Steve Jarvis said:
The connector is probably fine, but the filter itself my be too small. The issue is passing enough air through a restriction (the filter element) to keep the 3" pipe full of air. You need a lot of surface area on a filter to do this (and air space to supply it). Given that the filter is enclosed, the filter my be to small just so the overall dimensions will be reasonable. I know the stock airbox doesn't have enough volume at BPU levels, because I have seen it on the dyno. Remove the lid and pick up about 10rwhp. If the stock airbox doesn't supply enough volume at BPU, I doubt the filter you have will. Try calling the manufacturer and finding out how much hp the filter should be able to support. If they have done proper testing they should be able to answer that question.
I'm believe the "MAX AIR" offers advantages over anything else on the market or I wouldn't recommend it. Of course I wouldn't make it if I didn't feel that way.
As soon as I get the opportunity I will make one for my SP63.
Later, Steve
I am not going to make this comment as an argument, because I agree with you 99%. My only comment is that it is a 4" K&N element, and in the configuration I have it in, the area behind the air dam is the real air box. The front of the cone filter is 4" large and has a bullet shaped 'air straightener' dealy. I feel that the flow coming through that 3" inlet is as voluminous (as it is coming from a high pressure area in the air dam) as the air that seeps throught the headlight assembly and other cracks to make it into the area that the max air box creates. Now, if you ran the Max Air system with a headlight removed, forget about it, hands down best...
Definite props to the max air, I am certain that it is a legitimate hp gain, especially on a turbocharged car in hot weather. Again, I don't make the above comments because I think I have reinvented the mousetrap.