hey guys do you think i will feel a difference after i put the clutchmasters stage III clutch on w/ a JUN Racing lightweight flywheel?? and how hard is it to drive w/ the stage III clutch?? please reply asap
you really shouldn't get a stage 3. There only made for offroad use, which means flooring it all the time, If you drive it on the street it will blow in about 4 months, believe me I know. Go with whatever the street clutch is. You will be happier.
I am running an ACT stage 3 clutch right now and it is not really streetable. Its more or less either GO or Dont. It hasnt gone out on me yet however i dont daily drive it do i doubt there is many miles on the clutch. It is a challenge to drive though BUT you can have so much fun with it when it grabs as hard as it does. I powershift and get third gear scratches on the highway all the time and people look at you like NO WAY you just did that. Anyway just my 2 cents IF you use it as a daily driver as Stone said the most streetable/raceable clutch you can get.
i would say go with a act street clutch thats what i had in my mx-6 about a year ago can i could cirp them all the way to 4th no joke ( with no so good tires), but 3ed was easy to cirp. you'll like it go with act.
yea go with the ACT street, my brother has one in his V6 MX-6 and it chrips 4th gear at 85, its pretty awesome. Flywheel I don't think you need one that light, if it is that light sometimes it makes people slower b/c you lose so many rpms in the shift you can't stay in the power band.
On the Flywheel im not sure what kinda increase and stuff you can expect. I asked my mechanic whether or not that would be a significant increase and he said as far as rotating mass it would help BUT it may throw off the balance of the engine. If you have your engine balanced i think it may solve that problem. Anyhow it should make your car respond alot more and rev much quicker. Just see if you can get some more opinions on the flywheels i havent heard much about em but hypothetically you should see a significant increase in power by eliminating the heavier flywheel and the rotating mass assiciated with it.
By using the lighter flywheel the engine will rev quicker but it wont lanch as well or hit the gears as hard when shifting. They work great on turbo cars but the heavier n/a cars tend to bog off the line. It takes a little more to get theat heavier flywheel moving but the mass makes up for it when shifting gears.
Gottahaveboost...what do you mean by heavier N/A car? the NA is about 200 lbs lighter than the tt. It will actually help you to make a quicker start because there is less weight to spin.
I ment in comparison to cars that are very light like the 240 and celicas. As far as launching goes, the heavier flywheel will launch harder because of the enertia of the rotating mass. When you wind up a light weight flywheel and dump the clutch it tends to bog quite a bit more than the heavier units will. I put a jun flywheel on my twin turbo Z and it was great when the car was in motion but it took more throttle to launch it even close to the factory unit and thats will 430rwh.
So I am considering doing the COP conversion and not messing with the dizzy at all during an NA-T install. I just so happened to stumble upon these and couldn't find any info or anyone that had used them in the search...
Does anyone know where I can buy some simple brackets that secure the IS300 coil packs in our non-vvti 2JZ-GE engines? I performed this coil pack conversion from a distributor cap and am planning a road trip, so I prefer them to be bolted down in a secure manner. :)
Hi guys (and gals?),
I’m in the process of upgrading my timing belt and crank pulley. When I aligned the bolt hole notches and overlaid my new Flyuidampr crank pully over the oem 2JZ-GE (non-vvti) one, the Fluidampr’s timing mark was at -2 degrees inline with the oem crank pulley’s white...
Has anyone experienced a high idle 2500 rpm + (that keeps increasing) after you converted from distributor to the IS300 coil packs with AEM EMS v1 (or similar engine management system)? I set the base ignition timing with AEMPower's wizard, and made sure the throttle body...
I'm in need of a base map to load to my DET 3 tuner. I'm very hesitant in making any adjustments on my own without a base map to start from. My current setup is pretty basic.
-Precision 6176 turbo & IC
-Tial WG set at 10psi
-AEM UEGO wideband
-ECU Master DET3 piggyback