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Texas Roadhouse FTW !
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
i was just driving normal and i pushed the clutch in and it went to the floor and never came back up ! So i drift into a parking lot and my car is dripping clutch fluid(dot 3 brake fluid) so i go to advanced and buy some and fill it up and try pumping the pedal and same thing it just sticks to the floor. Then i look under the car and its pouring out of this.... please help im new to all this. i just bought the car 3 weeks ago.


u can see where the fluid is coming out in this pic

all the fluid that came out on the ground

so i unhooked it just to see if i could do anything so i would have to get towed home. does this look right, like its not missing anything ?

and the end result
 

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That's the clutch slave cylinder. Replace it and have someone help you bleed all the air out and you'll be fine. You may want to look inside the bellhousing and make sure your clutch isn't soaked with fluid. If it is you may want to take the tranny out and clean it with brake clean.
 

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That's the clutch slave cylinder. Replace it and have someone help you bleed all the air out and you'll be fine. You may want to look inside the bellhousing and make sure your clutch isn't soaked with fluid. If it is you may want to take the tranny out and clean it with brake clean.
i dont think a little brake fluid on the pressure plate/clutch assembly would hurt much if any... just replace the slave cylinder like chevy2man said and you should be fine. Good luck!
 

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Texas Roadhouse FTW !
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Discussion Starter #4
thank you guys for the help. guess i should contact curt from elmhurst to get one of those ?
 

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yes............slave cylinder
 

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Texas Roadhouse FTW !
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Discussion Starter #6
yes............slave cylinder

well thats nice of you to reply in my thread now if i could get u to reply to the PM i sent you the other day then id really be happy haha:p
 

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Texas Roadhouse FTW !
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Discussion Starter #8
is there anything that could have messed up when that slave cylinder broke ? the car was running while i was drifting into the parkin lot and i heard a rattle coming from like by the tranny.
 

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Your car should be completely fine, this is a common failure. Replace the slave cylinder and bleed the clutch system and you will be good to go.
 

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Be sure to get a 5 sided open end wrench when you unbolt that pressure fitting on the metal line. I had to do this on my old 300zx TT and stripped that one bolt and had to spend a LOT of time replacing all the metal lines because of that one bolt!

when you're bleading the system, make sure you DO NOT let the master cylinder run out of fluid. just a few dry pumps can destroy the master cylinder seal.
 

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honestly I would say the release fork broke. Thus allowing the slave cylinder to over extend and leak. Thats what happened with mine, but I just drove it 50miles home shifting without the clutch. The other part of the fork was in the bottom of the bell housing chilling, so no damage. Just ordered a new fork and threw it in. But maybe the seal on the slave cyl blew. Mine it was the fork though, and its common on high milage supras
 

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Inline for the win
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Probably just failed due to detoriation of the seal. The breaking of the clutch fork is plausible, but I doubt it. Take the inspection cover off to check the clutch fork, pin and holder.

You could of drove it home, but its very tricky as you have to start in gear at every stop light with the engine off. When you crank the engine the vehicle will begin to drive it away.

I had to do this when I broke the slide during a 8k RPM shift into 4th at 100MPH. The pedal stayed on the floor and new it was one of the three things: Fork, slave or slide.

DP
 

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(Rare & Unique)
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Be sure to get a 5 sided open end wrench when you unbolt that pressure fitting on the metal line. I had to do this on my old 300zx TT and stripped that one bolt and had to spend a LOT of time replacing all the metal lines because of that one bolt!

when you're bleading the system, make sure you DO NOT let the master cylinder run out of fluid. just a few dry pumps can destroy the master cylinder seal.
+ 1 on this. An in-line wrench is the correct tool when working with clutch/brake/fuel lines. Eliminates the chance of stripping the nut. Everything should be ok after the fix. I know your heart must have dropped when it first happened ..lol
 

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Texas Roadhouse FTW !
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Discussion Starter #14
honestly I would say the release fork broke. Thus allowing the slave cylinder to over extend and leak. Thats what happened with mine, but I just drove it 50miles home shifting without the clutch. The other part of the fork was in the bottom of the bell housing chilling, so no damage. Just ordered a new fork and threw it in. But maybe the seal on the slave cyl blew. Mine it was the fork though, and its common on high milage supras
yea see i bet that happened. Seriously it went out and i was goin like 5 mph on a main road so i had to coast into this parking lot and as im drifting into the lot i hear like rattling and clanking coming from under the car like someone was shaking a penny inside of a pop can. So then i pulled into a space and turned it off and tried filling it up with fluid and it filled up but as i was pumping the clutch u could see it all dripping right out underneath the car.:tear:
 

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Texas Roadhouse FTW !
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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
UPDATE :

took off that access panel


so all i have to do is buy a new (release fork ?) and put that on then buy a new slave cylinder and put that in also and i should be good to go ?


 

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Texas Roadhouse FTW !
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Discussion Starter #18
Unless the release fork is also broken, you only need a support #31236-14030 and a slave cyl. #31470-14060.
hmm what is the thing thats broke in the picture called ? and how can i tell if the release fork is broken and where is the support ?
 

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yep thats the part that broke on mine, cost like 70-90 from curt, he said its common. Can be swapped out without removing the tranny, its super easy. also your release fork is still floating around in there if you did not pull it out.
its to the left in the pic. just pull it out order new mount and your good. like a 20 mins fix tops bro
 

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adammackintosh.net
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its time for me to make a post in here:

Few weeks ago I was driving up to Tim Horton's to grab a coffee and as I pulled into the parking lot and threw it into 1st gear, the pedal went down.... and didn't come up.

My house was all downhill from there, bout 5 blocks, so my buddy and I pushed the car to get it rolling and I popped it into 1st gear no prob.
Revved up to about 4k rpm and threw it back into neutral and coasted home.

At that point I already had my suspicions about what happened because I have read alot on supraforums :)
I thought it was either the release fork support, or the bolts on the firewall that hold something (all I know is that the rivets can break with a heavy pedal aftermarket clutch)

I popped the inspection plate and instantly saw the problem. My clutch release fork support was broken in the exact same manner as shown in this thread.

As we all know, pictures are the best medicine; So I have included some key pictures from tonight, at the bottom of the post.
So heres what you need to do if your release fork support breaks. (I suspect this occurance will get more prevalent as of now because were up into 16 year old release forks and some very high mile supras :))

1) Take both inspection plates off your bellhousing. Or at least the left side one where the slave cyl is. Taking the other side off may help to get pieces of shrapnal out.

2) Verify release fork is broken. (if broken there will be a piece in the bottom of the case. your release fork will also be somewhere loose in there. order a new fork support and the spring attached to it)

3) Verify if slave cylinder push rod is intact or broken (if broken there will be a piece of it in the bottom of the case and you will order a new slave cyl assembly)

These are the only parts involved, and unfortunately for me, when the release fork broke loose from the support it violently snapped the end of my slave cyl push rod.

I have the reciept here:
31470-14060 CYLINDER ASSY LIST 70.41 COST 53.76
31234-14020 SPRING, RELEASE LIST 2.43 COST 1.85
31236-14030 SUPPORT, RELEASE LIST 37.10 COST 28.32

$100 shipped up to west canada from Elmhurst Toyota.

4) You will need to pick up some dilithium grease and loctite for this job. (oh and some dot3 fluid for clutch line (verify fluid type though before you grab some))

Grab a few tools:
10mm wrench (clutch line union)
12mm socket (inspection plates and slave cyl)
14mm wrench (fork support)
Container to hold clutch fluid, not a huge amount of fluid comes out, but it is nasty juice that you will want to contain.

5) Remove clutch line from slave cyl (i recommend you remove both unions near the slave cyl and set that clutch line aside (it will help you remove the fork support bolts easier))

6) Remove the 2 bolts holding the slave cylinder to the bellhousing. Rip that baby out and throw it across the street.

7) Take out the 2 bolts holding the fork support in. This may be hard, and there should be loctite on the bolts so it will take some anger to break them free. I found these 2 bolts very annoying and you may find out why.

8) Halfway point. Reinstall time.

9) Note how the support goes back in with the spring on it, to avoid any confusion. Apply loctite to bolts and install the new fork support pivot.
(torque down bolts to 18 ft lb)

10) Apply dilithium grease to contact points on the release fork. Install it back onto the fork support. It will 'click' in once it gets on there and the click noise is it setting onto the spring. If it doesnt click then its probably not on there, it will feel snug and secure once its set properly.

11) Install new slave cylinder. You may need to push in the pushrod to allow it to be bolted in. Do so firmly yet gently and make sure you push the rod straight into the cylinder not on a crazy angle. (tighten the 2 bolts to 9 ft lb)

12) Install clutch line back into slave cylinder. Its not easy so dont get mad. Dont strip the threads but do use the wrench to get it started. (union bolts are torqued to 11 ft lb)

13) Reinstall inspection plate(s) (torque bolts to 9 ft lb), bleed clutch and adjust clutch pedal.

14) ??????
15) Profit.

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Broken fork support and slave cyl push rod:


New fork support installed:


Apply dilithium grease to all contact points on the fork:


Pushrod is too long, we need to push it into the cylinder so it can bolt up:


Done, clutch line goes on after this and then you adjust&bleed clutch!:


The only other thing I should mention is that the fork itself sits on top of the release hub. It should be obvious but there is room for confusion. You can see the part where it sits on in the first 2 pics. Its the lip/edge with the scratched/lighter coloured area.

I did this job by the TSRM, which you should at least look at first.
The only thing it didnt show was exactly how the release fork goes in or how the fork sits on the support pivot.
Luckily theres really only 1 way for both, so dont be alarmed.


Good luck... The best part about this job is you can do it without taking the transmission off.
 
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