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Discussion Starter #1
ok this morning i go out and start my car to let it warm up. i push the clutch and it was fine, but i wasnt really paying attention. well i go back out to leave and i get it and push the clutch and it goes to the floor with no pressure. im like wtf!? i pull it back up with my hand and push on it again and its stiff and i can't even push it down at all.

i wait like 5 seconds and then push it again and theres no pressure.

my clutch fluid is full and it was fine last night.
 

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Hey man,

you probably pushed the slave neck right out some how and all the fluid leaked out.. Careful don't start the car now you may have tons of fluid in teh bell hosuing.

Check it out... Also check for fluid inside the cabin by the clutch peddle maybe a master.. but sounds more like you some how over extended the slave and all the fluid leaked out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
well i started my car and it was running when my clutch wouldnt do anything. after i figured i dont know what the hell happened i turned my car off and checked the clutch fluid in the resivoir and it was full.
)im at work so i cant mess with it) but i called my Mother and had her look around and the fluid is full, theres not fluid by the pedal and theres no fluid leaking out of the master.
she pushed the clutch in and it went to the floor and pushed it again and it was kinda spongy but it never got stuck like it did when i tried.

could a clutch all of a sudden need bleed?
 

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Sounds like your master cylinder (the one that the pedal is attached to) piston is tweaked and was binding OR you have some dirt between the piston and wall which allowed air into the system and also caused the binding of the piston (hard pedal effort). Try replacing the fluid first but more than likely you will need to rebuild or replace the master (only about $100 new).
 

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My exact same symtoms were caused by a failure of the clutch release bearing hub right at the snap-ring ( bottom center in this image).

The clutch fork would push easily as it was no longer releasing the clutch (this was the one no-resistance press followed by a manual lift) then the fork was up against a solid object and the clutch pedal would no longer go down at all. It was like a rock.

Easy to check. Jack up the drivers side and remove the 2 bolts holding the access panel on the bell housing. See if your clutch fork is at maximum travel.

If it is borked, good luck to ya. I had to replace the clutch, throwout bearing, and clutch release bearing hub. =/

As I recall, the failure was caused by incorrect greasing. The ToB is intended to spin at all times. Unlike most push-type clutches. The outer race should always be at the speed of the pressure plate "fingers" and the inner race should always match the release hub that it rides on.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
how do you check the travel or the fork?
i have a 5 speed N/A parts car, would the master cylinder work off of that if thats whats wrong?

i just got a new spec stage 3 installed with new TO bearing and some other small bearing that came with it!!!!
Man that is gonna suck so much freakin ass if thats what it is!!
hope its something simple cuz i dont have all kinds of money.
if it is the TO bearing and there is a warranty for the labor but not the parts do you think they would take it apart and check it out and see if its there fuk up? assuming thats whats wrong!
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
ok im home now and can mess with it.
If it helps 87 Turbo

i can push on it and it has no pressure on it but it wont push down all the way, maybe 2-3 from the floor. but it i push it will stay there. i checked for leaks and theres nothing i can see.

so could like the clutch fork have poped out or something?
if so how could i go along to check that and fix it?
plz help, i need my car.

Im gonna get a pic. i opened the little window thing where you can see the flywheel and i dont think this thing is suppose to be this way!!
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Ok this is inside the little window. plz tell me what there is wrong with this Pic if there is anything.
The thing circled in YELLOW, i can move those rings back and forth, is there something missing there?
the thing circled in RED i can move that left and right.


I got under there and looked in there when my mom pushed my cluch in and that fork moves to the left of that image and looks like it has been pushing or rubbing that spot cuz there is like a little dip where it touched that thing to the left of the fork.

I guess it looks like its not engaging?? cuz its not pushing against that thing hard enough?

i bled the clutch and my mom was pushing the clutch in when i oped the valve the clutch pedal went to the floor but after wards nothing is different.

also my engagment point before on my clutch pedal used to be like 2 inched in from the top so i guess the pedal just isnt engaging. i have no idea.
someone plz help me.
 
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your snap ring popped off on the inside of your pressure plate if you look closely the hub is moving but your pressure plate is not. youll need to pull down the trans. and probably buy new snap rings they may be worn
 

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Discussion Starter #13
how would the snap ring pop off?
where would i get another one?
i guess that wouldnt be under a labor warranty....
cost me $300 to have the clutch installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ok i guess i will take it back to the shop so they can check it out.
my quesions is, is the fork(things circled in red suppose to be where the yellow circle is?
also is that ring in the yellow circle, that is at an angle, is that the snap ring?
 

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You guys all forgot to mention Clutch SLAVE cylinder...sometimes that could be the culprit too. The fork may seem to move fine but maybe not enough, find the travel specs on the fork. My All Trac got it bad though, I replaced the Master AND slave cylinder and it still would not go into gear, so it leads me to believe its something internal in the clutch. But a SPEC stage II is going in yay! OT sorry.
 

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hkspower said:
your snap ring popped off on the inside of your pressure plate if you closely the hub is moving but your pressure plate is not. youll need to pull down the trans.
buddy just put in his spec 3 and had the exact same problem. he doesnt want to drop it and put it together just for it to happen again. what would cause it to pop out and what can you do to prevent it?

thanks

dave
 

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Discussion Starter #18
yea really! i didnt expect something like this at all. im freaking bummed.
 

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Might wanna bleed lines properly once to check if lines were bled improperly when clutch was installed. Just simple check before chasing expensive things.
 

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Yup, that is a failed snap-ring :( That floating washers should be firmly clamped between the release hub collar (right in front of the fork) and the inner race of the ToB. Seeing that they are separated by over an inch is not good news.

If you want additional confirmation. Unbolt the slave cyl and play with the fork by hand. That sliding hub is supposed to draw the ToB out with it.

Please ignore all the chatter about bleeding this and that. You need to pull the tranny/clutch off and replace whatever is broken.

Good luck!
 
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