doesnt run like shit, it just feels like its lacking some power.
 

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boost freak
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if you're getting the AFM code, the car is certainly NOT going to be up to max power. since the ECU doesn't know how much air is coming it, its almost impossible for it to make any sort of guess on how much fuel to meter, so it just runs hyper-pig rich. get a "new" used AFM, shouldn't be more than $50.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
this is weird

its alot colder today, and the check engine light goes on and comes off...its on most of the time, but goes off VERY RARELY when I am at idle or low speed while I shift 1-2. Whats the deal! Can a mechanically-oriented person 'fix' an afm if i get in there? What would have actually broken in the AFM? Guesses please.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Guess? Well, if it was recently rebuilt...my guess is Mr. Mechanic decided to clean out the AFM with carburator cleaner. That'll kill 'em :D Ummmm humggggh....now I'ma get me some biscuits 'n mustard.

Sorry, don't know where that came from.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
naw

he said that in the 2-300 miles of driving that he did on the car to make sure everything worked that it didnt once come on. Then the day before he gave me back the car it came on... he says he isnt sure what the problem is other than he got an AFM code..so he says he thinks the AFM is probably shot. I wasnt going to push it because as it stood he only charged me $500 labor for the whole rebuild.
 

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Registered
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Check the brown ground wire coming from the O2 sensor on the female side of the clip by the turbo. If this is broken or cracked it will cause a code 31 (AFM). I have no idea why this is, no manual say anything about it. I only found it was my problem after 2 months of code 31 frustration. I cut out a 10" section and replaced it with coaxial cable. (the wire has to be sheilded)
 

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Some Guy With A Supra
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will the heat from the turbo/ manifold damage the O2 sensor wires if they're not protected well? I crimped those wires and wrapped with elect. tape. Afraid of it melting.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
wow

thanks mostly

Ill check that when I can get some light on this thing. That would explain why it comes on and goes off sometimes.
 
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