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I need some more help guys. I've gotten down to my control arms on the driver's side and removed them in order to put R2 Racing Urethane bushings in them. The problem I have found with some of them is that the ball joints or bearings or whatever you want to call them ( I have them circled in green in the pictures below ) are bad. On some of them, when I move them they just come right back to the center by themselves. They are loose as hell and don't stay where they are moved. Two of them still seem tight, and one seems a little loose but not too bad. I really don't know how loose is bad enough to require replacement. A friend of mine took one of the good ones up to our High School Vo-Tech automotive area where they have a press and pressed in one of the urethane bushings (I have it circled in blue). While he was at it, he showed his instructor one of the bad ones and the instructor said that the ball joints are built into the arms and that in order to fix the problem I would have to buy whole new arms. When I heard this, I did not want to rush into a money pit of buying all new arms and so I got on here and started searching about control arms and their ball joints. I can't seem to find a clear answer on whether or not the ball joints/bearings can be replaced separately or if the whole arm has to be replaced. It seems like some say yes they can and some say no they can't and some say the lower arms can but the upper arms cannot. So, to get to my point, can someone that knows about this give me a final answer - CAN BALL JOINTS BE REPLACED SEPARATELY TO SAVE MY BUDGET? IF SO, IN WHICH ARMS AND HOW DO I GO ABOUT GETTING IT DONE? ALSO, HOW LOOSE IS BAD ENOUGH TO REQUIRE ME TO REPLACE THEM? Thanks guys, I appreciate the help. Here are the pictures:




 

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The control arms on the N/A are known to have issues. You have to replace the whole arm as was indicated.

Please post N/A questions to the N/A forum.
 

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I`ve replaced these bushings at the rear with the R2 kit just lately too. Most important question is were you hearing a knock in your suspension? I was and it`s still there, so i`m suspecting those ball-joints. Unfortunately i`ve been told it`s a complete arm replacement, you can`t do the ball-joints on their own. :dunno:
 

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Yeah, I have the same problem. :-/

Thanks for the info Quick. But what makes the twin turbo's control arms any different?
 

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Yes the TT arms are different. I have a 94 NA. At 100K I started to get the squeaks from hell. I researched this whole issue with Toyota dealer. The TT arms were beefier than the NAs so the bushings last longer. In fact the OEM replacement control arm is now the TT control arm and carries the same part number. I had 2 new controls replaced and NO MORE SQUEAKS.
 

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same here and mine r NA and about to replace all poly bushing..now u got me wonder bro.sigh hope my ball joint is still good.anyway is ur TT or NA?
 

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Geddy Lee, you wouldn't happen to remember how much those cost, would you? And what options do we have for poly bushings? Thanks.
 

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Right upper and lower control arms FRONT
48610-19025 UPR LIST 268.65 COST 200.33
48068-14080 LWR LIST 252.88 COST 187.00

Left upper and lower control arms FRONT
48630-19025 UPR LIST 268.65 COST 200.33
48069-14080 LWR LIST 252.88 COST 187.00

Right upper control arm, REAR
48770-19025 LIST 298.09 COST 220.43

Left upper control arm, REAR
48790-19025 list 298.09 cost 220.43

Right and left lower arm front, REAR
48710-14110 list 108.72 cost 81.07 ea x 2

Right lower control arm rear , REAR
48730-14030 list 175.36 cost 129.68


Left lower control arm rear, REAR
48740-14060 list 175.36 cost 129.68

Right and Left lower control arm front , REAR
48780-14030 list 101.74 cost 75.24 ea x 2

There are 12 total front and rear, the arms come with the bushings. That comes to $1787.5 + shipping.

I saw someone that was selling a complete kit (used from a TT) for 500 a month ago. I'm not sure if it ever sold. I never realized the control arms were that expensive. And this is Curt's pricing too, so imaging how much it would cost from the dealer.
 

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The only possible alternative would be to fabricate your own control arms from chromoly, using the MKIII balljoint as a component, they bolt on to the arms on that car, same taper on spindle as MKIV.
The other way is to just buy a pair every few months on a high mile car that needs them.
You can test them by compressing them with a large set of Channelock pliers and check for movement.
 

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Bump for question: Do they need to be pressed? I saw him mention something about it and I just want a 100% yes or no. I bent the shit out of my lower right control arm and I'm about to replace it.

After seeing this it looks like I might want to do them all. :( At least I get dealer cost at Toyota. :mad:
 

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thirtysix_36 said:
you will need to take it to someone with a large Press
Not according to the manual. You just need a ball joint seperator. Please describe where you need a press... 'cause I sure as heck don't see it.
 

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x.x Okay someone make up their mind; I don't want to pull this shit out at the shop and end up with my car on the lift for 2 days.

I have the dealership manual for the 97 but I don't feel like trying to navigate through all of it because it's so damn unorganized, so thanks Quick for that link.
 

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I got a rear set of R2 poly bushes.
The rear control arms were removed, then had to be taken to a guy with a press to remove and fit those new ones.
Course you can try and hammer them out and in, that`s if you don`t care about damaging the arm
 

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thirtysix_36 said:
I got a rear set of R2 poly bushes.
The rear control arms were removed, then had to be taken to a guy with a press to remove and fit those new ones.
Course you can try and hammer them out and in, that`s if you don`t care about damaging the arm

Ahh if you are going to replace the bushings here's the solution:
- use a propane torch to burn the old bushings out
- use the appropriate sized socket as a drift to press the new ones in yourself

...you shouldn't need a "press" if you do it this way -- which is how I have done it on other cars.
 
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